Door refinnishing


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Old 01-17-06, 11:39 AM
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Door refinnishing

I have a house that was built in 1932. most of the doors in the house are original (very nice craftsmanship) and have (sinfully) been painted white on one side. This spring I am planning on sanding and refinnishing these doors. Right now the unpained sides are a rich walnut color with some sort of "saten sheen" clear coat. What type of sander should I use? orbital, belt, block of wood with sand paper wraped around it? What grit paper should be used? What type of coating?

I am thinking of doing this with a Black and Decker random orbit sander. Start out with about 100 grit, to remove the white paint, and work my way to about 200 grit.and stain with a minwax stain of some sort. I have no idea what type of sealer/clear coat/varnish/poly I should use. If I am at all wrong about how to do this PLEASE tell me.
 
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Old 01-17-06, 07:02 PM
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Sanding will remove the paint but it will be awfully slow. DON'T USE A BELT SANDER - they are only for removing wood!

I would use a stripper on the wood first and then sand. An orbital sander will work fine. Be sure to do any hand sanding with the direction of the grain. Cross sanding will result in scratches that will be unsightly unless removed.

The doors were probably origianly finished with shellac. Either poly or varnish will work well over whatever stain you use. Both come in 3 basic sheens, satin, semi-gloss & gloss. You may need to experiment some to get the right stain color as most previously painted/stained wood doesn't stain the same as raw wood.
 
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Old 01-17-06, 09:20 PM
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pls. you did not clearly state what your end look would be.

you have doors that are painted on one side, and walnut colour on the other side.

what is the final look that you want? the painted side to match the

walnut side???
 
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Old 01-19-06, 09:49 AM
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leewaytoo,

I would like the pained side to match the walnut side. I know that it will be nearly impossible to match the color, not to mention that over time the colors would change a little. Since this is the case, I figured I would have to refinnish the whole door (both sides) and hopefully i can get a uniform finnish.

any other suggestions or tips are welcome.
 
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Old 01-19-06, 01:00 PM
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well, i would not do this project untill the weather is warm, to the
point that having the door off it's hinges for a week is ok.

strip both sides and edges, do the painted side first.

if you are lucky there might be a clear finish under the paint.

protect your floor from stripper,

place on top of two sawhorses.

after stripping the painted side clean, use paint thinner to rinse and
scrub with "O" steel wool.

turn over and strip walnut side. rinse as above.
try not to get stripper on the side that was painted, might cause
lighter spots. check as you apply and strip to make sure.
let dry 24 hours.

clean your sawhorses and then after dry, pad them to protect
the side of the door you are not sanding.

repair and filling with wood putty if needed, then sand to 220, if you dont need to sand heavely start/finish with 220.

decide the colour of stain and apply to both sides and edges at the
same staining.

stain one side while flat on the saw horses, wipe off, have
a place where you can lean the door up against vertically
at an angle so on the top corner and bottom corner touch, and
stain the second side and edges. wipe off, use a rag with stain to
do the edges.

now you need to check the first side to make sure you have not
restained it by accident, or that you have hand marks,
use gloves and have rags in your gloved hands to handle the door.
you need to work quickly.

check your door for stain runs often in the first hour, simply wipe them
away with the grain. if you let the stain runs dry you will have a problem.
let dry for min of 24 hrs, depending on temp.

after dry use the type of finish that you have decided on, on one side
as it lays flat on the saw horses, or you can rehang door and do both
sides at one time, you just cant close the door.
if on the sawhorses, do the one side and edges, be sure to check for
drops on the underside and wipe them away immediately, do not let them
dry. apply a thin coat to begin with let dry then apply a normal coat.
let dry, sand LIGHTLY with 220 or 320.
apply another coat sand again, apply final coat.

allow 2-3 days before turning over on your "padded" sawhorses to do the
other side.

as to finishes, it is up to you, uv inhibitors are important for the exterior.
oil based finish will take longer to setup and dry,
check out varathane products for exterior, and apply to both sides.
it is up to you, do goggle search for "exterior clear finish products"
or check out this site.
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_bas...or_Finish.html

remember, you are working with flammable material, eye protect, gloves,
and VENTILATION, NO PILOT LIGHTS OR OPEN FLAMES.
 

Last edited by leewaytoo; 01-19-06 at 01:12 PM.
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Old 01-20-06, 02:33 PM
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IMO it would be easier to just strip and finish 1 side. Both stain and poly/varnish can be tinted to make the door come out similiar in looks to the walnut side. Any wood that has been stripped does not stain the same as raw wood. Even if you used the exact same materials that were used on the walnut side it wouldn't look the same. You should [with a little effort] be able to come close with the new and old finishes.
 
 

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