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Sill plate and band board replacement


mossman's Avatar
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08-01-17, 08:03 AM   #1  
Sill plate and band board replacement

The exterior wall of my house was just opened up (having an attached garage addition built) and the band board and one of the two sill plates on the first floor has extensive termite damage and will need to be replaced. How involved is this and how much should I expect it to cost me? Is it a matter of installing temporary support using a header that spans the damaged area, removing the old board, installing a new, then installing short lengths of vertical studs to support the new header?

 
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Pilot Dane's Avatar
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08-01-17, 08:40 AM   #2  
It really depends on your house/site and how extensive the damage is. In many cases it's not that bad a job. Sometimes I'll nail or screw a board horizontally across the studs on the outside of the house and lift/support the house temporarily from that or go underneath and jack up on the floor joists. Then cut out and replace the damage sill plate. Studs I usually cut off the damaged end and insert fresh wood and nail "splints" onto the sides to support the joint. Generally it's a half day job.

 
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08-01-17, 09:54 AM   #3  
Do the floor joists run perpendicular or parallel to the damage? If parallel it is a little more difficult to jack it up from underneath but if a gable end it may not have a lot of load.

Is there a door or window in this area that may have generated some moisture?

Bud

 
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08-02-17, 11:18 AM   #4  
There is no window directly above--it was a covered porch. The porch slab was removed last week and that exposed the damage (the porch slab butted up against the sill plates and band board). I-joists run perpendicular to the damage and it is not the gable end. It's about an 8' section that is damaged, with half of a split staircase and roof supported above (home has vaulted ceiling so no second floor structure above). Red arrows point to damaged area. Apparently the previous owner had a wood pile stacked in front of that window, which was infested with termites. If it isn't obvious, there are two sill plates with a 2x10 (maybe 2x12) band board on top, and the top surface of the porch slab sat right underneath the siding. Wouldn't it have made sense to put some sort of barrier between the band board and concrete when the porch was originally poured, or is it generally okay to pour concrete up against a permanentwood structure?

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Last edited by mossman; 08-02-17 at 11:40 AM.
 
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08-03-17, 07:59 AM   #5  
Just noticed there doesn't appear to be any sill sealer. Should I run a bead of caulk along the sill plate on the outside? And would it be a good idea to treat the soil for termites in that area as a precautionary measure? The new slab will be about even with the sill plate and that wall will be covered with drywall, so it will be concealed.

 
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08-07-17, 08:05 AM   #6  
I took a closer look over the weekend, and the damage extends upwards to the wall studs. So the top sill plate (there are two on the foundation wall), band board, first floor sill, and the lower few inches of each wall stud will need to be replaced.

Pilot Dane, is this what you're suggesting for the wall studs?

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08-08-17, 08:58 AM   #7  
Here's a cross section of what I'm dealing with (not to scale). Lumber in red is rotted and needs to be replaced, as well as a few inches of the wall studs. As you can see, that wall supports the stair landing as well as the roof above. What's the best way to brace the wall in order to R&R the damaged wood? The distance from the top of the foundation wall (gray) to the roof is 12 feet.

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08-08-17, 09:10 AM   #8  
Here are a few possibilities I came up with. I've never done this before so I'm kind of clueless.

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Last edited by mossman; 08-08-17 at 10:46 AM.
 
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08-10-17, 08:39 AM   #9  
Think I came up with a much simpler solution. There is about a 4" lip on the interior of the wall containing the damage. Seems like I could nail a couple 2x10's into the stud wall above the damage then jack/support the wall, roof, etc. by wedging a few 4x4's between the foundation wall and 2x10s. Like so:

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08-14-17, 07:09 PM   #10  
I have the old rotted beam removed and the wall supported. Things are going much smoother than I anticipated. I first cut all the nails from the studs/sole plate and the studs were surprisingly loose. Then I supported the wall by nailing a 2x8 across all the studs and supported the board at both ends with two 2x4s.

I'm making the new beam this evening. I have the 2x10s sandwiched together with 1/2" ply between using liquid nails, and I nailed the beam together using three vertical 3-1/2" 16d nails every 16" inches. Question is, should I nail from both sides, or is one side sufficient considering I used liquid nails?

Also, what is the best way to attach the new beam to the existing beam? I planned on using a Simpson plate.


Last edited by mossman; 08-14-17 at 08:30 PM.
 
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