Rustoleum Garage Floor Epoxy

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Old 10-26-04, 06:34 PM
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re[ly to mark

We are one week post application and all is well the grey trim around the edges worked out pretty well. We taped off an area down the middle apout 3 feet wide and along one side the other sides and top about 6 inches wide. we used a good quality duct tape to get a good line on the concrete. After the tan was applied to the two sides and the second coat applied, different problem, we used blue painters tape on the fresh coat to prevent pulling up the fresh epoxy. I did not paint over the color in the middle, therefore no additional cleaning was neccessary It looks good.

The two coats were neccesary due to a color match problem. Rustoleum did refund the cost of the second coat very promptly after our call to them.

Last edited by 26T; 10-26-04 at 06:40 PM. Reason: answere additional question
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Old 11-24-04, 09:13 PM
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Red face Rustoleum garage floor epoxy

We have a 2-car garage that had some kind of very old paint on the floor. Apparently previous owners had not done something right because it peeled off from hot tires. It was pretty worn down and beat up but not coming off. I prepped as directions say to but seemed like the more water that was put on, the more paint started to peel in spots. Rented a pressure washer and cleaned floor. I did NOT get all the paint off...just where it was freely peeling. I used gunk off to clean up grease spots and I sanded some areas to make sure it was clean.

I added Shark Grip (2 cans) and mixed 2 kits together. I painted about a 4 x 4 area and then sprinkled paint chips. It only took me about an hour to paint. The longest time spent was the prep work. It was dry to walk on the next day but we stayed off it anyway. I live in Florida so it was about 75 degrees out that day. We did not drive on it for a full week.

It looks beautiful! I did it while my husband was out of town and surprised him. He says it looks like a car show room floor! The anti-slip stuff worked great too. It hides a multitude of sins...small cracks, etc. Time and the next summer will tell how it holds up to hot tire pick up.

I found that I had plenty of paint left and wished I'd gone over a few spots more heavily. I also put the paint chips on pretty thick but had lots left over.

I'd definitely recommend this product. The directions were clear and easy. I didn't even watch the video that came with it. I'll post again in a few months to let you know how it's holding up.
Old 11-30-04, 06:37 PM
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Thumbs down Advise against U-Coat-It

I used U-Coat-It and had a horrible experience.
The product is good but, they don't give you near enough of it.
It won't cover near the square footage that they claim.
It also goes on too thin and any floor texture shows through badly. They were very unhelpful on the phone. The clear topcoat also has yellowed badly under where the car tires sit. I wasted a lot of time and money (over $1,000) for my 650sqft garage with this stuff.
I would highly recommend avoiding this company. Please you guys, learn from my mistake.

Check out the epoxy at Griot's Garage.
Much much cheaper and a good company.

Originally Posted by CuriousGeorge
I have been thinking about doing this for a few years and I am actually planning on doing it this year.

I have been planning on using a product called U Coat-it. THey have a really nice demo on thier website.

It is a complete kit that comes with everyhting you need, even non-skid additive. It does seem to be on the high end in terms of cost. I have not priced the solutions at Home Depot yet.

I am really looking for a durable finish as I do not want to do the floor more than once.

I hope this was helpful.
Old 12-02-04, 05:56 PM
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Epoxy Flooring

I had to jump in on this one by the nature of my work. I am a professional engineer that works for an epoxy manufacturer and installer. Without going into too much detail, here are some answers to the most common questions that I found in this thread:

1. Moisture/ Wet floor/ New Concrete: No reputible epoxy manufacturer would recommend application of a general use product to concrete that hasn't cured at least 30 days, 45 is better. All concrete has a tendency to maintain a specific moisture level. As long as the surface has REMAINED dry after pressure washing, etc. at least 7 days, it would be okay to apply most epoxy products. There are specific products available for application to wet surfaces, but they are generally cost prohibitive to the homeowner, and are used for the most part in industrial/ commercial settings.

2. Slip factor: Various products use or recommend various anti-slip additives such as an aggregate. This can be masons sand, flint shot, or several others. Some of which may or may not have the estetic qualities that one would seek for a garage. Acrylic color flakes are generally not added to provide an anti-slip surface, but to mask blem areas. Some epoxies manufactured today can provide a very nice shine while remaining slip resistant.

3. Getting what you pay for: Some people think that merely "covering" the floor with a resinous material is going to hide the problems with the concrete. That is wishful thinking, and buyer beware any seller that states their product requires no time consuming preparation. The better the prep, the better the end result. On that note, Cleanliness of the floor will have a great deal to do with how the finished product looks and performs. READ ALL DIRECTIONS CAREFULLY, and regardless of which product you decide to use, wear all of the recommended personal protective equipment/ clothing. Some epoxies contain VOC's (volatile organic compounds) or solvents. During the cure process, those solvents evaporate, leaving the epoxy on the floor. Breathing them in concentration can be hazardous.

Good luck with your projects, I'll check in next week to see if anyone has any questions.
Old 12-20-04, 05:23 AM
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Originally Posted by 26T
I just wanted to pass on some advice that should be in the directions but is not. I needed 4 kits to do my 24X50 garage. I followed the directions to the letter from cleaning to not mixing ahead. I used the first batch and it went on well. the second batch seemed a little thin but not much. I continued with batches 3 and 4. The next day, Monday morning, I went out to the garage and it was horrible. The batches were all different you could tell exactly where I left one and started the next. I called Rust-oleum hot line and they said "as with all paint when using more than one can you should mix them all together" . Their suggestion was that you mix all 4 cans in a large pail and then pour them back in the original 1 gallon cans. Mix one at a time as the directions suggest. I did that and it now looks great. They did say they will reimburse me for the scond coat. I trimmed mine around the edges with a differnt color and it looks pretty good.
I just had a similar experience with the Rust-Oleum basement Epoxy Shield product. After applying three of their kits, a very noticable difference in gloss was there. My phone call to Rust-oleum was a duplicate of your experience. They answered: mix all the kits together than reseparate before adding the epoxy hardener.
I pointed out to them that information is not on the box, the cans, the instruction booklet or rust-oleum website. I am very angry that they withheld this valuable information until after I spent considerable time and money to ruin the appearance of my basement floor.

The fact that they have a pat answer "combine the kits" and a standard response "we will give you new product you just have to follow these new instructions" tells me that they were aware of the problem. My opinion of Rust-oleum prooducts is now UNSATISFACTORY
Old 01-15-05, 05:23 PM
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I am curious how the coverate has been? I have a garage that is right at the 500 sq foot mark. Will I come up short and need 3 kits?
Old 01-30-05, 08:13 PM
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Rustoleum Epoxy Shield Experience (18 mo's)

Here is my two cents worth contribution to this thread:
1. 2 years ago I applied HD Behr Epoxy coating to my garage floor. I had a horrible experience w/ hot tire pick-up and coating flaking off.
2. 1 1/2 years ago I decided to apply Rust-Oleum. To remove the Behr, I pressure washed to floor to get as much loose paint off as I can, followed this with manual 4" wide sharp edge scraper (any body who would've seen me would have thought I was going nuts), followed this with disc floor sander with the coarse sanding disk (rented from HD). Finally, I re-etched the areas that was subjected to hot tires using Muriatic acid.
3. Used two coats of Epoxy shield (400 sq ft garage, 2 kits) to re-coat the floors. Waited approximately 15 days prior to pulling the cars in the garage and used thick cardboard liners under the tires for another 20-30 days. In other words app. 45 days before my tires were in direct contact with the coating.
4. When I moved the cardboard liners, and have tires in direct contact w/ the floor, I experienced minor hot tire pick-ups again after about a week of use. Good news is it hasn't gotten any worse over a year and it is something I can easily live with. I also noticed peeling of the coating around the wall/slab seams close to the garage doors. This could be due to moisture coming through the seam
5. Overall, I am satisfied with the results, and feel that if I prepared my floor better in the first place, the result would have been even better.
Good Luck to everyone!
Old 03-11-05, 10:09 AM
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Originally Posted by divinguy7
Has anyone tried to apply this to a previously sealed garage floor? In tips area of the rustoleum website it says that it MIGHT NOT adhere properly to a sealed garage floor. I recently purchased the kit from HD, and i do not want to apply it to the floor if it wont stick right. Thanks in advance for your replies.
I have a sealed garage floor also, I called Rustoleum and thay said I would need to use a commercial sander on the floor to remove the sealant. I was wondering if you found out anything different, Like Muriac acid?
Old 04-12-05, 07:59 PM
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Thumbs up Epoxy Floor

I just did my floor last week and it is great.

