Fixing a teak oil refinish that didn't turn out well

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Old 12-02-17, 03:19 PM
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Question Fixing a teak oil refinish that didn't turn out well

A couple of months ago, I refinished my teak dining table by rubbing on 4-5 coats of teak oil with fine steel wool (the finish kept soaking in, leaving some dry spots, so kept doing more coats). I did the same process about 5 years ago and it worked really well. This time, the finished turned out sticky or 'tacky'. Even 6+ weeks later, glasses, dishes and vases left on the table for 10+ minutes are 'stuck' to it.

I used the same can of teak oil that I used 5 years ago. I'm guessing that something happened to the oil during the past 5 years I stored it in my garage. I live in a mild climate, but it occasionally gets pretty cold or hot.

So, now that I have a table with this 'tacky' finish, what's the best way to fix it?

I'm thinking that I should wet sand the finish with a new can of teak oil and then apply a new finish coat with the new oil.

Sound like a good idea? Better ideas? Anyone dealt with this problem before?
 
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Old 12-02-17, 07:38 PM
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I don't use teak oil much, but from what I can find on the topic, you have 2 choices... you can clean the surface with mineral oil and fine steel wool, wIping the excess, and repeating this process until it's clean. The let it dry and start over.

Or, try a new can of teak oil like you said and hope for the best. From the sounds of it, the fresh teak oil may sometimes have enough solvents in it to remove the stickiness of the previous coat. Problem is... if you put on 4-5 sticky coats, I doubt one coat of new teak oil will correct all that.
 
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Old 12-03-17, 02:31 AM
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I'd try wiping/scrubbing it with mineral spirits first and then dry it with a clean rag. That might remove the excess oil as that is the mostly likely reason it hasn't dried completely.
 
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Old 12-03-17, 05:01 AM
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Yeah I meant mineral spirits too, sorry.
 
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Old 07-22-18, 03:35 PM
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Thanks for the helpful replies! (sorry for the delayed response; I've been waiting for warm weather)

I went at it with #0000 steel wool and mineral spirits. It removed the sheen but, other (deeper) imperfections remain AND it's still a bit tacky to the touch.

I'm afraid if I put another coat of teak oil on, even if I rub it off right away, it will end up 'tacky' again.

So, now I'm pondering using my palm sander and wet-sanding with some 220 paper (I have a partial sheet of Norton 220 (it's not wet-or-dry), but I'm not sure it will hold up to mineral spirits.

Thoughts?
 
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Old 07-25-18, 07:58 PM
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UPDATE: Here's what I did and here's what happened next.
I decided to try wet-sanding with the mineral spirits and it didn't make much difference as far as removing the old coats of oil finish.
I considered buying some stripper, but decided to just try a very thin finish coat to see what would happen. I applied the teak oil with a cloth, so it was a minimal coat.

12 hours later, it was still tacky (drying, overnight, in the garage).
So, I set it out in the sun all day on a bright, sunny 80-degree day, and it dried pretty well! There were a few dry spots from the sanding/steel wool where I focused on some trouble spots, so I decided to put on another finish coat. (same story: still tacky overnight, in the garage, moved outside in the sun all day and it dried really well. I suspect the UV did a good job on the finish.

So, the finish is not very tacky, at all, any more... which is what I was after.

The only surprising side-effect: the main table top (it has end extensions) warped in the sun! It kind of cupped up on each end. It's only about 1/4" deflection, so I'm hoping it will settle down and I might load it up overnight with books on each end to see if that gets it back to flat.
 
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