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shoddy stair nose making completion of flooring installation difficult

shoddy stair nose making completion of flooring installation difficult

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  #1  
Old 06-08-18, 11:39 AM
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shoddy stair nose making completion of flooring installation difficult

I am close to completing installation of flooring but am puzzled about how to deal with a shoddy stair nose situation from the original construction of the home. As you can see in the photo, the riser on the top step and the nose have not been stained like the steps below. Originally, all steps were covered with carpet and were not stained. Later, I removed carpet from all steps and stained them, but carpet remained on the floor at top of the stairway and continued to drape down over that top stairway runner. So, after removing all carpet to install new flooring, the unstained riser and nose were exposed.

Now, I am see that the riser is split all the way across the bottom of it. Perhaps that is not an issue as far as completing my flooring installation, but it will at least need to be somehow repaired for a better appearance now that it is exposed.

My main concern now is how to finish my flooring installation above the existing stair nose. The existing nose slopes slightly downward toward the rounded end and it is not flush with the sub-floor and that unevenness is worse at the right end than the left end.

I am inclined to think replacing the nose would be the best option. I do not know how the nose is attached. I see what seems to be the top edge of 3 screws screwed in at an angle. Can anyone shed some light on how stair noses are normally attached?
 
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  #2  
Old 06-08-18, 02:14 PM
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I've watched some youtube videos since posting this topic here. Since the flooring I installed is 3/8" engineered wood (Strand Woven Bamboo Harvest), a nose such as Strand Woven Bamboo Harvest 3/8 in. Thick x 2-3/4 in. Wide x 94 in. Length Hardwood Stair Nose Molding seems to be a good match for my flooring.

So, I guess the question becomes, how to install this nose molding on top of the existing nose? I believe the answer is to trim off the rounded end of the existing nose molding and, since it is not level, use some pieces of wood shims under the new 3/8" nose molding to get it level with the flooring.

I am also thinking I could also put another riser board next to the damaged existing one. The additional board could be a thin one; it's main purpose would be cosmetic.
 
  #3  
Old 06-08-18, 03:56 PM
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The total amount your stair nose protrudes from the riser cannot exceed 1 1/4. So if that nosing you linked to is, say 1/2"... you would cut the bullnose off your existing stair nose and leave no more than 3/4" projecting square past the riser. Since 3/4+1/2 is 1 1/4, you would still be ok. If you want to be safe, cut it back so you have 1/2" left.
 
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Old 06-08-18, 05:04 PM
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I was not aware of the 1 1/4" rule. And, I see that the noses on all my stairway step extend about 2", so they are not in compliance. Well, I can at least get this one into compliance.

I think I'll cut off the existing bullnose back to 3/4" or shorter, per your advise, and shoot for a total overhang of not more than 1 1/4". I can at least get this bullnose into compliance. And, I'll probably do some shimming, as previously stated, to create better support for the new nose.
 
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Old 06-09-18, 04:35 PM
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After trying to visualize - keep in mind this nose will be at the top of a stairway, not the bottom - how this might look upon completion, I concluded that the appearance of the new nose, which will overlay a portion of the old nose (after it's trimmed), will look odd from a viewpoint at the bottom of the stairway. I'm talking about a portion of the old nose board that will extend below the new nose. Don't know what to do about that other than staining the exposed portion of the old nose board to try to get the color to match the new nose.
 
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Old 06-09-18, 09:11 PM
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Well, the alternative may be a bit more work than you bargained for, and may seem equally odd.

Cut the top tread's bullnose back until you expose the back edge of your riser. Remove and replace the riser with a stained board that is wide enough (1 1/8" wider than the existing one?) to cover the cut edge of the existing tread, then apply your stair nose molding to cap the top of it. The nosing would be minimal... not even close to 1 1/4".

You could taper the new riser so that it is 1/4" wider on the right side to more closely match your subfloor. Then your shims you glue down would just fill in the space between the new riser and old subfloor.
 
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