Need help staining pine molding

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Old 03-12-14, 10:19 AM
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Need help staining pine molding

Long store short, I had my oak wood floors stained with minwax red oak. All the molding in the house was minwax cherry best I can tell. So I used a polyshade on top of the modling and it was a big problems. It's just peals right off. So I desided to take off the molding and sand it down and stain it. I sanded them, cleaned them up and yes I did try a test area first and it looked grade. So I stained about 8 full side pine moldings. With minwax oil stain red oak. stirred the stain for 2 mins be fore I used it and every 2 mins or one molding i stirred it again for 30 seconds, I put it on and let it sit for 5 min. then wipe off. it looked grate, the right color and so on. Came back the next day and it looks like dark dark brown and black, it's really blotchy. I took it out side and you can't even see the red or the wood grain. It looks like I painted the wood. So I sanded it all back down to start again. What did I do wrong? Is leaving it on for 5 mins. with pine to long? Should I put it on and take it right off? Should I use minwax pre treat?

thanks
 
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Old 03-12-14, 11:40 AM
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I doubt a wood conditioner would make any difference since the wood has been sealed and stripped more than once. I generally wipe the stain shortly after application although a lot depends on how much I have to do and whatever is easiest 1 minute is probably an average wait time.

I'm not sure why the PolyShades peeled unless there was a containment on the wood, did you sand it first? I don't recall ever having the stain color change much after it's been wiped [other than when you apply varnish/poly]
 
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Old 03-13-14, 06:22 AM
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0k thats what I was thinking. I can try only leaving it on for 1 min.

thats what was weird, that it changed over night when it dryed.

No idea what happened to the polyshades. I did sand it qurick with 220 and wife and cleaned with a little soap. My guess is there was still oil or what ever on the molding.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28257[/ATTACH] this is how it looked.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28258[/ATTACH] same molding after I sanded it back down. All that really light wood is where it tured really dark brown. Its the same on the other molding and railing too. Where ever that light wood is, is where the darkness/bloting happened.
 
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Old 03-13-14, 07:05 AM
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and wife and cleaned with a little soap.
I wonder if she failed to rinse it, poly/paint doesn't adhere well to soap residue. The PolyShade was oil base, right?
 
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Old 03-13-14, 09:06 AM
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Yep eveyrhting I do is oil based.
 
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Old 03-13-14, 09:28 AM
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There is nothing about the PolyShades that would prevent it from adhering well to sanded poly so there must have been some contaminant on the old poly.
 
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Old 03-13-14, 10:37 AM
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ok,

any ideas with the pictures I posted?

thanks
 
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Old 03-13-14, 12:07 PM
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I couldn't tell a lot from the small pics There is clearly something going on with the discolored wood but I'm not sure what it is. How many pieces are there like that? would replacing the wood with new be practical?

Maybe a wood conditioner would help some, I suspect after it's stained and sealed you'll need to work with a tinted poly/varnish to try and even out the coloring.
 
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Old 03-13-14, 02:06 PM
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Sorry for the smal pictures.
[ATTACH=CONFIG]28279[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]28280[/ATTACH]

i only sanded 3 full size door moldings and 3 hand rails.

this is the only one line this. but all the rails are like this too.
 
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Old 03-13-14, 03:27 PM
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Was there any discoloration in the old stain/finish? If it won't sand out it will be difficult to make it look right. There has been a time or two that I have used 2 different stains on one piece of wood.
 
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Old 03-14-14, 10:16 AM
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Nope there was no differece with the old stain. My plan is to ge the winwax pre treat and try it on that molding and stain it. and see what happens. It says to leave the treatment on for 15 min.? How long should I really leave it on for? thanks
 
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Old 03-14-14, 12:53 PM
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While I don't often use wood conditioner when I do I usually make my own [thinner + sanding sealer] but I don't recall ever wiping it off, just applying it and letting it soak in. IMO if there is still wet conditioner after 10-15 minutes it was probably applied too liberally .... the 15 minutes should be fine.
 
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Old 03-14-14, 01:13 PM
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OK, thanks, plus I'm going to try putting on the stain this time with a brush. I'm thinking I just put to much down on the wood the first time with a rag.
 
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Old 03-14-14, 01:22 PM
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I've always preferred to apply the stain with a brush [or spray] and then wipe it, I've always thought it worked better that way.
 
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Old 03-18-14, 08:43 AM
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It worked. used the pre treat, left it on for 10 mins. the wood was sucking it up so there was know reason to wipe it off, then I applaud the stain with a brush, waited one min. and wiped it off. It came out great, it has that red tint to it. I did all the moldings and railings I had sanded so fair. I still have to add the poly but they look 100 times better now. I think I was putting way to much stain down with the rag. And the pre treat helped big time with the differences in the pine.

And after I sandded down some more molding I saw that before I added the polyshade, the existing color was not a color. it came off way to easy because what ever it was on there did not go into the wood. It was only on the surface.

thanks for the help
 
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Old 03-27-14, 10:00 AM
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I had a question on my poly. I put three coats on top. I used a brush and did two full passes from one end to another. I sanded with 220 between coats. The last coat is still a little rough. I also did one with a foam pad after two passes with a brush. I'm looking for a glass like feeling. Can I do a light sanding with 600 with out messing up the shine or the look or is there something else I could use? I'm using minwas high gloss also.

thanks
 
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Old 03-27-14, 10:07 AM
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I've never seen a need to sand wood finish with anything finer than 220. I'm not big on foam pads and don't use foam brushes but it's possible that they are depositing bits of foam on the finish. It's also possible the poly itself needs to be strained. Air borne dust can also mess up a finish. I'd sand it smooth, remove the dust and then thin slightly and strain the poly [or use a new can] and apply it with a natural bristle brush. If that doesn't fix it, you can sand it smooth and either use Johnson paste wax or furniture polish to bring back the sheen.
 
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