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# Crown molding with vault

#1
06-20-18, 08:00 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 246
Crown molding with vault

Hi-

How do you position crown molding when the wall and ceiling are not at 90 deg?
Thanks, j

Last edited by PJmax; 05-18-19 at 11:08 PM. Reason: resized picture
#2
06-20-18, 10:13 AM
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With vaulted ceilings you need to use a triangular transition piece on your corners. Google that and you will find lots of pics. That's super advanced stuff.

#3
06-20-18, 01:36 PM
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Nothing like taking on the king of all challenges as a DYI'er. Yes there will be a triangular transition piece to turn the crown up the wall. So you have to know the angle of the incline so that you can work the math to figure out how to make the turn.

Would a plinth block make this transition easier?

#4
06-20-18, 05:00 PM
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First off I cant think of any house I have ever seen with crown on a vaulted ceiling.

On the ends the wall/ceiling angle would be 90 but where the sloped ceiling meets the wall the angle would be say 135 for a 6/12 pitch, crown is made for 90 corners.

Maybe there is a way to install a second piece on top of the crown but cant assume that would look too good!

Interesting question, will have to do some googling!

#5
06-21-18, 08:36 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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I think I just need to get some crown and take a look at how it all fits together. I see some people make a pie piece for the corners and some don’t. The thing I am not grasping now is how the top edge of the crown sits against a vaulted ceiling. I imagine that with a flat ceiling at 90 the top of the crown and ceiling are flush but for vaulted I’m just not picturing it now. Thanks.

#6
06-21-18, 08:48 AM
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On the wall with your arrow, the top edge has to be ripped on a table saw at the pitch of the ceiling in order to sit tight against the ceiling.

If you don't use the pie shaped transition you have to use different sizes of crown moulding. Or use ugly plinth blocks.

#7
06-21-18, 11:42 AM
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Join Date: Sep 2016
Location: USA MI
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for vaulted I’m just not picturing it now
That's the delima, the ends are normal, the vaulted are ?

https://www.doityourself.com/forum/a...1&d=1529606545

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#8
06-21-18, 11:46 AM
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Found some information, need to read in detail!

#9
06-21-18, 11:48 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 246
yea, so the wall with the arrow is like the second item in your diagram. This room is a mess with all sorts of crazy angles. it makes sense that it would have to be ripped so it would fit. didnt really see anyone taking about that in tutorials i have watched. i think im comfortable with all the non-vaulted rooms and will have to hire someone for this room. just too much to take on. thank you.

#10
06-21-18, 11:53 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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Thanks for the link. I'll take a look soon. there are videos online where people do it without the corner wedges but they aren't super clear on how they do it. something about tilting the crown a certain way. i think it looks better without the corner wedges but i would have to see it up close. I wouldn't want some wonky stuff where there are gaps or other weird things.

#11
06-22-18, 10:35 AM
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Location: USA near Boston, MA
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Several years ago I helped trim out a room in my daughter's house in California that had a vaulted ceiling. The beams were exposed and a board was mounted along the lower wall for recessed lights behind. That joint would be similar to your drywall-to-ceiling joint. The drywall on the sides ended against the bottom surface of a beam. That would be like your drywall-to-ceiling joint on the side.

We used a very small (2 inch?) crown (or more likely a picture molding with a rounded top edge) and left a shadow line along the top of the bottom (horizontal) pieces. As I recall we mitered the corners, lined up the top edges and trimmed off the pointed bottom of the side pieces to be even with the bottom of the horizontal pieces. I do not have a close up of the corner joint (other than expanding from the overall picture so it lacks detail) but you may be able to get the idea from the pictures. Caulking and painting the joints also helped to even things out.

Looking at the pictures, the trim on the side lands on the face of the baffle board. I think we added a strip between the trim and the beam to make up for the thickness of the baffle board.

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#12
06-22-18, 11:42 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2015
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I like those ceilings. thank you.