Loft In Detached Garage, 19FT Span

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  #1  
Old 03-16-17, 09:09 PM
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Loft In Detached Garage, 19FT Span

I'm planning a loft in my detached garage and I'd like to run my plans by someone to make sure I'm not too far off base. Ideally I'd like to do this with as few supports in the middle as I can, I'll be spanning 19' 5" max unsupported. Coming out 11' from the back wall. I plan to use this space for general storage, nothing too out of the ordinary.

My garage is framed with 2x6 studs which I'd like to hang headers on, I plan to use 2x12 lumber, this looks like it should be okay but I'm new to framing and I'd like to double check. My joists are spaced 16" on center. I'd like to place a staircase as well (as in the pics below) and support that edge with a 4x4 to the ground. Perhaps I can get by with 2x10?

I modeled this in SolidWorks just to get an idea. Attached a 3D pdf in a zip if you'd like to take a look, my stairs are a little funky as I haven't worked out the details yet so don't pay too close attention to that. Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

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Last edited by Temp08; 03-16-17 at 09:29 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-16-17, 09:58 PM
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Looking at it more, if I orient the studs the other way it seems I can use 2x8 joists, 16" on center. If so, can I use a 2x8 for the rim joist there, even though it will be spanning 15'?

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  #3  
Old 03-16-17, 10:54 PM
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I'm not the pro here but just looking at your diagram.

The second one makes more sense but you're going to need a steel beam or lvl (laminated veneer lumber) setting on a post at each side of the garage for the main carrier beam.

A product like Versa Lam from Boise
VersaLam/US_West_VL_SpecGuide.pdf
 
  #4  
Old 03-16-17, 10:59 PM
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I was planning to attach the joist header to the wall studs in the back, and rim joists to the studs on the side. Will this not be sufficient? Also it looks like I'll need to use a 2x12 for that floating header, plan on notching a 6x6 post and bolting it to that instead of that 4x4.
 
  #5  
Old 03-17-17, 01:02 AM
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Double up a couple of them and add to the top of the landing and you will be all set, 2x12 will be incredibly strong, 2x10 is still excellent for a light storage area.

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  #6  
Old 03-17-17, 03:08 AM
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I think a pair of 2x12's will be sufficient. Plan on the "extraordinary" load, however. Just because you plan on putting Christmas lights up there won't preclude the use, later on, for storing much heavier stuff. Make sure the right side is supported properly, too. It will require more than a stud attachment. Maybe double or triple king/jack within the stud cavity.
 
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Old 03-17-17, 09:44 AM
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Maybe double or triple king/jack within the stud cavity
So I was actually thinking about doing this along the back wall too, instead of putting a 2x8 header across that whole wall, placing 2x6 jack studs for my 2x8 joists to rest on, this would be much stronger than the header/joist hanger combo.

This is what I'm planning for that middle support, a 6x6 notched for the 2x12 and 2x8.

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  #8  
Old 03-17-17, 10:03 AM
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I would do exactly what Marq and Chandler suggested. Ledger and joist hangers in back, double 2x12 in front... right side of it will be alongside your wall studs and supported underneath. Double the joist alongside the stairs and across the front of the landing if the landing is 4' or more. 6x6 post.
 
  #9  
Old 03-17-17, 03:46 PM
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Here's a question, how best to attach that back ledger to the studs? I'm leaning towards cutting a let-in in the studs and nailing in place so the ledger has something to rest on, but I've also seen people use bolts, both of which would seem to compromise the studs. Thoughts?
 
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Old 03-17-17, 03:55 PM
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I believe your walls were 2x6 so a series of 1/4 or 5/16 x 6 lag bolts will be over kill. My attic has less structure and unless you are storing many many engine blocks up there will have no issues.
 
  #11  
Old 03-17-17, 03:55 PM
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Ledgerloks............................
 
  #12  
Old 03-17-17, 05:10 PM
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How about this attach point? Here I have one 12x2 notched through and a 2x8 notched on the other side. Perhaps I should notch to fit both 2x12's and nail the 2x8 to the exterior of the 2x6.

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  #13  
Old 03-17-17, 05:39 PM
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No nails. Use Ledgerloks as XSleeper suggested.
 
  #14  
Old 03-17-17, 05:49 PM
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Like this then? I assume I'm nailing the 2x12's together along their length, with ledgerloks into the 6x6?

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  #15  
Old 03-17-17, 06:44 PM
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Double the 2x8 as Marq suggested. It holds the weight of the entire landing and stair area and needs to be doubled. Notch the 6x6 so that both the double 2x12 and the double 2x8 rest on top of a notch. Cut the back member of the double 2x12 1 1/2" shorter than the front one. Cut the back member of the 2x8 1 1/2" shorter than the front one. That forms an interlocking corner that could be nailed together.

Your 6x6 will have a 2 1/2 square of wood left on the back corner that has not been notched. Use 4 ledgerloks to secure both headers to it. (Normally you don't predrill for ledgerloks but in this piece you should... ensure that your ledgerloks are going to miss each other where they criss-cross.) Predrill only the holes in the 2 1/2" square part... that will suck everything together tight when you put the ledgerloks in from the back side.

Use ledgerloks for your ledger in back. No notch, no nails. Use joist hangers on both ends of the 2x8s. Use the ledgerloks with the big round head, they are spider drive.
 
  #16  
Old 03-17-17, 07:21 PM
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Cool, sounds like a plan, thanks

I figure on pre-drilling the other ledgerloks as well, don't want to risk splitting the framing of my shop.

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