How to refinish a table with tung oil....?

I have a cherry dining table that was refinished with tung oil. We use the table a lot and I would like to put a more durable finish on it...probably polyurethane.

Question: How do I, or do I, remove the remaining oil finish? The table dries out and I have been reapplying oil...but it does not last. Do I just let it look very dry and then put another finish on....or must I use a stripper? Any recommendations?

Thanks for any help you can give.

 

annmcnulty,

It's not necessary for you to strip your table in order to add a polyurethane finish to it, but it does have to be properly prepped before applying the finish.

To start out, wash the surface and edges of the top (if that's all your intending to do) with lacquer thinner. Make sure you have very good ventilation and are away from any flames. The lacquer thinner drys very quickly but smells a lot!! You'll want to use a cotton rag (like an old t shirt) to wet with thinner and wash down the table. What you're doing with this procedure is removing as much of the tung oil on the surface of the wood as possible. This will allow the urethane to "grab" the wood and hold better.

After the table is dry (I'd wait at least 3 hours!) sand the entire area going with the grain of the wood with 220 grit garnet sandpaper. You're not attempting to heavily sand the top, just to open the pores of the wood moreso.

In your case, it IS necessary for you to use an oil based urethane. Water based urethane will not work over tung oil. When you purchase your urethane, also pick up a good quality bristle brush and some mineral spirits for cleaning the brush (you can also use lacquer thinner for this!). Stop by an automotive paint supply store an pick up a container of fisheye eliminator. Most of the automotive paint suppliers have a brand called "Smoothie", but the brand name really doesn't matter. Frankly, it's all about the same.

Prior to applying the finish to your table, add about one squirt of fisheye eliminator to the polyurethane. Stir (Don't shake!) the container of finish very well especially if you choose a satin finish.

The application of the finish is done by using just the tips of the brush applying a thin coat of finish in strokes going with the grain of the wood. After going over a large area, draw the tips of the brush, in one long movement, the length of the wet area to remove any bubbles or overlapped areas. Allow the finish to dry overnight before proceeding.

With your first coat dry, wrap a piece of 220 sandpaper around a block of wood about 3"x5" and lightly sand the finish going with the grain. What you are doing is sanding out any bumps or roughness in the finish. When you've completed the entire table, wipe it down with a rag slightly dampened with mineral spirits (Not wet!! and DO NOT USE LACQUER THINNER FOR THIS!!).

After thoroughly cleaning the entire table, apply your second coat of finish. When this coat is dry, you'll notice (or should notice!) a lot less roughness and the table will only have to have a light scuffing before cleaning and applying the final coat of finish.

After the table is finished remember these few things: Don't set anything on the table for an extended time for the first week after finishing the table. Do not apply wax or spray polish on the finish for at least a month. Actually with the urethane finish there is no need to clean it with a spray polish. Simply wipe the table down with a damp cloth followed by a dry, soft cloth. The finish is waterproof and scratch resistant. While it will take a real beating, still protect the finish with hot pads when using hot or warm bowls and/or pans.

Take your time, do it right, and you'll enjoy your table for many years to come. Let us know how it comes out!!

CD

 

Your help was obvviously pegged to my perceived (and real) lack of experience. It all makes sense and I thank you for taking the time to give me guidance, with clarity! Mucho gracias!

 

I have done quite a few projects using tung oil, including several black powder guns. These guns take a lot of abuse from the black powder and cleaning, and the stocks still look like new. Not sure why you think poly is better or that the tung oil needs to be replaced?????

 

Hey JUST Bill!!
You're right, tung oil is commonly used for gun stocks and is very good. It's waterproof and forms a good hard finish. As does boiled linseed oil which is also commonly used.
From my experience with Long riflemen, the gun and stock are cleaned regularly and for the first year or so a thin coat of tung oil or boiled linseed oil(in addition to the original finish) is applied about once a month. The wood on a gun is very tight grained and needs to have a penetrating finish to keep it from drying out and shattering when the firearm is shot.
With a table, however, Tung oil is good if you don't mind taking the extended time to add a coat of tung oil at least every other night for two to three weeks. The wood on a dining table is typically a much softer wood than used for firearms. It is much more absorptive and has to subjected to a significant amount of heat and moisture. Heat by itself, or moisture by itself is ok with tung oil, but put the two together and you can have damaged areas where the moisture is forced into the finish.

Urethane creates a molecular carbon particle bond that prevents any water (under household heat situations) from penetrating it surface. The urethane finish builds very quickly, generally no more than three coats, and never needs to have polishes or renewal coats put on it. A wet rag to clean any dust or food debree does just fine.

Tung oil is an excellent finish. If it were any other item of furnishing I'd have not problem with using it. With a dining table or a sideboard, I'm more at ease with recommending the urethane finish. I personally do not like urethane. I have found a multitude of ways to better enhance the appearance of wood. But those finishes don't offer the ease of application and the protection as with urethane.

 

Just for the record, the one gun that gets the most use was finished about 25 yrs ago, and nothing has been done since, except to use it and clean it, still looks new.
I agree that poly is the best thing to use on furniture, and use it most of the time. But if the piece was already finished with some other material that works as well, why change. I am not trying to challenge anyone to a duel, just suggesting a point of view. Some people may think tung oil is not as good a finish.
Bob Flexner, in "Understanding Wood Finishes", says tung oil is extremely waterproof, but can be difficult to properly apply, and requires more coats than other finishes.

 

Just Bill,
No challenge taken whatsoever. I understand where you are coming from and I feel you understand my perspective too. I truly appreciate your input and help. It means a lot to everyone.
You're pretty cool and I like the way you handle things!!
CD