Douglass Fir or Engineered LSL 2x4?


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Old 02-20-23, 08:37 PM
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Douglass Fir or Engineered LSL 2x4?

I am just wrapping up my first wall in my basement. I did the standard pine studs at the local box store. Since I only have time to work on the framing an hour or two per week, and I'm very slow since this is all new to me, I'm having trouble with warping. I bought 24 studs, and after getting the 9th one in, the rest are all twisted and bent. I fought with some to get them to work but will throw a lot away.

this had me thinking, while they are more expensive, I wonder if LSL studs are better for me since it will be slow going and prone to warping since I don't get them nailed in very fast.

But my question is, are LSL studs stronger than Douglas fir studs, or are Douglass fir stronger?
any issues with using it with a green treated bottom plate?
will LSL studs warp if left sitting in an unfinished basement for a month?
 
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Old 02-20-23, 11:41 PM
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You can certainty use those engineered studs but as expensive as lumber is today I'll bet the cost will be very prohibitive. Plus those are typ used for structural applications, your just building simple non-load bearing wall, it will be overkill.

Not sure what grade of studs you purchased but even the everyday studs are usually good to use as long as you take some time to sort through them.

Using PT sill plates is perfectly fine.
 
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Old 02-21-23, 04:48 AM
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I've used LSL studs when I need them to be straight and stay straight, but as Marq1 states they are probably overkill for your basement. They are expensive, very heavy, and very hard to nail or screw into. They are stronger than SPF studs, but that's not a factor in your application. You might have better luck buying from a lumberyard, and carefully selecting the best ones you can helps, but warp and twist is pretty common with today's framing lumber. I just buy extra, choose the best for places where it matters most, and cut the worst into shorter lengths for blocking and such.
 
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Old 02-21-23, 04:56 AM
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Since you are moving so slow go buy all or most of the lumber you will need and keep the receipt. Take the wood into your basement and stand, lean or stack the wood so there is an air space around all sides of each piece. Within a few weeks you'll know which will warp and can be returned/exchanged. Then your left with only straight pieces and at a reasonable cost.
 
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Old 02-24-23, 05:56 AM
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Thanks Everyone! Yeah, they are non load bearing, but this room will double as a quasi storm shelter, definately not a fema one, just a safer place to go during a tornado, so I will have plywood on the walls too. so the added strength may help with that too I guess...

I do have an air nailer, but its a cheap one that only goes up to 90PSI, so not sure if that will work for this type of wood or not. I've also used the framing screws before, so not sure if those would make it easier or not. I also don't want the sheet rockers cussing me out for using it.

I've been buying 8 boards at a time (hard to fit many more in the car),

if LSL is left to sit around laying flat on my basement floor (there is a vapor barrier under the slab) will they warp, or do those pretty much not warp?
 
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Old 02-24-23, 06:57 AM
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I don't think they would warp, but not a bad idea to raise them off the floor a bit on scrap, or stack them on saw horses. A good framing nailer can handle them but hand nailing is a real chore. If you have doubts about your nailer, I'd buy one to try first.
 
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Old 02-24-23, 07:00 AM
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Engineered lumber is very good at remaining straight. The moisture content is manipulated during manufacturing so there isn't any more significant drying or shrinkage to occur. And, since they are made up of chipped wood there isn't a consistent grain like natural wood so there isn't much a mechanism for warping. It's really good stuff... unless it catches fire. Then you've got toxic smoke.
 
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Old 02-24-23, 07:35 AM
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Consider metal studs!
 
 

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