Converting tub to shower


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Old 05-25-24, 03:27 PM
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Converting tub to shower

Hi, Converting to a walk in shower. Not sure if I will need a shower door but will plan for it. I need to reframe the valve wall because builder did not frame to the ceiling and its an awkward dust trap as is - its just dead space behind that wall (i think thats necessary for tubs to have some room for plumbing) but I will probably not move the valve wall, just rebuild it to the ceiling. Also need to frame a wing wall (all the way to ceiling) about 24" long just beyond the vanity top to shield the vanity - will replace vanity and end of vanity top will butt against wall.

Thus a glass door hinge will be on left side. I know that left wall is a shear wall which makes it harder to add studs for the glass door hinges. The shear walls in my house are 3/4" ply flush with the wall studs (they used 2x2 blocking in the stud bays as nailers for the shear panels). Not a big deal to remove shear wall in a bay and add studs then replace shear panels but i was thinking it might be a good idea to have a short wall protrude from the existing wall - perhaps 3 stacked studs

Of course studs would be attached to floor plate and ceiling blocking and also glued and screwed to the shear panels. I think this would be strong enough for the glass door if the shear panel makes good contact with the added studs (for good glue contact). Also I seem to recall that the shear wall does not go all the way to the ceiling so may be able to put in some blocking where the upper hinge will go. The space between the wall and vanity is 4' so losing 6" or so does not seem like a big deal. Is this a good approach?

Thanks
 

Last edited by PJmax; 05-26-24 at 11:00 AM. Reason: pic hosted/posted PJmax
  #2  
Old 05-26-24, 08:25 AM
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I imagine that the plumbing pros will be along shortly with more correct and detailed input, but as I read your post I noticed you did not mention how you were going to revise the drain. If I recall, a shower needs larger drain piping than a tub.
If my memory is correct then there's a lot more work involved in your project, although you may have covered that in one of the plumbing subforums.
Whatever the case, best of luck with the project.
 
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Old 05-26-24, 09:22 AM
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Yes, the tub's 1 1/2" drain line will need to be change to 2".

"...seem to recall that the shear wall does not go all the way to the ceiling..."
I assume you will find that the sheer wall goes all the way to the ceiling and does not stop half way up.
 
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Old 05-26-24, 12:28 PM
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Thanks guys, I'm aware of the plumbing etc. Have to pull a city permit then start demo. Will hire a plumber if it looks beyond my ability. I have every tile/shower book (and a few plumbing books) but the best guide by far is an ebook i bought which covers every step in detail for membrane/mud floor and waterproof walls using all the usual methods. I have done some DWV and a fair amount of copper supply otherwise no way would I attempt this. I know that any leaks not detected means a complete do over.

I should probably go see a glass guy and ask them but you never know how the knowledgeable the sales person is, often i find that I know more than them. It's the installers that really know their stuff.

Does anyone know how the hinges on the glass work in terms of stops. Is it like cabinets where you can get 86 deg, 90 deg, 100 deg etc?


 
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Old 05-27-24, 06:06 AM
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I have never seen door stops built into the hinges for heavy glass. I believe it puts too much strain on the hinge so I'm accustomed to seeing a physical stop for the door. You can search online and see what types of hinges are available.
 
 

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