Side of mobile home bulging outward

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  #1  
Old 10-05-16, 02:30 PM
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Side of mobile home bulging outward

Hello,

We replaced our awning windows with American Craftsman windows last year. About a month later, the door to our mobile started to drag on the top step. Inside, I noticed a gap (about 1/2") between the toe molding and the wall. The bulging wall isn't noticeable from the outside, but I know that something is different because of the gap and the door dragging slightly.

Does anyone have any idea how to correct this situation. We are looking for the right way to do it, not a band-aid fix. Thank you for any help you could give us.
 
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  #2  
Old 10-05-16, 02:38 PM
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Have you put a 4' level on the wall? How old is the MH? are all the floors in good shape?
some pics might be helpful - http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
  #3  
Old 10-05-16, 04:07 PM
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We replaced our awning windows with American Craftsman windows last year.
Was this done by pros? Were the windows the same size? Was it verified there was an adequate header for the new windows? My first thought was the old windows acted as your header. A window used primarily in stick built houses needs an added header to reinforce the opening. Header removed and wall bowing/sagging from weight of roof.
 
  #4  
Old 10-05-16, 05:49 PM
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Thank you for your ideas. The mobile was built in '64, but it's been stable until this. It's in need of updating, and this was the first project we undertook. We used a person who is not with a professional company, but who does all the work in this retirement settlement. He's replaced lots of windows for lots of people here. The floor is in good shape, it's just that the wall, at least as seen from the inside, is bowing. I can't imagine he wouldn't add a header if it was needed, but maybe that's the problem. I'm now worried that because of the sagging, the wall will separate from the roof where it intersects.
 
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Old 10-05-16, 06:50 PM
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So far every post is addressing the windows, when it is the door that is having the problem. Are there any problems with the windows? There aren't too many headers in a mobile home, especially built in the 60's. Post some pictures of the door, inside, outside, top, bottom, latch hing area so we can see what you see.
 
  #6  
Old 10-05-16, 08:17 PM
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Any mobile home I've seen made that long ago had 2 X 2 in the outside walls, particle board floors.
We have no pictures,
No way should the stoop, deck, patio have been built that close to any door opening.
The windows have 0 to due with the dood dragging.
 
  #7  
Old 10-06-16, 03:19 AM
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There were MHs built in that time frame with 2x4 exterior walls but it would help to know what you have. Most MHs have 5/8" particle board floors As long as the floor is solid along the wall we can rule that part out. Is the ceiling line still straight? or does it sag?

Also check the framing along the door for water damage. I assume you've already checked for loose screws holding the door/frame in place.
 
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Old 10-06-16, 06:27 AM
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Are you in a part of Virginia where you have to also expect a snow load on that roof ?

As a Real Estate Broker, I've seen some of these mobile homes tolerate the weight of several tons of snow and ice when the walls haven't been compromised; but when they've been altered, that can be the kiss of death, and they'll collapse under the additional burden.

Up here, all such roofs must be shoveled to minimize that weight, and many people build a pitched metal roof to guarantee that the snow and ice will quickly slide off . . . . but that doesn't always work if there are obstructions.

It's always something !
 
  #9  
Old 10-08-16, 11:55 AM
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The mobile home is in Florida. I am not there right now, and I don't have pictures to post, unfortunately. The problem is not with the door itself. The door is a symptom of the overall problem. The door started dragging within a week of the window install. At exactly this time the wall pulled away from the toe molding as well. The wall bulging is not visible to the casual observer. It's only by the door and the toe molding that you can tell something is wrong. I guess I'm wondering if I need to prop the wall up from underneath the mobile, or tear it all out. I don't understand how to pull the wall back to being vertical.
 
  #10  
Old 10-08-16, 12:01 PM
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It sounds like when the windows were installed the framing got knocked loose, probably due to rot at the bottom of the wall. You'll need to double check the floor to make sure it's solid. Also look for any signs of mold or water stains near the bottom of the wall. The odds are support from below the MH won't help. The floor generally consists of 2x6s cantilevered off of 2 steel beams. The exterior wall is constructed on top of those 2x6s and the particle board that covers it.
 
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Old 10-12-16, 07:21 PM
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Thank you very much for your suggestion. I will try to look into this. There are also alot of termite problems in Florida, but we try to be on top of that. The floor has always felt very solid to us, but I will try to study this situation a little more when I get back down there.

Thank you again.
 
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Old 10-13-16, 04:52 AM
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I had a MH in central fla for 13 yrs. While termites are a big concern, they aren't as common in a MH because of the raised floor/structure [compared to the houses on slabs] Water intrusion from the roof and along the exterior walls is fairly common. Particle board is very susceptible to water damage and it isn't uncommon for the sub floor along the exterior walls to need replacing. You can usually check the floor by stepping next to the wall or taking a screwdriver and poking at it. To check the walls you'll may need to remove or at least loosen the wall covering.
 
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Old 10-13-16, 05:28 AM
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Mobile home windows are usually ell shaped metal frames secured with screws every four inches. They give a lot of rigidity. Windows for stick built houses don't. If I was hired my first action would be to remove the wall paneling in the window area to see what was there. But of course that's just me I could be wrong.
 
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Old 10-15-16, 04:51 PM
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OK, thank you very much for this advice. I guess I should also ask the installer himself what he thinks is the problem, although I doubt I'll get a good answer.
 
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Old 10-15-16, 05:03 PM
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I guess I should also ask the installer himself what he thinks is the problem, although I doubt I'll get a good answer.
Depends on how knowledgeable and/or honest he is but a start. Run an internet search for mobile home repair services in your area. There might be a company that specializes in it. Here's one link from a quick search but I know nothing about the company. Example NOT a recommendation: http://www.bestmobilehomerepair.com/...lysford-22958/
 
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Old 10-16-16, 04:21 AM
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Do the new windows protrude further than the brickmold past the exterior siding? Does the roof overhang the top of the windows, if not, did they install flashing over the top of the window or just caulk it? Is the interior casing flush over the interior walls or does the whole window frame protrude into the living space? Do you expect to be back down there anytime soon?
 
  #17  
Old 10-16-16, 12:22 PM
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Mark I can't imagine brickmold around a mobile home window. Here if it was a stick built house replacement window it would just be 1x4 over the nailing flange. (Nailing flange on top of the MH skin and 1x4 on top of nailing flange.)

Side note: In my area brickmold is only used on brick veneer houses. Never on homes with wood or other siding. For those it is 1x4 around doors and windows.
 
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Old 10-16-16, 02:42 PM
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Ray, while brickmold is not the norm, unless you specifically have the window manufacturer leave it off, they will come with the mold. I order mine with j channel mold, which will resemble brick mold but will capture the vinyl siding. The molding is thinner front to back than brick mold.
 
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Old 10-16-16, 03:16 PM
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The only windows I'm really familiar with are the ready made windows from BigBox and those I've never seen with anything attached. I just figured since it was a mobile home they bought from BigBox.
 

Last edited by ray2047; 10-16-16 at 05:27 PM.
  #20  
Old 10-16-16, 03:40 PM
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Irregardless of whether or not it is actual brickmold, there has to be something to close up the exterior edges of the new windows as they wouldn't install the same as a MH window. The simple thing would be to caulk the top of that molding but unless the MH has an overhang, caulking will fail sooner or later.
 
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Old 10-16-16, 04:57 PM
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Irregardless
Joel??!!!

I agree. I see a need for pictures, which are long overdue. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...your-post.html
 
  #22  
Old 10-18-16, 01:40 PM
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Thank you to everyone who has responded. I hate to say it, but I think they used alot of caulk.

When I get to Florida, I will send pictures. As I mentioned earlier, I am not in Florida, therefore I cannot send pictures, because I don't have any. I will be there in December.

Thank you again.
 
  #23  
Old 10-18-16, 02:59 PM
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They should have inserted flashing under the MH siding and over the top window trim but I suspect they just caulked the top The problem with caulk is it will fail sooner or later and allow water in. Were the new windows the same size as the old or did they have to cut some of the wall framing?
 
  #24  
Old 10-22-16, 06:47 PM
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The windows were measured to be the same size as the old windows. They did not cut any framing, that I know of (!).
 
  #25  
Old 10-22-16, 08:30 PM
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We are at a stand still here with out pictures. When you can get pictures we may have more suggestions but you will need to be on site to check out what we ask. http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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