How do I get furniture to take the stain


  #1  
Old 11-20-14, 05:47 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
How do I get furniture to take the stain

I am refinishing a dining room set from the 1950's. I have stripped, sanded, mineral spirits and conditioned the wood for the stain. The table took the stain perfect matching the color as shown on the can. The chairs will not take the stain. I have done everything I can imagine to stain the chairs. I used stripper, wiped down with a damp cloth, sanded the stubborn areas and finished with a medium steel wool. Then I applied a conditioner. The furniture is still not take the stain like the table. It took the stain lightly but nothing like the color shown on the can.

I was told that some wood is sealed prior to staining and finishing and that I should apply acetone to the wood and this would remove any sealer that had been set into the wood.

Looking for any suggestions to make the chairs take the stain like the table.
 
  #2  
Old 11-21-14, 03:21 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,727
Received 851 Upvotes on 747 Posts
Welcome to the forums!

Are you sure you stripped off ALL of the old finish? What type of wood is it? Generally there is no need for a wood conditioner on hardwoods, it's only used on soft woods so the stain will be more even. Wood conditioner will also make whatever stain is applied somewhat lighter in color as it won't allow the wood to absorb as much stain.
 
  #3  
Old 11-21-14, 06:15 AM
J
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 3,860
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
Are you using liquid, gel, or Polyshade?
 
  #4  
Old 11-21-14, 06:24 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Yes, I used mineral spirits to clean the wood from all residue after all processing and then re-sanded an reused the steel wool on it again to make sure all areas were clean. I attempted to stain at this point but it would not take the stain as it was supposed to. It was after this that I attempted the conditioner and tried to restain again and it still did not take the stain. I have attempted on a different chair at a time with the same outcome each time. Not sure on the type of wood. It is wood but not oak, maple, poplar, walnut... unsure of the type of wood. Perhaps a pecan.
 
  #5  
Old 11-21-14, 07:15 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,727
Received 851 Upvotes on 747 Posts
Have you tried using a chemical stripper on the chair? it can be difficult to remove all of the old finish by sanding alone. Use of wood conditioner will always result in a lighter stain.
 
  #6  
Old 11-21-14, 07:35 AM
S
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 19,160
Received 1,273 Upvotes on 1,213 Posts
What grit sandpaper is your final sanding? It's possible to inhibit stain penetration by sanding with too fine a grit.
 
  #7  
Old 11-21-14, 08:49 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I used a 120 grit and medium steel wool... Same grit sandpaper as the table. I did not use steel wool on the table.
 
  #8  
Old 11-21-14, 08:55 AM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I tried staining before the conditioner and it would not take. Then, I was told to use a conditioner which I did but got the same result as without.

Step 1 - Stripper
Step 2 - cleaned with damp cloth
Step 3 - sanded 120 grit
Step 4 - Steel wool
Step 5 - Mineral spirits
Step 6 - Repeat Sanding 120 grit & medium steel wool
Step 7 - Attempted to stain... failed
Step 8 - Used Wood conditioner
Step 9 - Repeat sanding 120 grit & medium steel wool
Step 10 - Attempted to stain... same result - failed!

At this point I have brushed on the stain thick and let dry overnight... it has adhered to the wood but looks more like a paint than a stain. Used steel wool to lighten... better, but now a little darker than the table. It's not bad but not perfect.

I am out of ideas.
 
  #9  
Old 11-21-14, 09:07 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 45,727
Received 851 Upvotes on 747 Posts
Wood conditioner lightly seals wood so soft areas won't absorb more stain than hard areas of the wood. It is never intended and will not make the wood absorb more stain!

The problem with applying a heavy coat of stain and not wiping off the excess is it will never fully dry. The solvents in the poly/varnish will rewet the stain and brushing is apt to move the stain around giving you an uneven coat of stain. The only work around for stain applied too heavy is to spray on the poly and let it dry before proceeding further. You can buy aerosol cans of poly.
 
  #10  
Old 11-21-14, 05:46 PM
M
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: United States
Posts: 5
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Thank you

I am lightly going over the heavy stain with fine steel wool once it is dry and then spraying with a poly. I am hoping this will work and satisfy my customer.
 
  #11  
Old 11-22-14, 01:53 PM
D
Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 4,344
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
If you didn't use steel wool on the table and it worked out, why are you using steel wool on the chair? Stop using the steel wool. There is no reason to steel wool the chair after you sand and before you stain. Give the chair a good sanding to make sure everything has been removed from the wood. Wipe down with a damp cloth to raise the grain and then sand again. Apply stain. Try doing a small area first with this technique so you don't waste your time on the whole chair if it doesn't work.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: