Spray Varnish/stain mixture?

I am considering refinishing my kitchen cabinets. They are currently a golden oak. I would like to stain then in ae red oak/mahogony colour. While at the DIY store the other day, the sales person suggested painting the cabinets with the stain/varnish mix that they sell to avoid having to strip the cabinets. Does this work? Then the sales person said it would be even quicker to spray this stain/varnish mixture. Can varnish be sprayed?
Thanks for the help.

 

Yes.

Minwax polyshades is the most common tinted poly/varnish although most can be tinted. Spraying is usually quicker. Whether brushing or spraying a tinted finish, it is very important to keep a consistent coverage. Because it is a tinted clear finish, thick or thin areas will be a different color. Paint drips or runs will also be darker [but we never mess up do we ]

Done correctly spraying can produce a nicer finish - no brush marks.

 

Not always sure whether can trust the information from the Big box DIY stores. What kind of sprayer is used, airless or airbrush or ???

 

It is hard to get good results with an airless on small jobs. You would definetly need to use a small tip. Air brush is too small.

For cabinets I would think you would be better off using a cup gun [runs off air] Not all cup guns are the same - some are designed for fine finishes [like auto paint] and some will spray heavier materials.

If by airless you where reffering to one of the home owner type guns [wagner or similiar] I don't know too much about them since I've only used commercial type airless's' What ever you spray with, you will need to be able to control the amount of material that it sprays so you can get a wet finish but without runs.

 

I don't think I would spray the stuff. I don't even know if it OK to spray,but even if it is, the masking will will be tedious and it is difficult to keep the spray out of the inside of the cabinet--assuming you do not want to get it inside.

If you do want to spray the inside this is not as easy as you may think. getting the gun[any gun] to hit the whole inside is practically impossible, and then there is the blow back in your face

I would first find out if it is recommended to be sprayed If it is what do they recommend you use. Then decide if you want to do it.

Painting or staining cabinets with min wax polyshades is not all that time consuming.It goes faster than you think. Personally I would spend more time on prep[cleaning] than worrying about brushing or spraying[something you don't sound like you have done before]

I would probably not spray them,but if I did I would rent a Hvlp unit with a remote tank so all I would have to worry about would be the air and paint supply hoses attached to the gun. I would probably rent it near the end of the day so I would have time to let the first coat dry overnight -sand the next morning -vacuum and apply the second coat,and get it back on time. You will need to clean it too

 

I didn't realize swstar was considering spraying everything. I just assumed only the doors where to be sprayed - in another location. I wouldn't advize spraying in an occupied dwelling.

 

The "plan" would be to remove the doors and drawers, then spray in a well ventilated location. (not in the kitchen). The remaining trim and facing would be done with a brush. The inside of the cabinets would not be done.
Any other thoughts?

 

As long as it it is reccommended by minwax to spray the polyshades it sounds good. If the drawer fronts are not too intricate[some just have a routed edge] or don't come off easy they may be easier to do in place. you will need to mask the drawer box if you spray

 

I have sprayed polyshades and other tinted varnish/poly numerous times. It sprays just like untinted varnish. You do have to strive for even coverage and any drips or runs will be darker. Works well with spray using a little care.

 

polyshades and a using a brush to apply can be disapointing.

if you do not want to remove the cabinets from the wall, then i
would mask off the cabinets and spray the finish on. two coats for
coverage or spray to the colour you want, then top coat twice with clear.
the same amount of tinted coats for all pieces for uniformity.

if you spray the doors/drawers, and then brush the "trim/facing" you
may well end up with two different colours.

depends on your weather, may be best for summer with a box fan in the
windows with a 20x20 filter taped to the fan. with other fans w/filters outside
of the kitchen blowing air into the kitchen, unplug everything,no pilot lights.

use an hvlp gun and spray with min pressure your gun will spray at.

you do not want to get a run with a tinted poly or laquer, for fixing the
run after it drys tends to only enlarge the problem. if you get a run, wipe the run off with a rag damp with thinner before it drys, then reshoot. hopefully you dont have to wipe a large surface area off.

if you are doing this now in a cold weather location, how will you heat to
cure your finish? remember that the finish "vents" gasses as it cures and
you need ventilation for that process, otherwise, possibly boom.

 

One quick thought to throw a damper across the entire operation...

Neither standard varnish or polyurethane is compatible with a lacquer finish, which is what is on factory finished cabinets.

If you want to use polyshades, either aerosol or brush on, the cabinet must be stripped first, regardless of what the "Big Box" guy told you.

 

i agree that to apply lacquer over poly or varnish is asking for problems.
it can be done though.

never the less, i do believe that applying poly or varnish over laquer is fine
as long as you do the normal prep of preparing the lacquer surface by
cleaning and scuffing as you would do for any old finish when applying a new finish over it.

it is the lacquer thinner that generally causes the lifting of the previous
surface, be it varnish or poly.

it has to do with the "hotness" of the thinner, oil based thinners are
not as "hot" as lacquers.

you can even coat a latex finish with lacquer as long as you do not thin the
lacquer.