Aspen taking stain unevenly
#1
08-19-02, 07:29 AM
Aspen taking stain unevenly
We've been finishing some unfinished aspen furniture (yes, still... we're slow about it), and while the results so far have been pretty good, we have noticed that the stain isn't taking very evenly. There are some spots much darker than others, some much lighter -- and it's not just based on the grain.
We're using Minwax products, and did put down a single coat of pre-conditioner as recommended for pine and aspen. Followed up with two coats of stain and then two coats of poly (poly has not been put on the more recent pieces yet).
Any suggestions on what we've done wrong or how to fix it?
We're using Minwax products, and did put down a single coat of pre-conditioner as recommended for pine and aspen. Followed up with two coats of stain and then two coats of poly (poly has not been put on the more recent pieces yet).
Any suggestions on what we've done wrong or how to fix it?
#3
08-19-02, 02:16 PM
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Assuming you followed the directions on the product, I can see nothing wrong with what you did, but #1Charles is right - alcohol soluble dyes are better; more even color and no pigment to obscure the wood itself.
#4
08-20-02, 09:52 AM
I'm not familiar with alcohol based dyes, and the big box stores aren't either. From some minor research online it looks like they are usually applied via sprayer or dipping, which isn't something I can do.
At this point I'm actually rather confused about what I should do.
I know I need to remove the poly and stain -- one of the big boxes recommended a heavy duty semi-paste chemical stripper for this, with light to moderate sanding afterwards. Is this the way to go to remove the poly and stain? (Yes, I read the refinishing guide here, which had different info from several other things I've read).
Once the old stain is sufficiently removed, how should I go about putting on new stain? I'm sure we need to use more pre-conditioner, but should I stick with the oil based stain, switch to an oil based gel, or learn more about alcohol based stains?
Help is deeply appreciated -- we have a bunch of semi-finished and unfinished furniture now. The first attempt went poorly which is frustrating, not to mention that the furniture is preventing me from doing other work on the house.
At this point I'm actually rather confused about what I should do.
I know I need to remove the poly and stain -- one of the big boxes recommended a heavy duty semi-paste chemical stripper for this, with light to moderate sanding afterwards. Is this the way to go to remove the poly and stain? (Yes, I read the refinishing guide here, which had different info from several other things I've read).
Once the old stain is sufficiently removed, how should I go about putting on new stain? I'm sure we need to use more pre-conditioner, but should I stick with the oil based stain, switch to an oil based gel, or learn more about alcohol based stains?
Help is deeply appreciated -- we have a bunch of semi-finished and unfinished furniture now. The first attempt went poorly which is frustrating, not to mention that the furniture is preventing me from doing other work on the house.
#5
08-21-02, 03:00 AM
Although I'm no expert, I've been doing some staining on pine as of late, starting with sample boards to get the technique just right before tackling the project itself. This helped me to work out the bugs first.
Thanks to the book George recommended, I have a much better understanding of stain and wood conditioner now which takes a bit of the guesswork out of the process.
The wood conditioner, simply put, is inhibiting the wood from taking the stain deep into it?s pores and is often used for soft or uneven woods so that the stain is kept more on the surface. If you want your color to sink deeply into the wood, a conditioner should probably not be used. I read the directions on the can and followed them specifically and got wonderful results
I brushed the conditioner (one application) on and left it for about 7 minuets. I applied the stain right away after wiping the board of the excess conditioner. Using a gel stain, I also used a brush to liberally apply the stain in the direction of the grain. Leaving the stain for a minute or two, I then gently wiped away the excess with an old tee shirt.
The gel stain, as I discovered, is also intended to kind of sit upon the wood rather than sink deeply in. This can work for or against you, depending on the type of wood you?re working with and the results you want.
Your problem might be that your wood, even though it?s the same kind of wood, has different characteristics that might make a difference in the finishing process. If you?re stripping and starting over on this project, you might try the gel stain. It is readily available at most home stores or hardwares.
I also discovered not to use water based poly over oil based stain. It pulled off the color in some places.
I do hope this information is helpful to you. I?m still learning myself and know how frustrating this can be.
Elizabeth
Thanks to the book George recommended, I have a much better understanding of stain and wood conditioner now which takes a bit of the guesswork out of the process.
The wood conditioner, simply put, is inhibiting the wood from taking the stain deep into it?s pores and is often used for soft or uneven woods so that the stain is kept more on the surface. If you want your color to sink deeply into the wood, a conditioner should probably not be used. I read the directions on the can and followed them specifically and got wonderful results
I brushed the conditioner (one application) on and left it for about 7 minuets. I applied the stain right away after wiping the board of the excess conditioner. Using a gel stain, I also used a brush to liberally apply the stain in the direction of the grain. Leaving the stain for a minute or two, I then gently wiped away the excess with an old tee shirt.
The gel stain, as I discovered, is also intended to kind of sit upon the wood rather than sink deeply in. This can work for or against you, depending on the type of wood you?re working with and the results you want.
Your problem might be that your wood, even though it?s the same kind of wood, has different characteristics that might make a difference in the finishing process. If you?re stripping and starting over on this project, you might try the gel stain. It is readily available at most home stores or hardwares.
I also discovered not to use water based poly over oil based stain. It pulled off the color in some places.
I do hope this information is helpful to you. I?m still learning myself and know how frustrating this can be.
Elizabeth
#6
08-21-02, 05:46 PM
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Various strippers work in different ways when it comes to removing stain. I use a semi-paste stripper for poly, varnish, and painted surfaces, especially vertical surfaces (sides and legs) because it holds on better. This particular paste stripper (Savogran) doesn't really do much for stain removal. For that I use Kwik.
Elizabeth offers very valid suggestions that I would follow if it's possible in your case; trying your technique on scrap first, then the furniture.
Alcohol soluble dyes are usually sprayed on (furniture mfgs do this all the time), but they can be brushed on IF you're sure of the color before you start. That's the one bad thing about this type of coloring; it penetrates the wood deeply, and if you get it too dark, you're hung with it. Unlike oil based stains, however, you can start light and build the color through repeated applications. You won't obliterate the grain of the wood, and the dyes dry within minutes.
Elizabeth offers very valid suggestions that I would follow if it's possible in your case; trying your technique on scrap first, then the furniture.
Alcohol soluble dyes are usually sprayed on (furniture mfgs do this all the time), but they can be brushed on IF you're sure of the color before you start. That's the one bad thing about this type of coloring; it penetrates the wood deeply, and if you get it too dark, you're hung with it. Unlike oil based stains, however, you can start light and build the color through repeated applications. You won't obliterate the grain of the wood, and the dyes dry within minutes.
