wobbly oak chair legs
#1
06-26-01, 07:15 AM
I'm in the process of refinishing an oak table and chairs. The chairs are wobbly, the legs and the backs, they are put together with wedges and i'm not sure how to get the wedges out without damaging the chairs or how to replace them properly. The legs are put in a hole in the bottom of the chair that goes all the way through to the bottom of the chair and thats where you see the wedge. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thats Binky.
#2
06-27-01, 07:06 PM
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Binky:
Getting the lpiece apart is relatively eay, but it means destroying the wedges, which you'll have to manufacture and replace.
If you feel up to it, drop by and let me know and I'll explain the methods I sue.
Getting the lpiece apart is relatively eay, but it means destroying the wedges, which you'll have to manufacture and replace.
If you feel up to it, drop by and let me know and I'll explain the methods I sue.
#3
06-28-01, 04:42 AM
yes I'm interested, I figured I would have to destroy the wedges but didn't know exactly how to go about it without damaging the leg or chair bottom. Also should I redo them all or just the loose ones because it would really help in refinishing the bottoms of the chairs. Thanks Binky.
#4
06-28-01, 02:56 PM
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Binky:
The first thing I would try is to knock the piece apart with a rubber mallet or 'dead blow' hammer. Many times this can be accomplished on older pieces without damage. It's my preferred method.
If that doesn't work, or you'd rather not even try, use a small drill bit to bore a series of holes in the blunt end of each wedge. Don't worry about going too deep. Next, take a chisel and play 'connect the dots' (the dots being the holes you just drilled) - the object being to collapse the wedge. Once this is done you should be able to separate the parts and pull the pieces apart, removing the scraps of the wedge along the way.
Reassembly is where the fun comes in - making the wedges. Use oak - not only because it matches the furniture, but because it's extremely hard and will hold up.
The new wedges (you may have to make more than one size, but probably not) should be as wide as the slot they fit into, and as long as the slot is deep. The broad end (that you'll drive with a hammer) should no more than 1-1/4 times as wide as the slot itself. On softer woods you could go as wide as 1-1/3 - but this is oak, and it doesn't move easily.
Needless to say, all old glue (if there is any) should be cleaned out before starting reassembly. Glue should be applied around the leg where it fits into the seat, as well as into the slot where the wedge will go.
Place the legs in the holes and drive them in as far as you can into the seat. Turn the chair right side up and drive each wedge in. Normally, I'll start the wedge with a regular hammer - just tapping it into place. Once it's started, I'll place a scrap board across the top of the wedge so I can really turn loose and hit it without worrying about denting the furniture.
If there are any stretchers between the legs, they should be taken apart, cleaned and reglued just prior to reinserting the legs in the seat. If you've made the wedges the right thickness, they should be difficult (but not impossible) to drive flush. If you can't drive them quite flush and the joinery is tight, let it dry completely and trim off the excess wedge with a hacksaw blade held in your hand.
The first thing I would try is to knock the piece apart with a rubber mallet or 'dead blow' hammer. Many times this can be accomplished on older pieces without damage. It's my preferred method.
If that doesn't work, or you'd rather not even try, use a small drill bit to bore a series of holes in the blunt end of each wedge. Don't worry about going too deep. Next, take a chisel and play 'connect the dots' (the dots being the holes you just drilled) - the object being to collapse the wedge. Once this is done you should be able to separate the parts and pull the pieces apart, removing the scraps of the wedge along the way.
Reassembly is where the fun comes in - making the wedges. Use oak - not only because it matches the furniture, but because it's extremely hard and will hold up.
The new wedges (you may have to make more than one size, but probably not) should be as wide as the slot they fit into, and as long as the slot is deep. The broad end (that you'll drive with a hammer) should no more than 1-1/4 times as wide as the slot itself. On softer woods you could go as wide as 1-1/3 - but this is oak, and it doesn't move easily.
Needless to say, all old glue (if there is any) should be cleaned out before starting reassembly. Glue should be applied around the leg where it fits into the seat, as well as into the slot where the wedge will go.
Place the legs in the holes and drive them in as far as you can into the seat. Turn the chair right side up and drive each wedge in. Normally, I'll start the wedge with a regular hammer - just tapping it into place. Once it's started, I'll place a scrap board across the top of the wedge so I can really turn loose and hit it without worrying about denting the furniture.
If there are any stretchers between the legs, they should be taken apart, cleaned and reglued just prior to reinserting the legs in the seat. If you've made the wedges the right thickness, they should be difficult (but not impossible) to drive flush. If you can't drive them quite flush and the joinery is tight, let it dry completely and trim off the excess wedge with a hacksaw blade held in your hand.
