stain bleeding under tape
#1
04-01-07, 08:34 AM
stain bleeding under tape
hi,
i finished sanding the dining room oak floor.vac. and taced it all.
i have the light oak stain on and it is dry.i put a 2 inch boarder in a darker stain around the edge.i had some bleeding under the tape. what can i do to prevent this. i want to do a checker board pattern on the whole floor.using the darker stain over the light.is there a special tape?
j
i finished sanding the dining room oak floor.vac. and taced it all.
i have the light oak stain on and it is dry.i put a 2 inch boarder in a darker stain around the edge.i had some bleeding under the tape. what can i do to prevent this. i want to do a checker board pattern on the whole floor.using the darker stain over the light.is there a special tape?
j
#2
04-01-07, 09:40 AM
Welcome to the diy forums!
I don't know of any type of tape that would prevent stain from seeping under it on unfinished wood. Could you stain and seal all the light color and then "paint" the darker squares with a tinted poly?
I don't know of any type of tape that would prevent stain from seeping under it on unfinished wood. Could you stain and seal all the light color and then "paint" the darker squares with a tinted poly?
#3
04-01-07, 10:16 AM
Super Moderator
As far as I know what you are trying to achieve cannot be done.
The look you are going for would be done by cutting out the flooring and inlaying a different species or different color in the same species of wood.
The look you are going for would be done by cutting out the flooring and inlaying a different species or different color in the same species of wood.
#4
04-01-07, 04:47 PM
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GregH and marksr are both right.
How much the stain bleeds really depends on what type you use. An oil based stain ...whew!!!....it'll bleed a lot. Water based stain doesn't bleed nearly as much and "most" of the time can be readily cleaned up.
If you have the stain bleeding at this point and, obviously, need to do something about it, get your knees ready and here we go...
About the only way to remove the bleeding of stain is to use a sharp scraper (sharpened going the length of the blade with a good quality metal file). Place the sharpened blade next to the stained area, press firmly on the scraper and draw the blade towards you. Do this if the wood grain is going through the stained area. If the wood grain goes in the same direction of the stained area, use a metal straight edge (or something comparable) to mark off the edge you want and draw the scraper along the side of the straight edge.
It is best, if you're going to stain the entire floor to do that first before inserting decorative edging. But since it didn't happen that way, I think this method will get your floor looking the way you'd like it.
Let us know how you do.
CD
How much the stain bleeds really depends on what type you use. An oil based stain ...whew!!!....it'll bleed a lot. Water based stain doesn't bleed nearly as much and "most" of the time can be readily cleaned up.
If you have the stain bleeding at this point and, obviously, need to do something about it, get your knees ready and here we go...
About the only way to remove the bleeding of stain is to use a sharp scraper (sharpened going the length of the blade with a good quality metal file). Place the sharpened blade next to the stained area, press firmly on the scraper and draw the blade towards you. Do this if the wood grain is going through the stained area. If the wood grain goes in the same direction of the stained area, use a metal straight edge (or something comparable) to mark off the edge you want and draw the scraper along the side of the straight edge.
It is best, if you're going to stain the entire floor to do that first before inserting decorative edging. But since it didn't happen that way, I think this method will get your floor looking the way you'd like it.
Let us know how you do.
CD
#5
04-03-07, 05:43 PM
re stain bleeding under tape.
well i repaired the bleeding by making the border larger.i like it better wider.
i used a rag instead of a brush and had more control over the stain.no bleeding at all.
i don't know if i was clear the first post. min wax has an add in a magazine to do this process.it is beautiful.that said.
i ran out of stain, i taped off the squares only to find i was off an inch in the over all grid so i decided it was not ment to be. perhaps i will put a checker board on our front porch floor.
the floor is stained.it has been polyed twice,sanded twice and taced and it has a very nice satin finish.furniture will go back in in 24 hours.
then it will be time to tile the floor in the cooking part of this kitchen remake.
thanks for your input.
j
i used a rag instead of a brush and had more control over the stain.no bleeding at all.
i don't know if i was clear the first post. min wax has an add in a magazine to do this process.it is beautiful.that said.
i ran out of stain, i taped off the squares only to find i was off an inch in the over all grid so i decided it was not ment to be. perhaps i will put a checker board on our front porch floor.
the floor is stained.it has been polyed twice,sanded twice and taced and it has a very nice satin finish.furniture will go back in in 24 hours.
then it will be time to tile the floor in the cooking part of this kitchen remake.
thanks for your input.
j
#6
04-03-07, 06:46 PM
Member
Make sure you give the poly time to cure before replacing furniture. Curing times on labels is 'estimated' and can vary based on temperature and humidity.
