I need to level the floor under the 54" square Onyx shower base I'm installing. The bathroom is large (13'x15") so I don't really want to level the entire floor. It's ~5/8" out of level, with the high point at the back wall, low point near where the door will be.
The problem is that the leveler (LevelQuick RS) requires metal lath & min of 1/2" thickness over wood. If it's 1/2" at the highest, it'll be 1 1/8" under the door. I plan on adding 1/2" plywood before putting the vinyl tile down, but that will leave ~1/2" of the leveler exposed. I can put 1/4 round around the shower pan, but that gets tricky at the rounded corner and will probably look tacky.
Can I get away with making the leveler thinner, since I'm going under a solid, 150lb, cast acrylic (or something like it) base? The bottom of the base has some small voids in it, but is mostly ground flat. Ideally I put the leveler in and feather it to nothing at the wall so that it's ~5/8" thick at the max by the door.
I don't want to cut corners and find I have an unstable base later and have to tear things out and redo them, but I'd like to avoid a bunch of exposed leveler that I need to hide later.
Lay your onyx base down, and draw a line around it. Then remove it and put a 1x4 on that line, screwed to the floor temporarily. Pour your self leveller inside that form to level just that area.
Then remove the 1x4 form and put your 1/2" plywood subfloor down around the onyx base... once your flooring is on, caulk it at the doorway.
Use a self leveller that can go to a feather edge. It's all going to be under the onyx anyway so it's not like it's going to see traffic and crumble. It's just a shim.
As you can see in the picture, I've already done most of that and I'm ready to pour. The leveler I have says it'll go to a feather edge, but it also says it needs a metal lath and a minimum of 1/2" thickness over wood.
As you said, though, I just need a shim. So I'm thinking (hoping) I can ignore those min requirements and pour thinner. Looking for the thoughts of those like you who do this often. This is my first time.
I am planning to finish my basement. I have a walkout. When framing my walls, how do I tie them in with my insulated exterior framed wall that is the walkout part? For interior I normally just do the 3 stud thing, but with this being exterior, how do I maintain the insulation and vapor barrier? I live in Minnesota.
Hi, I'm trying to finish my basement and the floor is giving trouble in one particular room (the laundry).At first, there was two water heater in the room and a workshop and there was no plan on finishing this room until I moved everything in the garage. The floor is really (really) uneven. There a slope making it in the center of the room where is the basement drain. From the center of it, there's about a 5 inch difference between the exterior wall (which is about 5 feet far). So the slope is quite "intense". From the other side the slope is about 2 inch on 7 feet distance. I'm just trying to figure the easiest way to finish it off. Any suggestion? I'm not planning to add any concrete for this project, maybe a subfloor (but how?).
Thanks.
Mathew