Hi All, thanks in advance for the advice.
We are doing a mostly-gut remodel of a small townhouse. We recently removed a wall and opened the ceiling above and found that one of the floor joists for the second floor had been cut about 4-5 feet from the wall. There are some wood scraps inserted into the gap, maybe to hold the wiring up?
The other floor joists all extend from one side of the room to the other, and are pocketed into the brick walls on both sides. I'd like to replace the missing section of joist and sister it to another board, but hesitating because I'm confused by the fact that there is no existing pocket for the end of the missing section of joist to slide into. Either there was never a pocket and this floor joist was just floating in space, or someone did a very convincing brick repair where the pocket used to be, or...well, that's all I've got.
Do any of you pros know of a good reason why I shouldn't cut a pocket in that wall to insert the ends of the new boards? Does this seem like a reasonable solution? (That ductwork will be coming out as well.)
Not a fan of pocketed joists as the ends have a tendency to rot over time, but you've got what you've got. Rather than cut a new pocket to fix that joist, I'd run a doubled up 2 x 8? between the two joists on either side, close to the wall, and use a joist hanger to support the end of the repaired joist.
Would certainly be better support than what you have.
CarbideTipped Thanks for the reply! I've never owned a brick-wall home before, so I hadn't considered that the joist ends are probably just being repeatedly wetted. It does look like some of the joists in that ceiling have been replaced - maybe that's why. I like the idea of using the joist hanger instead of cutting the brick, thanks!
When I built my house in 1989 the flooring was a single sheet of 3/4 plywood on the joists. The framing crew used adhesive on the joists but applied it far in advance of placing the flooring sheets thus a poor bond was achieved. Two areas in my main bedroom squeak and I have not been able to remedy this using the special screws designed for this purpose. Also, with a finished basement ceiling below, I have no reasonable access to use shims to stop the squeaks.
Since its time to replace the carpet I am thinking of removing a portion of the carpet/padding before the carpet crew arrives and cut out the squeaky areas with a circular saw and replace those areas. I do not plan to replace full sheets of flooring. My joists are on 16" centers.
Any thoughts or suggestions to make this a success will be appreciated. I am a little concerned about weakness between the joists unless I glue/screw a support piece between the spans. Will this be necessary?
Thanks.
Read More
Remodeling my master bath and I'm [url=https://www.doityourself.com/forum/plumbing-piping/637521-swapping-tub-shower.html]swapping the tub and shower[/url]. When I pulled the old garden tub and the platform around it, I discovered that they had notched the floor joist to make room for the drain.
[img]https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.doityourselft.com-vbulletin/2000x1504/20230114_111254_15f8e086ac1cf5108d2927d1d8f8054a51369ab6.jpg[/img]
This notch is ~2.5" deep and 3.5" wide and darn near in the center of a 15' long 2x10 floor joist and will end up under the new 54" square shower. At first I didn't think much of it, but after reading up on what notches are acceptable, this one clearly is not. I don't want issues down the road with sagging and aligning the shower doors so it seems like I should sister this to strengthen it.
This addition is relatively young (2006) and while the floor isn't completely level, it doesn't seem to have sagged.
Am I right that this should be sistered and if so how far past the notch on each side should I go?Read More