Bubbled veneer repair


  #1  
Old 04-25-19, 06:15 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Australie
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Bubbled veneer repair

Hi there

Due to a massive rain, the veneer of my side table bubbled. It looks like the layer under the veneer (which seems to be made of compressed wood particles) has swollen up from the inside, and I'd like to make it flat again.
Would you have some advice to repair it?
Thanks a lot!

Name:  s1.jpg
Views: 150
Size:  38.0 KB

Name:  s2.jpg
Views: 151
Size:  63.7 KB

Name:  s3.jpg
Views: 148
Size:  42.8 KB
 

Last edited by PJmax; 04-25-19 at 06:37 PM. Reason: resized pictures
  #2  
Old 04-25-19, 06:39 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 62,557
Received 1,599 Votes on 1,473 Posts
Welcome to the forums from down under.

That does look like particle board and unfortunately when it gets wet it expands like a sponge.
We'll have to see what the pros say.
 
  #3  
Old 04-25-19, 08:34 PM
S
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: WI/MN
Posts: 19,641
Received 98 Votes on 86 Posts
That's one of the reasons we hate particle board....
 
  #4  
Old 04-25-19, 08:44 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 27,333
Received 990 Votes on 901 Posts
Are all 3 pictures showing the same spot? One shows no trim...

Assuming when you push on it with your hand it does not lay down, then yeah the particle board has swollen and its ready for the dump. The only thing you could possibly try would be to undercut the veneer and particle board with an oscillating multitool saw blade... trying to make a kerf under it that is approximately the same width as the bubble is high. You would need to do this very carefully and test how much you are removing by testing whether or not you need to widen (or deepen) the kerf and cut more out... if you push it down and it is still humped, cut more out... if it dips down you cut too much out.

Once you make the kerf cut to the right depth you would then inject it with wood glue, spread it around the kerf with a thin putty knife, then place a block of wood over the top (don't get any glue on this block!) along with several bar clamps, screwed down tight. Wipe any glue that squeezes out before it dries with a clean wet rag. After 24 hours, remove the clamps and see if it helped. If not, it's no loss.
 
  #5  
Old 04-25-19, 08:49 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 62,557
Received 1,599 Votes on 1,473 Posts
I was wondering the same thing. Did the water enter the back and travel to the front or just run down the front and back. The middle picture looks like the 1/4" hardboard used on the backs of furniture.
 
  #6  
Old 04-25-19, 08:51 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 27,333
Received 990 Votes on 901 Posts
That makes sense... you can see the streak left by the water... running from the back to the front no doubt.
 
  #7  
Old 04-27-19, 09:51 PM
R
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: Australie
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks so much for your quick answers, that's amazing!

So the first and third pictures are the same spot where the wood bubbled and the middle one was to show the composition of the top layer.

You're right, the water ran down to the front and that's where it penetrated deeply into the wood.

Yes exactly, when I push on it with my hand it does not lay down. Thank you for the advice regarding the kerf. I'm a bit afraid to definitely mess up the furniture trying to do it but I think I'll give it a try.
 
  #8  
Old 04-27-19, 10:06 PM
PJmax's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 62,557
Received 1,599 Votes on 1,473 Posts
See if you can borrow an oscillating saw. They aren't that expensive..... buy one to have around. The blade just vibrates so that it's fairly easy to control. They have many different blade types and sizes. The link illustrates the tool.

Youtube.com/watch?v=hF7EmgoCcpg
 
  #9  
Old 04-28-19, 06:02 AM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 27,333
Received 990 Votes on 901 Posts
You will need to remove that trim piece from the front in order to undercut the particle board. I am picturing you making the cut at least 1/8" - 1/4" below the veneer so that there is no danger of the blade accidentally coming up through the surface of the veneer. In back, this will mean cutting into the backing material a little bit, as least where the sides of the bubble taper down to nothing.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: