The picture is from a 10 ft by 10 ft room added to my 2 story home. Home was built in 1987. My contractor bailed on the job and left me with the mess. You are looking at an exterior wall and through that wall is my living room. I need a 32" x 80" door framed in that space preferably all the way left on the wall.. The trick for me is the ceiling joists that you see are only 7ft. How can I frame the header if the joists are set to 7ft ceilings? This was an exterior wall on my home, so it is load bearing I think.
Also, the doggie will be taken care of... her door is being moved.
You would put the header against the top plate as usual, cut the ceiling joists back and put them in joist hangers that are nailed to the header. Bottom of your header should be about 82 1/2" high as measured from the bottom edge of your bottom wall plate.
The stud left of the pet door can be your king stud that your header fastens to on the left... measure 37" to the right from the right side of left king stud, and that is where the left side of your other king stud should be. Your header will be 37" long and fit between them. After the header is in, add a 2x4 jack stud under each side of the header. Rough opening will be 34 x 82 1/2".
House: single story ranch. Built in the 1950s. Wooden main beam.
I think this is straight forward, but wanted to check before I jump into the project.
The floor on the 1st floor of our ranch slopes "up" to the main beam of the house. It is subtle, but noticeable. I've used a level on both sides of the main beam upstairs to confirm that the floor slopes "up" (lower at the exterior foundation, rising to the main beam" on both sides.
My initial resolution to this, was going to be to simply lower the columns in the basement (installing new permanent columns) to get the floor level.
However, when I check the floor joists in the basement, they somehow seem to slope the opposite direction. Higher at the exterior foundation, running down to the main beam.
Obviously if I shorten the columns, the 1st floor will level, but is there anything I'm overlooking before getting started?
Thank you.
I've got a wall where I'd like to add a pocket door for the closet (the door on the left in the photo).
I'm fairly certain this is a non-load bearing wall since it runs parallel with the attic joists above, has a pipe running through, and has the hvac vent which is a complete break in the header. But I would appreciate if you folks can confirm its non-load bearing.
As part of that I was wondering what is the diagonal board purpose which runs from lower left to upper right? Would there be any issue with just removing the left portion as the pocket door is framed in?
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01-13-21, 01:39 PM
Framing a new door in low ceilings
