Re-veneer a sewing desk

Old 01-26-10, 05:19 AM
rickarchitect's Avatar
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 54
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Re-veneer a sewing desk


I have an old sewing table that has the veneer peeling off, it looks like MDF under the veneer. I want to change the dark veneer and apply a birch or maple veneer. I have a couple of questions regarding the technique and veneers. I am pretty handy and feel that I can do this, ( there area couple of small drawers that I can practice on) MY question is I don't have any type of vacuum press, etc, just clamps and lots of scrap wood. I have read about "paper backed" veneers, and PSA(peel and stick) types and there is no clear answer on what to use for "fine furniture finishing" and there seems to be a conflict on the adhesives, contact? hide? titebond?

My other question is that some of the edges are curved (,2" dia) and some of the drawers have an S-curve to them and I would have to wrap the veneer around those curves, so my question is what would be the best adhesive to stick quickly. My intent is to have some overlap on the curved end and trim it after, so placement wouldn't be as citical.
Sorry to be so lengthy with the questions

Old 01-26-10, 04:07 PM
clockdaddy's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Frankfort
Posts: 201
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Veneering any flat surface the size of the area you have mentioned is difficult, if not impossible, to do without a press. Invariably there will be bubbles and wavy areas in the new veneer. I will, however, address a few of your questions.

First, let's address the thickness of the veneer. Using the process of applying veneer without a press, use the thickest veneer you can get. Why? Then thinner the veneer the more bubbles and wrinkles in the veneer will show. Thicker veneer is much less likely to show small bubbles or much wavy areas.

The best adhesive to use is a contact adhesive. Make sure both surfaces are coated thoroughly. Allow the adhesive to dry to the touch. When the veneer is applied to the surface the adhesion will be immediate. Once you've touched the two surfaces together there is no repositioning the veneer. Apply the veneer by rolling it the surface with a veneer roller and make sure you roll the surface thoroughly and completely. Whether the surface is flat or curved, the application of the veneer is the same.

When you are positioning the veneer, put dowell rods between the surface of the wood and the veneer. This will allow you to start rolling on the veneer from one end and gradually applying it by pulling out one dowell rod at a time while you roll the surface of the veneer. This method helps to prevent most bubbles and wavyness.

By all means, practice, practice, and practice some more. Start with small areas and gradually work to larger surfaces.
Best of luck.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Your question will be posted in: