I'm wondering why the connectors are nailed only into the plates but not the studs. It seems to me the nail holes are there for a reason. Should I install nails while I have the wall open or are they not necessary?
This is on a treated wood foundation; 2 x 6 studs, plywood on the outside. The house was built in 1986.
Not really sure why they used those connectors in the first place, but to answer your question, nailing into the studs would add resistance to uplift...forces trying to lift the plate up off the studs. And probably some racking resistance as well. If you live in a high wind area, tornado or hurricane area, or an earthquake prone area, then adding the nails would provide extra resistance to those forces. If you decide to do so, make sure you use the proper metal connector nails and that they are rated for use with pressure treated lumber.
That is a joist hanger. A incorrect bracket for that application. Maybe the stud was warped and they used it to help hold it straight. But, yea. Throw in some nails as long as you have the wall opened up. If you really want to do it right get the correct brackets.
I shouldn't be surprised. I've found so much stuff wrong with how this house was built, it's ridiculous.
For example, the deck ledger was attached to a cantilever, and with just a few nails and lags. The support posts were resting on patio pavers a few inches below the surface. No wonder it made horrific cracking sounds on cold nights when frost was no doubt lifting it. We're lucky it didn't blow away.
I installed new shingles a few years ago. When I removed the old starter course, the drip edge fell off, as it was only being held in place by the weight of the shingles.
I could go on.
This is how the stud to plate connections were done on the whole perimeter so it wasn't an isolated warpage problem.
I have to wonder how the inspector could have missed so many obvious issues.
I'll make corrections before I close it up. Thanks for the advice!
Simpson A34 or A35 would be the better anchor. As mentioned, anchors may not even be needed. Read the installation instructions for proper installation.
I'll have a look at the A34 & A35 brackets, thanks.
This just occurred to me: Would the plywood that is attached to the outside of the wall serve to tie everything together? Perhaps the builder merely used the joist hangers to hold the studs in position while the plywood was being nailed.
Hello, we are currently renovating a set of switchback stairs. Stairs had carpet over subfloor and decorative "end caps" on the two sides facing the living room. We removed everything down to the subfloor and plan on putting carpet back on the treads and landings. On the two sides of the stairs that face the living room the plan is to put up a decorative skirt board and trim.
The debate is what to do about the inside portion of the stairs. First and foremost, do the insides need a skirt board at all? There wasn't one in the first place and since we're putting carpet back on the stairs, I don't think there should be one. However, "That would just look weird" according to the "project manager".
If she's right, and the insides do need a skirt board, are there any tips or tricks that make the process "dummy proof"? Read More
[color=#222222]I just purchased a house from the 1940s that has a den on a concrete slab. I’m having issues where the room smells despite carpet cleaning, odor sprays, etc and the carpet feels damp often. Also having humidity issues where I’m pulling 3-4 gallons a day out of this room even though it’s on the first level of my house, not the basement.[/color]
[color=#222222]Today I pulled up the carpet and got it out of there. The edges of the carpet stunk but nothing else really does. I cut 3 holes in the floor and from what I can tell they have tar paper over the concrete slab, normal insulation then tar paper again between the subfloor and insulation, then carpet padding and lastly carpet. I feel like I likely can’t put carpet back in this room, but where do I go from here? I want to fix the underlying issues.[/color]
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