Table saw feather board location

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  #1  
Old 12-12-18, 05:38 AM
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Table saw feather board location

Hello all,

I have seen this video from a professional woodworker and he used two feather board. One is in front of the saw and the other is in the back of the saw. Based on my understanding, you should not put the feather board in the back of the saw because this may cause kickback.

Can someone explain to me whether his approach is recommended?
Thank you

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-BcvMpxOqqw
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Old 12-12-18, 05:46 AM
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If the feather board is behind the blade it may pinch the wood together and cause the blade to stall or kick back. I put mine close to the front edge and just before the blade.If only using one I put it in the front of blade. If new to a table saw be very careful of kick backs. I have a hole in a door from one. Use push tools at all times. Have a haft thumb to prove.
 
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Old 12-12-18, 05:53 AM
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I rarely use a feather board for no good reason other than I find it unhandy. I second [and third] the recommendation of using a push block! The tip of my right thumb is missing from a table saw mishap.
 
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Old 12-12-18, 05:55 AM
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Nothing wrong with it if you have a riving knife or splitter behind the blade.
 
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Old 12-12-18, 08:16 AM
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I have a number of feather boards that I use fairly regularly, and only use them before the blade, typically positioned so that the blade is just starting its' cut as it passes the feather board. I've seen guys use them on the outfeed side of the blade but never understood or saw a reason for it because although I always use the riving knife when practical it's fine with me if the kerf wants to open a little bit at that point. Seems to me that if you keep tension on the kerf it's going to increase the chances for burning and kickbacks.
 
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Old 12-12-18, 10:56 AM
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Yes, I bought a Ridgid R4513 table saw a few weeks ago. It comes with a riving knife and anti kick-back claws.

Thank you
 
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Old 12-12-18, 11:26 AM
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So just assuming since the saw is new that you might be a new user, and forgive me if I am wrong, but a few other thoughts. First thing with a tablesaw is to remember that it is a stationary tool, so you want a good stand, bench, or whatever for it; do not use for example an upside down trashcan. You’ve heard it before, but never wear gloves or other news articles of clothing when operating a table saw. I have a good friend who definitely knew better, who has three shorter than original digits due to wearing gloves while operating his.
 
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Old 12-12-18, 11:37 AM
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Hello aka,

Yes, I am new to a table saw and thank you for your kindness. I will respect the tool and be very careful while I am operating the machine.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1...4513/100090444

Thank you
 
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Old 12-13-18, 04:45 AM
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I use the wheel-type anti-kickback on my saw, but you need a fence that will be able to mount them (mine's a retro-fitted Mule Accusquare). The ones I have came with mount plates you can attach and the wheel assemblies slide in and out so you can remove them when not needed more easily. The ones I see now don't have that mount plate apparently:

https://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-W11...a-496781917612
 
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Old 12-13-18, 06:43 AM
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@t_t_g:
Board Buddies still come with mount bases. Zoom in on the linked photo. Maybe you mean the long mounting rail? Also still available--see the "Frequently Bought Together" box below the main description.
 
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Old 12-13-18, 02:06 PM
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You're welcome, q, and In that case I'll add a couple of other things I would have continued with yesterday morning as well, but was on a jobsite, waiting for an engineer, and he rolled up so needed to catch him before he left. Eye protection is of course always good, particularly for sheet material like plywood, mdf, etc. Your saw probably came with a general purpose blade, and they generally perform fine, but there are a lot of options, so it's worth googling, particularly if you have any specific projects in mind. I also suggest googling table saw sleds and push sticks. Sleds make for easier and more accurate crosscuts, and push sticks you can buy, but I have always made my own because as you will see if you look, and as you will learn as you go, you can potentially encounter a lot of different situations, and you don't want to take shortcuts when it comes to protecting your fingers, thumbs, or whole hands from the blade. And the list of accessories that you can buy or make yourself is endless, such as tenon jigs, etc., but the next two things I would recommend looking at, all depending on how you see yourself using the saw, is a table extension and some manner of outfeed support, whether a platform or stand(s). Great tool, the center of a good workshop as far as I am concerned, but just remember to work safe and work smart.
 
  #12  
Old 12-17-18, 07:44 AM
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Hello all,

I made my first cut and ripped 2x4 into 2x2 and it turns out great.
Now, a few new questions pop up.

Q1> What is the main usage of the feather board?
I placed a lot of force on the feather board against the board so that the board cannot move backward.
However, the problem is that I find it is very difficult to move the board forward and I have concerned the pressure may finally damage my saw fence.
I got mixed information through the web. Some people say the feather board can be used to prevent kickback and other people say it can only be used
to push the board against the fence.

So what is your idea on this one?


Q2> What is the recommended dust collection for a home DIY?
option 1> make one ZERO clearance throw-plate?
option 2> connect the saw to a shop vac?
option 3> close the gap under the Ridgid table saw dust house?

I found lots of dust accumulated on the table saw surface while I ripped the 2x4.
Also, I just realized that the R4513 dust port is 2" but Ridgid shop vac is of size 2 1/2".
What methods do you recommended for the home DIY to use to cut the dust accumulation?

Thank you
 
  #13  
Old 12-17-18, 09:08 AM
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In my opinion the purpose of a featherboard is to keep the work piece against the fence. It should be tight enough that the board passes through with moderate pressure, not so tight that you have to push hard. The "feathers" will bend slightly.

The kickback pawls at the rear of the blade are the main kickback prevention. Until the work piece reaches them the feather board may provide some kickback prevention but that is not its prime purpose.

For dust collection on a saw that I have in my vacation home I just suspend a plastic trash bag below the saw on whatever bolts or angles I find there that are near the perimeter of the housing.

A shop vac connected to the exhaust duct will work but will probably fill up quickly. PVC fittings in the plumbing dept. can be used to make the connections.

It might be possible to connect a cloth filter bag to your outlet duct.
 
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