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2x4 blocking


blobula's Avatar
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08-13-16, 09:50 PM   #1  
2x4 blocking

What is the strongest method to use when attaching 2x4 blocking between ceiling floor joists that don't have a lip on them? Should they be spaced 16" or 24" on center?

Would framing nails and liquid nails be adequate? Or would I need to also attached a furring strip with the blocking resting on it?

It will need to support 2 layers of 5/8s drywall hanging from hat channel to decouple from ceiling joists.

 
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08-13-16, 10:11 PM   #2  
I'm not the pro here..... just thinking out loud.

Why couldn't you fasten the hat channel directly to the bottom of the floor joists.... why the need for blocking ?

The hat channel is a solid mounting method. I'm not sure how much noise decoupling it's going to offer.

Why the double 5/8" on the ceiling ? Fire stop ?


~ Pete ~

 
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08-14-16, 04:17 AM   #3  
If you are talking about the parallel end of the room, where there are no joists to attach anything, lay your 2x4's flat and either screw or nail them to the adjacent joist and the top plate. This will give you adequate space to nail your channel. Doubling the ceiling rock won't help much with sound as it will vibrate through both sheets equally. Decoupling a single sheet may prove to be more efficient and a whole lot less work and weight for the channel.

 
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08-14-16, 06:00 AM   #4  
This is a theater room.

Attaching the hat channel to the joist will still allow vibrations from the room to be spread up into the joist. Since my ceiling are a little over 7ft attaching blocking recessed a bit up in the joist will allow me to attach clips and hat channel giving about 1/2" of space between the drywall and joist.

For soundproofing it's the standard for two layers of 5/8 drywall with greenglue between.

 
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08-14-16, 07:01 AM   #5  
So you are looking for clearance for your fasteners for a tighter fit. Yes, you can offset your perlins between the joists to accommodate the fasteners. Screw or nail them in from the joist side at an angle for an easier attachment. Toe nailing a loose board is a PITA. Put your screw into the joist and drive it into the perlin.

 
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08-14-16, 12:30 PM   #6  
Would using a Kreg joint be ok since its drilled and fastened at an angle?

 
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08-14-16, 01:20 PM   #7  
No need to go to that expense and trouble. It is framing, not a cabinet. You will be holding up light weight panels, not heavier items, so the nails/screws I suggested will be fine.

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