Matching stain on Mahogany doors with pine windows etc.


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Old 04-15-07, 10:10 AM
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Matching stain on Mahogany doors with pine windows etc.

Hello all, me again!
I have installed Mahogany exterior doors with mahogany returns and casing. I have also installed clear pine windows with pine returns and ash casing. I could not find clear pine casing to match and the the ash was as close as my local suppliers could provide. I actually like the ash much more due to it's hardness and grain, but I could barely afford the pine wood windows and to upgrade to a harder wood was 30%+ more $! Anyway, the goal is to match the finish on all of these woods to the same color. To make it easier we are shooting for a final color of a dark walnut tone.
The Bolivian mahogany doors started out on the lighter more yellowish than red side and have been installed 6 months without treatment resulting in a light mahogany. The wood surface is also lifted somewhat and in need of some prep, I assume sanding and possibly some sort of conditioning before finishing? The returns are veneer and are new and unexposed. They are the typical reddish mahogany tone. The casing looks the same as the returns, but solid mahogany. Neither the doors nor the casing etc. will ever get direct exposure of sunlight or rain etc. We are located in S. FL though and therefore they will be exposed to high humidity and our area can be quite dusty.
The pine windows are slighly yellowed since they have also been installed without treatment for some time now and about half of them will recieve direct sunlight thru the UV protected glass of the window itself (they are aluminum cased on the outside). The returns are newer and started out a whiter tone than the yellower windows. Both are fairly clear of grain. The ash casing is more of a natural tone with graining.
I have experimented with some dark stain and the pine seems to not take the stain very well appearing very washed out? The ash was light with the first coat after 10 minutes compared to the other woods and I had to swipe on a second coat to bring it to the same darkness of the pine and mahogany samples. I tried wiping half of every sample piece of wood of all types with Minwax wood conditioner before staining and honestly could not tell which half I placed the conditioner onto after applying stain?
I need suggestions to make this task as trouble free as possible especially in the pre staining prep. Also, regarding the mahogany doors where the grain has lifted, what should I do there? Basically it feels very rough as if not sanded at all if not even worse. I had also made the mistake of taping off the doors with regular making tape prior to painting and left it on. Now when I am removing the tape it has not only left residue but is tearing the surface of the wood in some places, actually removing small slivers. Thanks once again!!!
 
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Old 04-15-07, 04:59 PM
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If the tape residue doesn't come off with a solvent you will probably need to sand it off.

All your woodwork will stain better if you sand it first. I suspect you will need 3 different stains to get the 3 different woods to match in color. I'd suggest taking a piece of scrap of each type of wood to a real paint store and having them make up stains to meet your requirements.
 
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Old 04-16-07, 05:23 AM
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Thanks for the reply! What is the best solvent to use to remove the tape residue? I figured I was going to have to have different shade levels of the stain made for each wood type but have lost confidence in my local so called pro stores while trying to get some color matches on paint recently for the exterior. I went to Porter and Sherwin Williams and neither seemed to have the experience on staff to know how to get the match done outside of what little they were taught in training. Obviously a couple 19-21 yr. old kids have little to no real experience in the specifics of paint and finishing methods/materials which was proven after I requested them to try and match an accent based color. I will try again and hope that there is atleast one person on one of the shifts that has a clue.
 
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Old 04-16-07, 05:32 AM
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Paint thinner or mineral spirits should remove tape residue. Find out what shift the store manager works.
 
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Old 04-16-07, 05:56 AM
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SWP shouldn't have had much problem matching paint, they have a computer program that reads the color sample and tells what base and colorant is needed. Often it needs a slight adjustment to make it virtually perfect.

Store managers usually work the first shift - that's when most of the pro painters pick up their supplies.
 
 

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