liquid stripper
#1
liquid stripper
Hi,
I just got the name of a liquid stripper for furniture refinishing but
couldn't find it on the Web. The person who told me about it said
it is called "Ornsby" or "Hornsby," and they bought it in Maryland.
I live in California. I wonder if anyone has heard of this or a similar-
sounding brand name and if it is available on the West Coast?
Thanks.
Bob F.
I just got the name of a liquid stripper for furniture refinishing but
couldn't find it on the Web. The person who told me about it said
it is called "Ornsby" or "Hornsby," and they bought it in Maryland.
I live in California. I wonder if anyone has heard of this or a similar-
sounding brand name and if it is available on the West Coast?
Thanks.
Bob F.
#2
Bob,
You probably mean Fornsby (Homer) - it's at Lowes/HD.
It's sort of an involved proceess, you'll be asked to purchase the rest of the Formsby line in the directions. It's best use is for refinishing older semi-antiques with not much value.
Depending on the piece being refinished, your best bet may be a standard liquid or gel stripper. What type piece or you going to do?
fred
You probably mean Fornsby (Homer) - it's at Lowes/HD.
It's sort of an involved proceess, you'll be asked to purchase the rest of the Formsby line in the directions. It's best use is for refinishing older semi-antiques with not much value.
Depending on the piece being refinished, your best bet may be a standard liquid or gel stripper. What type piece or you going to do?
fred
#3
Fred,
Thanks for your reply. Formby's was recommended in glowing terms,
so I thought I'd try it. I'm wanting to strip a chair frame which is not
antique. I bought a product called "Bix" at Home Depot, which I found very
unsatisfactory. If you have any suggestions for an alternative to
Formby's, I'd definitely appreciate them.
Bob F.
Thanks for your reply. Formby's was recommended in glowing terms,
so I thought I'd try it. I'm wanting to strip a chair frame which is not
antique. I bought a product called "Bix" at Home Depot, which I found very
unsatisfactory. If you have any suggestions for an alternative to
Formby's, I'd definitely appreciate them.
Bob F.
#4
Hi Bob,
I've not tried the bix. I've used Citrustrip with varying degrees of success. The pastes/gels will hold to vertical surfaces better and it's always best to keep the product wet on the surface to be stripped. Most often the wait period is longer than the directions quote. A product called PeelAway has been highly recommended here. If you use a putty knife, use a plastic one - less likely to gouge the wood. As I remember, the Fornbys is used with steel wool and elbow grease.
Hey George, do you have anything to add.
fred
I've not tried the bix. I've used Citrustrip with varying degrees of success. The pastes/gels will hold to vertical surfaces better and it's always best to keep the product wet on the surface to be stripped. Most often the wait period is longer than the directions quote. A product called PeelAway has been highly recommended here. If you use a putty knife, use a plastic one - less likely to gouge the wood. As I remember, the Fornbys is used with steel wool and elbow grease.
Hey George, do you have anything to add.
fred
#5
Fred,
Thanks for your reply. I think maybe what you wrote:
"Most often the wait period is longer than the directions quote." is my
problem. I was expecting faster results. The Bix, even with the long wait
though, didn't remove much of the finish. I think I could have probably used the
whole can on two or three legs!
Bob F.
Thanks for your reply. I think maybe what you wrote:
"Most often the wait period is longer than the directions quote." is my
problem. I was expecting faster results. The Bix, even with the long wait
though, didn't remove much of the finish. I think I could have probably used the
whole can on two or three legs!
Bob F.
#7
Fred,
Thanks again for your reply. I first tested the finish with alcohol (as
recommended at:http://doityourself.com/woodfinish/surfaceprep.htm)
and it didn't disolve but I also didn't want to spend the $ on lacquer
thinner so just went for the [generic?] stripper which I thought
(mistakenly?) would take care of whatever it was. The Bix disolved it
VERY slowly and also not very completely, which is why I inquired if
there was a 'better' (i.e. more effective) product.
Bob F.
Thanks again for your reply. I first tested the finish with alcohol (as
recommended at:http://doityourself.com/woodfinish/surfaceprep.htm)
and it didn't disolve but I also didn't want to spend the $ on lacquer
thinner so just went for the [generic?] stripper which I thought
(mistakenly?) would take care of whatever it was. The Bix disolved it
VERY slowly and also not very completely, which is why I inquired if
there was a 'better' (i.e. more effective) product.
Bob F.
#8
The best stripper I've ever used for lacquer finishes(best being effective and economical) is a 50:50 mix of lacquer thinner and denatured alcohol. Combined with 000 steel wool and elbow grease, it's quick, easy, and cheap.
This is true whether the lacquer is catalyzed or nitrocellulose.
This is true whether the lacquer is catalyzed or nitrocellulose.
#10
Bob:
Depending on the thickness of the finish, I use brush or steel wool. On older pieces where the finish is relatively thin, I use steel wool - scrubbing an area about 12" square at a time, and re-wetting the wool as needed.
I cut each pad of steel wool into three pieces (being cheap) because it works better for using up the entire piece - it also allows fingertip pressure over the entire piece of wool.
Final wipe down is done with paper towels (I buy 'em when they're on sale, of course!) wet with the same mix.
If the finish is exceptionally thick, you might want to try brushing it on, then scraping - using teh wet steel wool for final cleaning...
Depending on the thickness of the finish, I use brush or steel wool. On older pieces where the finish is relatively thin, I use steel wool - scrubbing an area about 12" square at a time, and re-wetting the wool as needed.
I cut each pad of steel wool into three pieces (being cheap) because it works better for using up the entire piece - it also allows fingertip pressure over the entire piece of wool.
Final wipe down is done with paper towels (I buy 'em when they're on sale, of course!) wet with the same mix.
If the finish is exceptionally thick, you might want to try brushing it on, then scraping - using teh wet steel wool for final cleaning...
#12
PEEL AWAY 7 for stripping
A lot of information has passed back and forth. I would recommend you use PEEL AWAY 7 for your project and it will do the job in a single application. However, you are going to have to give it a reasonable dwell time and it sounds to me like you are looking for instant results. PEEL AWAY 7 is safe and does not contain methylene chloride so visit the web site at www.peelaway.com and check it out.