Pine Table Refurb
#1
08-11-13, 01:52 AM
Pine Table Refurb
Hi All,
I have recently been given a pine table similar to this one:
http://www.ukaa.com/stockimages/3131_0.jpg
And I would like to do some work on it so it looks like this:
http://traditionalpainter.com/wp-con...pine-table.png
I have also just bought these chairs and would like the wood to be the same colour as the white table legs (we are reupholstering them as well but got that covered).
Office or Dining Chairs Set of 8 Beige Brown | eBay
I have no experience in this area as I have just bought my first house so if anyone could give me some useful tips and what I need to buy that would be great.
We got the table for free so willing to spend a suitable amount of money to do it up.
Thanks in advance
I have recently been given a pine table similar to this one:
http://www.ukaa.com/stockimages/3131_0.jpg
And I would like to do some work on it so it looks like this:
http://traditionalpainter.com/wp-con...pine-table.png
I have also just bought these chairs and would like the wood to be the same colour as the white table legs (we are reupholstering them as well but got that covered).
Office or Dining Chairs Set of 8 Beige Brown | eBay
I have no experience in this area as I have just bought my first house so if anyone could give me some useful tips and what I need to buy that would be great.
We got the table for free so willing to spend a suitable amount of money to do it up.
Thanks in advance
#2
08-11-13, 06:49 PM
Group Moderator
Welcome to the forums.
You have a table that is currently all natural wood colored. It more than likely has several coats of varnish, shellac or some other type of clear coat on the legs. You will need to purchase paint stripper and possibly steel wool to remove the clear coating. You'd best check with a supplier in your area for what stripper to use.
In my opinion you'll need to remove all the finish from the legs and then sand them to a smooth finish. Now you'll need to prime them and paint them white.
You will probably have to use the same method on the chairs.
You have a table that is currently all natural wood colored. It more than likely has several coats of varnish, shellac or some other type of clear coat on the legs. You will need to purchase paint stripper and possibly steel wool to remove the clear coating. You'd best check with a supplier in your area for what stripper to use.
In my opinion you'll need to remove all the finish from the legs and then sand them to a smooth finish. Now you'll need to prime them and paint them white.
You will probably have to use the same method on the chairs.
#3
08-11-13, 10:29 PM
For the wood that you want to paint white, just sand by hand it until the shine goes away, then paint.
If you want to make the top darker you will have to do a better job of sanding because the stain that you would purchase needs to soak into the wood. Sand the top in the direction of the wood grain. (get an electric sander for the flat surfaces). You have to get all the way down to bare wood. No finish at all can be left on the wood or the stain will not soak in.
If you just sand, you won't need to purchase any strippers.
If you want to make the top darker you will have to do a better job of sanding because the stain that you would purchase needs to soak into the wood. Sand the top in the direction of the wood grain. (get an electric sander for the flat surfaces). You have to get all the way down to bare wood. No finish at all can be left on the wood or the stain will not soak in.
If you just sand, you won't need to purchase any strippers.
#4
08-12-13, 03:57 AM
No need to strip the varnish/poly off of the legs but they do need to be sanded and then coated with a solvent based primer. Latex primers won't adhere well to poly! You can then apply your enamel to match the chairs. I'd suggest using a waterborne enamel but oil base or latex will also work. While oil base enamel wears the best - it will yellow as it ages. Waterborne enamel dries almost as hard as oil base but like latex, it won't yellow.
You have 2 choices on the top. To restain, you need to completely strip off the existing finish. This is best accomplished with a chemical stripper followed by sanding. You would then stain and apply 2-3 coats of poly. Another choice is to use a tinted poly like Minwax'x PolyShades. Tinted polys must be applied evenly and can't be touched up or over brushed!! It's best to apply a coat of clear poly over the tinted poly to protect the color coat from wearing off.
You have 2 choices on the top. To restain, you need to completely strip off the existing finish. This is best accomplished with a chemical stripper followed by sanding. You would then stain and apply 2-3 coats of poly. Another choice is to use a tinted poly like Minwax'x PolyShades. Tinted polys must be applied evenly and can't be touched up or over brushed!! It's best to apply a coat of clear poly over the tinted poly to protect the color coat from wearing off.
#5
08-12-13, 06:15 PM
Unless the table has been refinished before, the finish on it is either lacquer or catalyzed lacquer. You can lightly scuff sand the legs and apron and spray them with a spray can of white lacquer. Light coats, lots of light coats. Remove the table top to make it easer. With the table top off you can either strip it with stripper ( follow the directions on the stripper label), or sand the finish off. The key is to get all the finish off. If you go with sanding the finish off be careful not to sand low spots into the top (pine is pretty soft and if you aren't careful you'll end up with a rippled top).
Once the top is stripped of all finish and sanded smooth, you can stain it. Let the stain dry the recommended amount of time(depends on the type of stain).
Pine is soft, it dints easily. You can choose either a surface build finish (lacquer, varnish, or polyurethane), or a wipe on oil finish (Tung oil or Danish oil). With a wipe on oil finish you can add more at any time in the future if the finish gets damaged or starts to look dull.
If you go with a surface build finish, put on at least three coats, and sand lightly with fine sand paper between coats.
Lacquer gets sprayed on. You can find it in spray cans in various sheens(flat, satin, gloss, etc.). Light coats, lots of light coats. Lacquer re-dissolves itself as you spray additional coats, you could spray 3 to 4 coats, let dry overnight, lightly sand it the next day an spray a final top coat.
With varnish or poly you would apply it with a brush. I like the foam brushes with the wood handles. One coat a day for solvent based finishes, sand between coats, every coat. Recently I've been using ZAR Ultra-Max Polyurethane, takes about 2 hours to dry between coats. The fast drying time makes it a little trickier to apply nicely, but it sands easily and three coats give a nice finish.
I hope this helps, good luck.
Once the top is stripped of all finish and sanded smooth, you can stain it. Let the stain dry the recommended amount of time(depends on the type of stain).
Pine is soft, it dints easily. You can choose either a surface build finish (lacquer, varnish, or polyurethane), or a wipe on oil finish (Tung oil or Danish oil). With a wipe on oil finish you can add more at any time in the future if the finish gets damaged or starts to look dull.
If you go with a surface build finish, put on at least three coats, and sand lightly with fine sand paper between coats.
Lacquer gets sprayed on. You can find it in spray cans in various sheens(flat, satin, gloss, etc.). Light coats, lots of light coats. Lacquer re-dissolves itself as you spray additional coats, you could spray 3 to 4 coats, let dry overnight, lightly sand it the next day an spray a final top coat.
With varnish or poly you would apply it with a brush. I like the foam brushes with the wood handles. One coat a day for solvent based finishes, sand between coats, every coat. Recently I've been using ZAR Ultra-Max Polyurethane, takes about 2 hours to dry between coats. The fast drying time makes it a little trickier to apply nicely, but it sands easily and three coats give a nice finish.
I hope this helps, good luck.