I first swept the floor, got it wet and then used muratic acid on it. What a difference. The floor looked really clean. I then let it dry for 36 hours. I have a threee car garage so I did it in two sections, the two car and then the one car. I used the "Industrial" Grade from RustOleum. I think the difference between the home version and the industrial version is that the industrial version is solvent based as opposed to water based. As such it can hold a higher amount of resin and is therefore tougher... and more expensive. However I only needed to by two pro kits as opposed to three home kites It cost $86 vs. 56$ so it doesn't quite make up but it is close. I also used the antiskid from Valspar. A word of caution...this is solvent based material. the area needs to be well ventilated and no smoking or flames. Also anything that comes in contact with the epoxy will need to be thrown away. You could probably clean up buckets and brushed with paint thinner but why? Get a couple of cheap HD buckets and cheap rollers and brushes and throw them away.

I first mixed the two bases together to make sure of a color match them pour one back into the can. I added the activator and the anti skid and mixed for 5 minutes with a drill mixer. I think using a drill mixer is important to get a good mix of the antiskid. I let the mix stand for 30 minutes. I edged and then rolled it on. I tried to work quickly and spread an even coat. I worked in 3x3 sections and then spread the chips out.

A couple of things I learned. The one gallon of base and one gallon of activator in more than enough for a two car section. I was afraid I would run out so I didn't spread it on thick enough and you can kind of see the section seams. The second thing is take your time. First let the stuff sit a little longer and make sure you take some time putting it down. It will not harden that quickly.

For the one car side, which I did a couple of days later I let the mix sit for one hour and then put it on REALLY thick. I am not kidding. It was almost running down the floor. I did it in two setions and then threw th chips down. Worked great. It was still a little tacky the next day so I stayed off of it for another day but after that it was fine. Time will tell how it does.

Overall I thought it was great and I looks really good. Even my wife is impressed. I would recommend to anyone.
Old 05-05-05, 01:46 PM
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Seven Month Follow-up

Just wanted to post seven months after initial application. The garage floor looks as good as the day the epoxy was applied. The only thing that I would have done differently would be to have been more liberal applying the epoxy and the color chips. Feel free to apply a thick coat, and to use lots of the chips. You probably won't run out!
Old 05-17-05, 11:35 AM
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garage flooring

Okay, I have been reading all the threads above.
I was in HD today and noticed they have 3 products for epoxy shield.
1st is epoxy shield. one year warranty
2nd is called premium epoxy shield, which is a two step process. primer, then coating. two year warranty
3rd is called ultra epoxy shield, which is 3 step process. primer, coating and then a protective coating. three year warranty.
Great thing about the premium and ultra, is the color selections.
Bad thing is that it is only available per HD installers.
I called rustoleum and they are telling me that the premium and ultra is made specially for HD.
I like to know what they are using for the primer and protective coating.
Old 05-18-05, 08:30 PM
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forget the primer. Just prep the surface the right way (clean, muratic acid, etc). The protective coating is just another layer of epoxy. At most it has more solds in it but since this is HD/rustoleum we're talking about here im sure its just another coat of their epoxy.
Now mind you i dont have experience with this product but have tons of experince with 100 percent solds 2 part epoxies used by the pros. Do yourself a favor and get the real thing.
Old 05-18-05, 10:42 PM
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For those of you who used the rustoleum or other epoxy product on your garage floor, did you fill the stress joints before laying the epoxy or ???
Old 05-29-05, 10:38 AM
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I viewed the other threads on this topic, but have a few questions of my own I was hoping I could get some speedy assistance with.

I'm working now on a 2 car garage with the Rust-O-Leum Epoxy, gray with the color chips.

Cleaned the garage with their solution, and it's about dry and ready for the epoxy coat. BUT, I'm starting to worry that the cleaning solution didn't do enough to prepare the floor. It still feels smooth, not "etched" as I've read so many folks saying it needs to be. I bought muriatic acid, but the Rustoleum directions clearly state "Do NOT use Muriatic Acid". I keep reading that the floor needs to be perfect for this to work right. I'm in the northeast, so we go from hot to cold, so I want the floor to hold up.

Is there any more floor prep I should be doing here? Or am I just being paranoid? The floor is clean and dirt-free to the touch, still doesn't look that pretty though I think I got the dirt off pretty well -- I just want to make sure the SURFACE is prepped right and I'm afraid that their cleaning solution and/or my scrubbing didn't do well enough. Should the floor feel gritty, not smooth?

I'm on my way out to pick up an anti-slip additive, thank you SO much for suggesting that, as I honestly didn't think you could add it in. Thanks to this forum, I know you can, and will. I don't want my floor getting crazy slippery like folks here have said it gets.

Anyway, any other suggestions would be appreciated. My main concern is that my prep work and their enclosed cleaning solution wasn't good enough.

Any reply would be most helpful, and thank you all for reading!

Old 06-19-05, 11:41 AM
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Protective Coating Polyurethane

Originally Posted by chicago111
forget the primer. Just prep the surface the right way (clean, muratic acid, etc). The protective coating is just another layer of epoxy. At most it has more solds in it but since this is HD/rustoleum we're talking about here im sure its just another coat of their epoxy.
Now mind you i dont have experience with this product but have tons of experince with 100 percent solds 2 part epoxies used by the pros. Do yourself a favor and get the real thing.
If protective coating was another layer of epoxy, wouldn't it hide the decorative chips on top of the base epoxy? I called HD Installations 800-793-3768 and was told it is a polyurethane clear coat mentioned in HDs Installation Brochure for Epoxy Shield. I don't know, since I don't have a brochure. Could it be an epoxy clear coat, and she was mistaken?
Old 06-19-05, 01:08 PM
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Good Garage Floor Coating Site

Info here on prep, chips, non-slip, techniques and tips:
Old 06-19-05, 01:26 PM
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Wanted to Add

This info, from the site I mentioned above, sounds like they're talking about
Rust-Oleum's epoxy as a possible low-end water based product.

Unlike the water based floor epoxies sold in hardware stores, Water Bondô is slightly 'breatheable' letting vapor pressure from below pass through rather than 'lift' the epoxy. Also, Water Bondô has no 'induction time' (required waiting time between mixing and application). Induction time is generally a sign of a 'low end' epoxy. Also, if the induction time varies from batch to batch, the final gloss mould vary from batch to batch
Old 06-28-05, 06:54 PM
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Rustoleum - opinions after applying

'Just moved into a new house, and have always wanted to coat the floor. I searched around and found this site to get some input on what to use, methods, etc.

I was planning on using the Rustoleum anyway, and was glad to see all the positive feedback, which solidified my decision to use just that. I just wanted to add my experience, as I was slightly mislead by some of the posts.

This stuff shows lapmarks like crazy for one thing - maybe it was my technique - I did use the chips in hopes to hide any imperfections, etc. And most important, to the advice of seemingly the majority of the posts here, I used the silica sand for a tractable surface. VERY DISAPPOINTED IN THE USE OF THE NON-SKID ADDITIVE! I knew I was going to be washing my motorcycle and vehicles inside the garage this summer so I thought it would be a good idea, and with the multiple comments favoring it, I went ahead and used it. Its only been a few days, but I just don't like the "sandpaper" surface - it seems as though its going to be a major pain to sweep and keep clean, etc. Without the sand, footprints and general dust would be a piece of cake to sweep or mop off - NOT NOW. The gloss level is of course cut down quite a bit too.

Next time, I will NOT use the additive - NO WAY. Frustrating, especially after all that prep work.

Just my opinion.
Old 07-04-05, 07:28 AM
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In my last house I used a product from Sherwin Williams called Tile-CladTile-Clad It is a 2 part epoxy made for industrial applications.

The house was new but I still washed the garage floor and etched with muriatic acid before painting. I sold the house in 2004 and it looked the same as the day I painted it. It comes in a wide variety of colors. You will probably need to ask the clerk for a paint chart. In 1997 when I bought the product, it was in the back. I assume they do not sell it to the general public but by asking implys knowledge. I chose a blue gray and it was fantastic. I got great comments from everyone that saw the garage. I would highly recommend good ventilation and an organic vapor mask (available at lowes or HD) when applying this product. It is solvent based.

I did not use any anti-skid products. I've seen old shop floors that used silica as the antiskid. What happens is the colored epoxy will wear off the top of the sand particle and you will end up with tiny dark spots on the floor. A few years after I did my floor I saw one of the DIY shows that used a plastic material that was the same color as the paint. I would use some of this the next time if I can find it since the floor was very slippery when wet and I'm not getting younger. Sherwin Williams may have it now.

My new house has a shop area and the previous owner painted the floor. It does not have any anti-skid product. It is easy to sweep and since it is a shop, it should never get much water. I'm not sure what product he used but since I don't park cars there I haven't seen any problems. I do plan on painting the 2 car garage side in the next year or so.

Oh and the cost was about $100 to cover 400 sq ft. (excluding muriatic acid, roller, pail, etc.) I didn't quite get 2 coats out of the 2 gallons. I recoated about 4 hours later. I probably would have gotten 2 coats but I decided to also paint the 6 inch concrete "skirt" around the edge of the garage.

With this product, you mix it all at once. If you want to do a second coat, you can cover the bucket with plastic wrap to prevent the solvent from evaporating and store it for a few hours. The label also said you could do this and put it in a refrigerator to store longer. I did my floor before I moved in and didn't have a fridge. I covered the pail and set it in the shade.

Hope this helps.
Old 07-19-05, 07:36 AM
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Thumbs up Epoxy-Coat Better

I tried a do-it-yourself kit myself and it worked marvelous. I was warned against the water based stuff and I am glad I headed the warnings. I was intrigued by the Epoxy-Coat product that it claimed it was 100% solid epoxy.
And after seeing the threads on this site I decided to go with the more industrial strength product. It covered great and went exactly according to the directions. This product was thicker as it had claimed and I could use it to float out the bad areas. Now my garage floor looks like a showroom... I was glad to see now yellowing. My whole family loves it and I am doing my moms floor this weekend. You can get this product online at, the people there are very friendly and they will help you with about anything.

J. Michael
Old 07-19-05, 07:46 AM
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make sure it is epoxy-coat

I want to make sure everybody know to go to you must use the dash to get the right product.

Last edited by jerrymichael; 07-19-05 at 07:48 AM. Reason: my wife already posted 5 minutes ago
Old 08-09-05, 08:05 PM
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Epoxy Floor recoat

My floor is coated with Sherwin Williams Tile clad epoxy 3 years ago. It needs a recoat is there anyway I can recoate it or overcoat it with something and NOT have to sand or abraid the current coating?
Old 08-26-05, 05:06 PM
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Well I've found another use for the beloved leaf blower... Go ahead and quickly coat half your garage floor, start up the leaf blower and use it to blow the chips onto the wet epoxy. I was able to shoot chips 20 feet in a nice even manner.

By the way I'm using the Rusoleum industrial/professional solvent based epoxy. I put down one coat as a primer at the recommended thickness and the second coat is a double batch to help smooth out imperfections and get a thicker finish.

I am still totally amazed at how well the leaf blower did at spreading the chips. If you work fast you could roll out a one car garage and blow out the chips at one time. I would recommend doing a two car garage in two stages. It really seems to reduce the "keep a wet edge" problem. Just get the epoxy down fast. Run the leaf blower and drop the chips into the blast of air to shoot them around the room.
Old 08-29-05, 08:36 AM
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Rust-Oleum Epoxy Coat on Previously Sealed Concrete

What's the latest on using this product on sealed concrete? I picked up the Rust Oleum product form HD yesterday and then realized the warnings that were inside the box. The ever so helpful employees at HD had no clue if using this stuff on sealed concrete would be a problem. After reading through this forum and some web sites, I still haven't seen a direct answer if it's even possible to apply the Rust Oleum product to a sealed concrete surface. Is the acid etch my answer to removing the sealer? The sealer was applied about two winters ago. When I hose the floor down it tends to dry rather quickly although water does bead up on it.

