Refinish Butcher Block Table


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Old 04-16-07, 06:01 AM
A
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Refinish Butcher Block Table

Help! Just purchased a 36" x 36" butcher block top table. Legs are oak 2x4s and the top appears to be laminated Maple 2"x2"s. Table is about 10 yrs old and the "unfinished" top has always been treated with mineral oil. Top is in good condition - just a little rough and needs sanding to smooth. I want to refinish the top, both to stain and to apply a hard, waterproof finish, and stain the legs to match. It will be used only as a table, and not for chopping, cutting or food prep.

Sanding: Start with about 120 and finish with 220, on an orbital sander, or?

Stain: I do not want a natural, light maple color. Will I have problems getting a stain to take because of the hardness and closed grain of the maple, and/or the previous application of mineral oil? What kind or type of stain to use? Will I be able to use the same stain color on the oak legs to get a match to the top, or just forget a match and go for a contrasting color?

Is a W/B polyurethane o.k. to use on the top after the stain, or is there something better for my application? Any problems getting poly to stick with previous mineral oil finish? Does the same advice apply to the 2 sides where the end grain is exposed? I should say that the top has obviously not been treated in some time, and is pretty dry, and has already been vigerously scrubbed with Murphy's.

After finishing the top, should the unfinished bottom of the maple top be periodically treated with mineral oil to prevent drying out and possible cracking? It doesn't look like it has ever been treated.

I know this is a long one. :-) Thanks in advance! AWolf
 

Last edited by AWolf; 04-16-07 at 08:32 AM.
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Old 04-16-07, 03:37 PM
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If it will be used for food prep(you said no), NO STAIN. If for decoration, the color is your choice. But if it has been oiled for a number of years it may be hard to get a surface that will accept stain.
Poly is a good finish, but again, the previous oil may be a problem. Wash the surface with paint thinner, lacquer thinner, and alcohol after sanding, then try the stain on a corner. If it seems OK, go for it.
 
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Old 04-17-07, 05:07 AM
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Another possibility (and I admit this is a little far out) I have done twice on similar projects - take the piece apart and reverse the top - putting the 'downside' UP.

Depends on how the piece is constructed , of course, and may not be possible. It would, however, give you a relatively clean surface (no oil) to work with.
 
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Old 04-17-07, 05:26 AM
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Refinish Butcher Block Table

George: Thanks for the thought, but already looked at this possibility. However, the legs are screwed to the bottom. Several large holes. Desperate to get on with this project sure and hope more will jump in with expert advice!
 
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Old 04-17-07, 07:22 AM
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Going back to what Bill suggested - cleaning as he mentioned would be a start. You may want to consider a 'gel' type stain to achieve the color you want. This type of stain allows for multiple coats, which may be necessary as maple is a very dense wood and doesn't absorb stain easily.

Otherwise, any good finish (poly would work well) in the sheen you desire would finish the project.
 
 

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