stripping my bannister


  #1  
Old 11-04-08, 02:17 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
stripping my bannister

Hello! Here's my problem! I've had maple hardwood floors installed, they are a deep brown-black. The staircase in my home has an oak handrail which looks like it's just had a laquer applied, as it's honey colored. I'd like to restain the handrail to match the flooring. Well, I trotted off to Rona and bought some Circa 1850 Furniture stripper, applied, stripped, sanded, etc and then applied a coat of Minwax gel stain. I'm not even getting anywhere close to the color I want, I reapplied,but it just seems to grab the stain in the grain, the "smooth" parts don't have any color penetration at all. What can anyone suggest?

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...elphi002-1.jpg
 
  #2  
Old 11-09-08, 12:01 PM
P
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I had supplied a link to a detailed answer to your question, but it was removed by a forum moderator. Apparently links are not allowed.
 

Last edited by Paul .; 11-09-08 at 02:09 PM. Reason: Links to other forums not allowed.
  #3  
Old 11-22-08, 10:33 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for the effort Paul! OK, here's my problem, the administrators have removed the link, NOW WHAT? I still need an answer to my problem, so if anyone can help that would be greatly appreciated!
 
  #4  
Old 11-22-08, 03:42 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,782
Received 871 Upvotes on 762 Posts
It may be difficult to achieve the color you want with stain alone. If you could supply a pic using a free site like Image hosting, free photo sharing & video sharing at Photobucket it would help us to know exactly what you are trying to get the finish procduct to look like. A pic of both the handrail and the flooring you are trying to match would be nice.

Generally when I can't get wood to take the stain I need it to, I'll go ahead and apply my first coat of poly/varnish, sand lightly when dry and then apply a tinted poly [like minwax polyshades] 1-2 coats of the correct 'color' usually brings the desired result. A clear top coat is then applied over the tinted poly/varnish to protect the color from wear. The reason I apply clear first before adding tint, is that make it easier to control the color.



note to Paul,
Sometimes links are allowed. I didn't see your original post but can only assume that it was percieved as an attempt to advertise another site.
 
  #5  
Old 11-24-08, 11:40 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thanks for taking the time to reply Mark. I have a photobucket picture on my first post, is it not showing up? When I tried clicking on the link, I get the pic I posted. Anyway, I'll give your tips a try, looks like I have alot of sanding ahead of me! It's the underneath part of the banister that's going to drive me nuts! Any other tips are welcome and appreciated!
 
  #6  
Old 11-24-08, 03:29 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,782
Received 871 Upvotes on 762 Posts
I don't know how I misssed the pic

I don't know of any way to get that coloring with stain alone - it will take tinted poly/varnish..... and the underside of the rail is never fun, once it's been installed. You could almost get by with dark paint on the bottom side.
 
  #7  
Old 11-25-08, 11:04 AM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Here's another question for you, Mark! You said to apply my first coat of poly/varnish, sand lightly when dry and then apply a tinted poly [like minwax polyshades]..since I already have some kind of (what I assume is) varnish on my banister, couldn't I just sand that and then apply the tinted poly? I'm trying to make my life as easy as possible with this. but if I have to put in the elbow grease, I'll do it!
 
  #8  
Old 11-25-08, 11:19 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,782
Received 871 Upvotes on 762 Posts
I thought you had already stripped the wood raw. If it still has varnish/poly on it,it won't take stain anyway. You need to atleast scuff sand the existing finish so the next coat will adhere better. It will take several coats of the polyshades to darken the wood as much as the floor. The end result may be similiar to a transparent paint.
 
  #9  
Old 11-25-08, 12:14 PM
D
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Sorry for the confusion! I indeed did strip the baniser, but only about 2 feet of it! I didn't want to go the whole nine yards only to find out I couldn't do this! So please bear with me here..if I understand you correctly, I sand, strip, THEN apply serveral coats of minwax. You mentioned you first put on a clear poly to control the color..then apply minwax..but if minwax won't stick to the poly on my railing now, how come it does when you do it? sorry to be thick as two short planks here, but I really am a novice doItyourselfer!
 
  #10  
Old 11-25-08, 01:04 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,782
Received 871 Upvotes on 762 Posts
Hey, we all had to start somewhere

If you stripped part of the banister - you need to strip the rest, that's the only way you can get an even looking finish.

Apply the stripper first, let it work and then scrape it off. Repeat if needed, then sand. Once it is all raw wood, you can apply the stain, poly and then polyshades. You can probably cheat and not strip the bottom of the rail - just use tinted poly on it.
 
  #11  
Old 11-30-08, 04:33 PM
A
Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 204
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
banister

One word of advice-- check carefully for drips as you go and brush them through with more stain or varnish, depending on where you are in the process. And, invest in a work light -- the bright halogen ones so you can really see how the stain takes.
 
  #12  
Old 12-02-08, 11:13 AM
R
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Virginia
Posts: 14
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
How long is the bannister? If it's not too long, I would consider taking it off to refinish. New ballisters can purchased at Home Depot or Lowes in the $3 -$4 range. You'll be glad that you did!
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: