Sanding procedure


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Old 06-28-00, 12:06 PM
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George- Here I am again still trying to figure out what went wrong with my finish on those cabinets! I stirred the poly thoroughly as you suggested but the problem still remained. The flat spots still appeared! A local paint and supply store suggested that I strip this time with a chemical stripper and wash it down with a laquer thinner right afterwards. They agreed that the problem looks like a lack of preparation in the sanding. Now my question- Now that the finish is removed completely, how do I go about sanding before and after staining (what grit to use at each step). Then after staining, how do I sand? I still plan on using the sanding sealer afterwards-before the poly so please fill me in on sanding in between those steps as well. You are a lifesaver! This site is just great! Thanks in advance to all----Vince
 
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Old 06-28-00, 05:46 PM
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Vince:

My sympathies on your troubles. If it's any comfort, I too have problems every once in a while when I can't figure out what the h***
went wrong...

You've sanded these cabinets before and stripped with a chemical stripper and cleaned up with lacquer thinner. 240 production paper is your next step. You don't need anything heavier. Sand enough to see they've been sanded and quit.

Wipe the cabinets down with a water-damp rag, and go away for 60 minutes. The water will raise any fine fibers in the grain that are still there. Go over the entire cabinet again with 220 - BY HAND. This will remove the fibers raised by the water without any excessive sanding as might happen with a machine.

Stain is next. Apply after stirring thoroughly so the color will be even. Let this alone for 24 hours, allowing the stain plenty of time to dry. Apply your sanding sealer. Sand after it dries (read the manufacturers instructions for time frame) with nothing rougher than 240 wet/dry, lubricated with water. The entire surface should be dull. If you see any pockets of shine (depressions that didn't get sanded) sand again. If you feel you might have cut through the sealer into the stain, seal again and sand again.

After that go with the finish, sanding lightly after each coat has dried with 400 grit wet/dry paper, again lubricated with water. This is basically just to remove the 'nubbies' and flatten (as in smooth, not sheen) the entire finish).

BTW, it's an old wive's (old finishers) tale that sanding with water makes a piece smoother - what it does is keep the paper from clogging up as quickly, thus lasting longer.

After your final coat, you can either use 600 grit wet/dry paper or steel wool if you feel you need to. If the sheen is too dull after that, use Turtle Wax polishing compound and scratch remover (1 product), available from your local automotive store. It has a fine abrasive in it to remove the sanding/steel wool marks, and will make the cabinets shine.

Please report back on your progress. We'll lick this thing as long as you have the determination and patience.

---------
George T.
 
 

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