Question on dyes vs. stains
#1
11-15-15, 01:59 PM
Join Date: Dec 2002
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Question on dyes vs. stains
Hello,
I have a 60's teacher's desk that i think is made of red oak. I am looking to achieve the gray finish (or something very close) of the cabinets in the pictures below. The company that did the kitchen said they used their own custom dye to achieve that. I've searched high and low on the internet for a stain that would get me close, and i've looked at a number of aniline dyes, particular one from J.E. Moser called Silver gray, but i can't find a whole lot of end photos where people have used the dye. I figured i would post up on here to get some opinions. I need to give my wife her garage spot back soon.
Thanks,
Steve
I have a 60's teacher's desk that i think is made of red oak. I am looking to achieve the gray finish (or something very close) of the cabinets in the pictures below. The company that did the kitchen said they used their own custom dye to achieve that. I've searched high and low on the internet for a stain that would get me close, and i've looked at a number of aniline dyes, particular one from J.E. Moser called Silver gray, but i can't find a whole lot of end photos where people have used the dye. I figured i would post up on here to get some opinions. I need to give my wife her garage spot back soon.
Thanks,
Steve
#2
11-15-15, 02:39 PM
The company that did the kitchen said they used their own custom dye to achieve that
#4
11-15-15, 04:18 PM
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Call around to the major Paint Stores. In my area there are a few that offer custom stain matching.
I use SW often and their ability to match a finish is amazing. This service is not at every store though.
I use SW often and their ability to match a finish is amazing. This service is not at every store though.
#5
11-15-15, 05:09 PM
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The thread that i found the pictures in is over a year old and some others inquired about the stain as well. Didn't seem like the company was very forthcoming other than saying it was a charcoal dye. I have been meaning to try the local PPG and Sherwin Williams. PPG was switching over their stain line a few weeks ago and SW is on the other side of town, so i haven't had a chance. Those may be a good place to start, though.
#6
11-16-15, 03:43 AM
Every real paint store [not dept] I've ever dealt with has customed mixed paints/stains.
For stain to work you have to have raw wood. This is best accomplished by first using a chemical stripper and then sanding last. Failure to remove all of the existing finish will result in the wood not absorbing the stain evenly. Dyes are mostly used in the manufacturing process and rarely used anywhere else. That look can be achieved using stain but may look different on your desk because of the different species of wood.
For stain to work you have to have raw wood. This is best accomplished by first using a chemical stripper and then sanding last. Failure to remove all of the existing finish will result in the wood not absorbing the stain evenly. Dyes are mostly used in the manufacturing process and rarely used anywhere else. That look can be achieved using stain but may look different on your desk because of the different species of wood.
#7
11-16-15, 06:39 AM
I would think to achieve a gray color you would first need to bleach the natural red hue out of the oak by using wood bleach (oxalic acid). This will leave you with a white "pickled" tone as a starting point. Then since you're looking for a uniform color & smooth surface, rather than the typical light/darker grain pattern of oak you'll need to fill the grain with a thick paste grain filler (looks like peanut butter).
Stains usually have pigment in them which makes them somewhat opaque and are good for hiding grain & density differences. Dyes are transparent and penetrate deeper. They change the color but not the appearance of the wood.
Whatever you do--get a red oak board from the lumber yard to experiment on.
Stains usually have pigment in them which makes them somewhat opaque and are good for hiding grain & density differences. Dyes are transparent and penetrate deeper. They change the color but not the appearance of the wood.
Whatever you do--get a red oak board from the lumber yard to experiment on.
#8
11-16-15, 07:47 AM
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I was thinking i might need to bleach it as well. The Koto veneer they used in the kitchen seems to have more of a yellow pine tone to it in natural form.
