Raising the Roof - Expanding


  #1  
Old 09-05-03, 09:43 AM
FordsTowel
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Question Raising the Roof - Expanding

My two+ garage has a low roof and I need more space, mostly for storage. I'd like to be able to raise the roof by 3 to 6 feet to accomodate rafter area storage.

Six or more feet, would be better should I ever want to make it into a studio.

Is there a method for raising a roof without dismantling it?

Would I have to do more than add framing and brace it?

Thanks -
 
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Old 09-05-03, 10:10 AM
Doug Aleshire's Avatar
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FordsTowel,

Issue of raising a roof only and building sidewalls up is not an easy affair and is not advisable. It would be best to remove all that you have and top plate and install new studs to a 9 or 10 feet height. Depending on what you have now, new trusses can be purchased that allow for storage. Basically it is a storage truss designed to carry load over the bottom chord.

In addition, exterior finish issues will have to be done. Applying a short wall atop what you now have is allowable but only with continuous wall sheathing to provide adequate bracing.

One thing to note is height restrictions. As you are from Garden City, it is probably 15 ft from grade to mid-point of the truss. Ensure that you have the ability to do this and of course, a building permit would be required.

Hope this helps!
 
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Old 09-05-03, 10:34 AM
FordsTowel
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Thanks Doug!

Well, that certainly was not what I was most hoping to hear, but pretty much what I expected. Not your fault, of course; I really appreciate the reality check.

Looking at your suggestion, perhaps I should just replace the roof, with storage friendly trusses?

Perhaps I could add dormer-style gables on either side, though this would not increase the upper headroom?

Incidentally, I have been surprised to see the number of (what look like) 2-story garages, or pole barns in this area. Perhaps variances are available.

As I may eventually want to finish the interior, and since the builder nailed wooden siding directly to the studs (no sheath, no tyvek, no paper), I had really hoped I might, at worst, be able to take it down to the current frame and use new sheathing to reinforce an upward addtion, and re-side (the house will need it in a couple of years, anyway).

Ah, well, maybe by then I will decide to have it completely rebuilt.
 
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Old 09-05-03, 01:11 PM
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FordsTowel,

You're very welcome!

Sometimes the truth is hard to take but the reality is to know when you can do things wrong and do things right! Trying to make due with salvaged materials is wrong and a waste of time. Damage can be done in removal and in some cases will not pass code.

Variances are not all that easy to get and you have to pay some bucks just to request a variance. Fees can be $500 on up, at least around here, to get the board to meet once a month. I just got a schedule for one project. The application must be submitted by Sept 17th and the board meets on October 8th. They want 10 sets of blueprints ready for submittal with the application request - that is 11 pages per set of 24x36 sheets! Cost for variance request is $500 alone and if you don't get the variance, you don't get a refund! So requesting a variance is an issue to be thought out carefully.

Thanks for the feedback!
 
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Old 11-07-03, 02:36 PM
FordsTowel
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Raising the Roof - Expanding

Hi again, Doug. Doug here.

Good news, bad news from the city building office.

I have a 20x20 slab and garage. If I want to build a new garage, It has to be built to current codes. This means a 3' from border code, and a 32" footing for anything larger than 20x20.

I certainly do not want to move the garage, or break up the old slab to pour a new one.

That's the bad news. The good news is that the max height is 21', not 15' as I had feared.

I am thinking, again, about changing the roofline. This would not necessitate repouring.

Do you suppose that I could remove the roof, and make new, custom rafters that add the 6'?

Or, would my original plan of raising the walls be less problematic.

Third option would be to use house jacks to raise the garage and add 6' under the old footers.

I would certainly be interested in your opinion of which of the three options is more workable.

Thanks, even if all you can offer is another reality check.

Doug
 
 

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