Help with crack in kitchen cabinet (pics inside)
#1
01-07-13, 02:34 PM
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Help with crack in kitchen cabinet (pics inside)
Hey guys. Looking fro a little help. So the other day, while the kitchen door was open, I walked into it decently hard and believe I caused it to crack a little on the wood. (see pics). Im wondering the best way to fix.
My thoughts were to:
-Remove door
-Insert wood glue into hole
-Clamp down with some Irwin clamps
-Possibly add some wood screws from the back going forward (#6 5/8" seems to be a good size)
Im just worried that the additional srews may cause more stress? Also if I do use the screws should I insert them while the glue is still drying? And should I do it while its clamped? Alternative is to fill with clue, clamp, and let dry before doing any additional screws
Sorry for the dumb question, waqnt to be sure I get it right! Thanks
My thoughts were to:
-Remove door
-Insert wood glue into hole
-Clamp down with some Irwin clamps
-Possibly add some wood screws from the back going forward (#6 5/8" seems to be a good size)
Im just worried that the additional srews may cause more stress? Also if I do use the screws should I insert them while the glue is still drying? And should I do it while its clamped? Alternative is to fill with clue, clamp, and let dry before doing any additional screws
Sorry for the dumb question, waqnt to be sure I get it right! Thanks
#2
01-07-13, 02:43 PM
Super Moderator
No expert...but I'd just remove the door, inject plenty of glue, re-drill holes and mount the door.
Real hardcore might do the above then drill for and glue in dowels and re-mount door...but I wouldn't. At least not as a first repair.
Real hardcore might do the above then drill for and glue in dowels and re-mount door...but I wouldn't. At least not as a first repair.
#5
01-07-13, 02:54 PM
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gunguy, what do you mean redrill holes? I mean I was going to reuse the same one hole that is already there to reinstall.
Or should I fill that hole with glue as well and then redrill that hole? Wow now Im really overthinking this I think
Im clearly not good with wood so Im taking precautioning by asking all the dumb questions before its too late! haha
Or should I fill that hole with glue as well and then redrill that hole? Wow now Im really overthinking this I think
Im clearly not good with wood so Im taking precautioning by asking all the dumb questions before its too late! haha
#6
01-07-13, 03:06 PM
Super Moderator
Well.....if you inject enough glue to fill the crack (btw...taking off the door will let the crack shrink...so you need to spread it a bit by some method) it may fill the holes. Re-drilling slightly will prevent the screws from splitting it again.
#7
01-07-13, 04:06 PM
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I see.
How about this:
-Remove door
-Using flathead, carefully pry hole to make larger
-Apply wood glue, including the original hole for screw
-Clamp
-While its still wet, insert the original screw in hole then remove so it 'cleans out' some of the original hole.
-Reinstall door after a few hours/over night drying
Thoughts?
And you guys still dont think I need the 2 wood screws from the back of the unit right? Thx
How about this:
-Remove door
-Using flathead, carefully pry hole to make larger
-Apply wood glue, including the original hole for screw
-Clamp
-While its still wet, insert the original screw in hole then remove so it 'cleans out' some of the original hole.
-Reinstall door after a few hours/over night drying
Thoughts?
And you guys still dont think I need the 2 wood screws from the back of the unit right? Thx
#8
01-07-13, 05:18 PM
Super Moderator
Sounds like what I would do. If you have some syringes (like from a vet or whatever), inject the glue til it runs out. That will help it get back in to the crack. You could even leave the original screws in til the glue sets, it won't stick to them.
No need for the extra screws. And yes, overnight dry.
No need for the extra screws. And yes, overnight dry.
#9
01-16-13, 10:26 AM
I think your first idea was best. Use yellow wood glue after removing all screws. The chance that the wood glue will turn loose is about 50 years or more. Clamp for 10-12 hours. As Gunguy said, predrill. Here's how. Find a bit the same shaft size of shaft of the screws. You want the flutes of the screw to bit into the wood, so you want the flutes to be larger than the drill bit. Replace hinges and screws and have no worries. Good thinking.
Sorry, RFL, didn't see your post. You are right on target. Great idea and that will work. No extra screws needed. Yellow glue will hold its place while the surrounding wood will break. Gunguy and RFL have given you the right answers. HOwever, poly glue I would steer from. It's going to be messy. If you use the yellow wood glue, as it set up, you can take a chisel to scrap off the skimmed glue. Then you can sand it a bit to take it back down to the wood. You'll want use a fine grit so as not to disturb the finish too much. Fine grit will give you the time to stop.
Sorry, RFL, didn't see your post. You are right on target. Great idea and that will work. No extra screws needed. Yellow glue will hold its place while the surrounding wood will break. Gunguy and RFL have given you the right answers. HOwever, poly glue I would steer from. It's going to be messy. If you use the yellow wood glue, as it set up, you can take a chisel to scrap off the skimmed glue. Then you can sand it a bit to take it back down to the wood. You'll want use a fine grit so as not to disturb the finish too much. Fine grit will give you the time to stop.
#10
01-16-13, 10:33 AM
Group Moderator
I have a syringe I picked up at the farm and fleet store (for animals) and it is intended for injecting glue in tight spots like this.
