Repairing a water damaged engineered floor joist

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Old 03-24-20, 09:22 AM
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Repairing a water damaged engineered floor joist

my floor tile was cracking around the bathtub and went to replace subfloor. Once subfloor removed I noticed a floor truss was water damaged (GP WI 20 11-7/8). On further inspection the truss was damaged on the top. Where the joist meets the sill plate there is a small amount of twisting noted where it nails to the subfloor .

I know the joist needs to be replaced but instead of an i joist could not a 2x12x16 be used to span the area and sister it with the engineered joist? or just place the new 2 x 12 x 16 and not sister to the old joist ?

the sill plate has at least 4 inches depth to support new joist, on the other end is a beam with 1.5 " on top of it to support new joist. I could add another 2x12 to give it 3" support
 
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Old 03-24-20, 09:33 AM
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Water stained, yes, water damaged I would question.

The flange looks dark but the web looks fine, unless your seeing something more telling it looks fine to me!
 
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Old 03-24-20, 10:12 AM
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I don't see any problem with it, it looks like a stain. I doubt its even soft. Or are you talking about the top picture? Is that an i-joist running right through the middle of the photo with the web totally gone?
 
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Old 03-24-20, 10:12 AM
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it is about 1/2 depth of damage at the top but all damage for about for about 24 inches total. on the top pic u can see the crack in the wood , Only the first pic is damage the other 2 are were I plan to put beam.
 
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Old 03-24-20, 12:50 PM
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This is where a picture just doesn't tell the entire story. Crack is no issue, if the wood is soft and mushy then I'd just take out and rebuild that area vs removing/sistering.
 
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Old 03-24-20, 01:29 PM
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ok my pics weren't that great at showing the damage . Let me try again
 
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Old 03-24-20, 04:49 PM
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Still doesn't look that bad. The "crack" is a fingerjoint seam in the engineered material. While it takes a structural engineer to recommend repairs to such things, I would suggest that simply gluing and screwing (or bolting) a new piece of OSB or plywood onto each side of the existing web across the affected area. (Like a giant squash block)

The patch could be cut from a 4x8 or 4x9 sheet and so it could be as long as you can reasonably fit into that area and work on. It should fit snug between the top and bottom chords but should not be so tight that you have to force it.
 
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Old 03-24-20, 05:00 PM
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Not trying to convince you if you feel it's needed but I agree Ive seen worse lumber used.

Back to original question, is remaining wood solid?
 
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Old 03-29-20, 08:45 AM
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I was able to find engineering specs and repair data. This was my fix. In addition once done I poured epoxy into the area water damaged to strengthen it...all the soft wood was removed . Hope it pass the test of time

i guess the best repair would have been a been an engineered truss 3 inches from damaged one but it is special order. Figure if this gives me trouble in the future will order joist then.

The side split wasn't water damage it was the nail used when they built the house. Advantech flooring with 2" regular nails ( not ring shanked)
 
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Old 03-29-20, 08:50 AM
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yeah the remaining wood was solid no damage to web below.
 
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Old 03-29-20, 08:55 AM
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yeah finger joint damage was from whoever installed the subfloor...nail strike. I used Gorilla ultimate Construction adhesive and ring shank nails then screws.

I took 2 sheet of 15/32 structural plywood glued together and added a 2x4......... seems secure now ......
 
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