Antiquing & Finishing Unfinished Furniture
#1
07-28-01, 04:54 PM
My new dining table is unfinished furniture. It is made of alder. I want to stain and age the top. I'm going to sand down the edges to age the top but want to do more. Do folks take chains and bricks to these tops to age them? Do I need to prepare the surface to take the stain evenly? If I want it to look like an antique, should I put a poly on after staining, or should I just wax? What about using an antique aging gel? You can probably tell this is my first do-it-yourself project and I need a lot of help!
#2
07-29-01, 11:35 AM
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Haley:
"Antiquing" or"distressing" furniture usues two main techniques, and you've touched on both of them, i.e. physically changing the appearance (sanding, dents, etc.) and adding finihs materials to give the appearance of age.
For more detailed information than I have room to present here, drop by the site below. If that doesn't answer your questions (or raises more), come on back and we'll have another go at it.
http://www.fauxfininshes.com
"Antiquing" or"distressing" furniture usues two main techniques, and you've touched on both of them, i.e. physically changing the appearance (sanding, dents, etc.) and adding finihs materials to give the appearance of age.
For more detailed information than I have room to present here, drop by the site below. If that doesn't answer your questions (or raises more), come on back and we'll have another go at it.
http://www.fauxfininshes.com
#4
08-04-01, 06:14 PM
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Haley:
First step is to look at some antiques. Look to see how they're worn, and where. Dining room tables usually wear fairly uniformly, but pay particular attention to the edges of the top, and any sharp corners to the legs - they wear also. Dents, etc, can be added to the raw woodbefore staining, or after. If you want it to look authentic, this part is better done after staining and after the first coat of finish has been applied.
Denting the wood before staining will cause the stain to take unevenly - the dented areas will be darker, regardless of the color applied.
Something else you might notice. The edges of old furniture that caught the most wear and tear are lighter than the surrounding wood. The finish has been worn off, part of the stain, and because of the wear, dirt hasn't accumulated as it can in protected areas. For the same reasons, raised panels on old case work generally are darker than the surrounding wood - polish, wax, dirt, etc., has gathered in these areas. This effect is often 'faked' on new furniture using a glaze.
If you want the 'worn' edges to be lighter than the surrounding area, you'll need to very lightly seal the edge before applying any stain - this way the edges won't soak up as much.
As far as physically distressing the piece, an ice pick makes dandy worm holes. A finishing brad (about 1" long) bent and laid on the table and struck with a rubber mallet will leave a random mark that looks genuine. (Use a rubber mallet to avoid leaving a hammer imprint). Don't try more than 2 or three of these marks using the same nail - someone will pick up on the uniformity.
Basiclaly, except where normal wear and tear would occur, physical distressing should be random - and that, believe it or not, takes a little planning. Just don't overdo. Natural aging takes time - plan your work.
Aging gels, etc., can be useful - read the labels carefully to see if the product will do what you want it to.
Drop back by and let me know how you're doing.
First step is to look at some antiques. Look to see how they're worn, and where. Dining room tables usually wear fairly uniformly, but pay particular attention to the edges of the top, and any sharp corners to the legs - they wear also. Dents, etc, can be added to the raw woodbefore staining, or after. If you want it to look authentic, this part is better done after staining and after the first coat of finish has been applied.
Denting the wood before staining will cause the stain to take unevenly - the dented areas will be darker, regardless of the color applied.
Something else you might notice. The edges of old furniture that caught the most wear and tear are lighter than the surrounding wood. The finish has been worn off, part of the stain, and because of the wear, dirt hasn't accumulated as it can in protected areas. For the same reasons, raised panels on old case work generally are darker than the surrounding wood - polish, wax, dirt, etc., has gathered in these areas. This effect is often 'faked' on new furniture using a glaze.
If you want the 'worn' edges to be lighter than the surrounding area, you'll need to very lightly seal the edge before applying any stain - this way the edges won't soak up as much.
As far as physically distressing the piece, an ice pick makes dandy worm holes. A finishing brad (about 1" long) bent and laid on the table and struck with a rubber mallet will leave a random mark that looks genuine. (Use a rubber mallet to avoid leaving a hammer imprint). Don't try more than 2 or three of these marks using the same nail - someone will pick up on the uniformity.
Basiclaly, except where normal wear and tear would occur, physical distressing should be random - and that, believe it or not, takes a little planning. Just don't overdo. Natural aging takes time - plan your work.
Aging gels, etc., can be useful - read the labels carefully to see if the product will do what you want it to.
Drop back by and let me know how you're doing.
#5
08-05-01, 08:15 AM
George, Thanks for the great ideas and advice. I am so impressed by folks like you who are so willing to give so much of your time to help others. It's amazing. I'll be sure to let you know how it goes. Now I'm off to get some brads, an ice pick, and a rubber mallet...
