How Do We Add Structurally Sound Faux Stud for a Single Stud TV Mount?
#1
How Do We Add Structurally Sound Faux Stud for a Single Stud TV Mount?
Hello,
We are preparing to install a single stud TV mount, (Kanto PS300). However the ideal place to put it (visually for the room), lies between two studs.
We want to open up the wall and frame in a faux 24" vertical stud, securely suspended between the real ones, then attach the TV mount wall plate assembly to the faux stud.
So, how do we add a structurally sound faux stud for a single stud TV mount?
We have a handyman coming over who says he can do this but are looking for tips/best practices, (proper blocking/bracing, etc.) from people who know about framing, so we can make sure the job is done right.
We have searched for how to do this but have not come up with much, but it could be that we lack the correct terminology to search for. Is there a name for what we are trying to do here?
Any help you can provide would be appreciated.
Thanks!
We are preparing to install a single stud TV mount, (Kanto PS300). However the ideal place to put it (visually for the room), lies between two studs.
We want to open up the wall and frame in a faux 24" vertical stud, securely suspended between the real ones, then attach the TV mount wall plate assembly to the faux stud.
So, how do we add a structurally sound faux stud for a single stud TV mount?
We have a handyman coming over who says he can do this but are looking for tips/best practices, (proper blocking/bracing, etc.) from people who know about framing, so we can make sure the job is done right.
We have searched for how to do this but have not come up with much, but it could be that we lack the correct terminology to search for. Is there a name for what we are trying to do here?
Any help you can provide would be appreciated.
Thanks!
#2
If you are going to open up the wall you would place framing horizontally between the existing studs and toenail (or screw) it into place with a pair of fasteners on each end.
It's called "blocking". You probably don't need anything vertical, just one or two horizontal pieces. If you do need something vertical due to the way the mount has to attach, you would put the vertical piece in between the upper and lower pieces of horizontal blocking, if that makes sense.
It's called "blocking". You probably don't need anything vertical, just one or two horizontal pieces. If you do need something vertical due to the way the mount has to attach, you would put the vertical piece in between the upper and lower pieces of horizontal blocking, if that makes sense.
#3
the ideal place to put it (visually for the room), lies between two studs.
I have not looked the model you indicate but the solution is simple, get a mount that goes across two studs and mount your TV in the middle and your good, no wall needs to be opened!
#4
I like what Xsplr and Marq said. But you could also mount a piece of wood across two studs on the surface of the wall and in turn mount the bracket to that. Now you don't need to open the wall or buy a new bracket. And the added feature is it can easily be removed with only two or four small holes to be spackled and paint touch-up.
edit...If you go with my suggestion I would get a nice piece of hard maple, stained and installed with lag bolts counter sunk and capped.
edit...If you go with my suggestion I would get a nice piece of hard maple, stained and installed with lag bolts counter sunk and capped.
#5
Member
XSleeper's is the correct way to do it.
Mounting a 1X6 or 8 or a 2X6 or 8 about 3 foot long to the back of the drywall also works as it distributes the load over a larger area of the drywall
Or a 3/4 inch piece of plywood cut to just under the cavity width also about 3 feet long.
This means a little less drywall fixing as you just need a rectangular cut to slide the backer in.
Does take a little more thought though on how to do it.
I usually end up with strings attach to it to pull it up get it close to the drywall so a drywall screw can grab it.
Also help to ensure you do not loose it in the cavity.
Norm201's is probably the easiest.
A 3/4 or 1 inch piece of plywood with some edge trim to make it look purty should do the job.
Do not use particle board!!!
Mounting a 1X6 or 8 or a 2X6 or 8 about 3 foot long to the back of the drywall also works as it distributes the load over a larger area of the drywall
Or a 3/4 inch piece of plywood cut to just under the cavity width also about 3 feet long.
This means a little less drywall fixing as you just need a rectangular cut to slide the backer in.
Does take a little more thought though on how to do it.
I usually end up with strings attach to it to pull it up get it close to the drywall so a drywall screw can grab it.
Also help to ensure you do not loose it in the cavity.
Norm201's is probably the easiest.
A 3/4 or 1 inch piece of plywood with some edge trim to make it look purty should do the job.
Do not use particle board!!!