I checked out and emailed their tech support. Here's the response I got from them in regards to their product-
"You have to profile the concrete first. Then you can apply the product. Only two ways to profile the concrete. shot blast or diamond grind it. I would diamond grind to remove the sealer."

This seems like much more difficult and messy job to start with.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Old 08-29-05, 09:30 AM
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Do not even think twice about it. It will not stick.
If the seal is old you maybe able to get it off with a high pressure- pressure washer combined with some strippers. Messy nasty job.
When we run across these types of situations we use mechanical means to get the seal off. Grinders, etc.
Mechanical is the best way but usually DIY dont have the right equip or time to do it right.

Dont mess around with the prep for any kind of epoxy product. Do it right or dont even bother wasting your time.

Good Luck!
Old 08-29-05, 06:22 PM
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Has anyone else had a problem with streaking and EpoxyShield?

My wife and I just applied the EpoxyShield to our garage and we can see a lot of streaking, mostly around each section I worked on. I'm pretty dissappointed because I don't remember reading about avoiding streaking in the instructions, and its impossible to maintain a wet edge. However, we did finish within an hour of starting, and we see streaking in both the beginning sections and the ending sections of our work.

Would a second coat fix things? Can I apply a second coat on top of the first?
Old 09-17-05, 05:05 PM
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Two Coats

I had the same problem when using the Rustoleum epoxy on my garage floor. Two coats did wonders for it! It looks like a sheet of glass now. The trick is to apply it evenly, and try to to it when it's 80 degrees or cooler. Otherwise the pot time is greatly reduced and it will have more of a tendency to show lap marks. BTW, I bought the Industrial grade and so for I am very happy with it.
Old 09-17-05, 05:28 PM
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I phoned Rustoleum, and they were very helpful. They reimbursed me for my second coat, and I am quite pleased with how it turned out.

Another note, since many people in this thread mentioned adding traction to the epoxy... I mulled over this for a while, and now am glad that I did not. I live in a dry climate, maybe snowy boots would change my mind, but FWIW I think the traction is acceptable in the normal product.

So happy that I did it...
Old 09-26-05, 10:50 AM
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garage floor coating

I found a good product that gave me many different options to customize my floor the way I wanted. You can view their site at or It has held up great for me.

You also can view some photos if you go to this address

Good luck with your project!
Old 12-29-05, 11:49 AM
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For those of you that have put down the epoxy floor, I am wondering how it is holding up and how you like it. The thread is a little old so it should be a good indication of what the overall performance is.

The are a few areas that I am interested in

1) Overall durability. Does anyone have issues with cracking, peeling, bubbling, etc? If so how did you correct it?

2) I have a table saw on a castor set so it can be rolled around. It is heavy though. I am curious if this would leave dents or wheel marks on the floor? Or even something like a shop vac, would that thing rolling around make marks in the floor epoxy?

3) I have a lot of crap in my garage, so I can't move it to the house and I don't want to leave it in the driveway for a weekend, so I am going to have to do the garage in two halfs. Figure one weekend I'll do the right half, and then the next weekend I'll do the other half. Ie moving my stuff from one side to the other in the process. So I am curious how your garage turned out if you did it this way. Obviously there will be a seam down the center separating the two half, but other than that, did it still look ok? Are there any functionality drawback to doing it in two parts?

4) The garage is currently unfinished, so I am also going to put sheetrock up. Which would you suggest doing first? Sheetrocking or epoxying the floor. I figure if I sheetrock first it might get wet when I pressure wash the floor. I figure also figure if I put down the epoxy first, the cleanup would be easy as the particles wouldn't stick to the floor, and if they do, I could just mop them up. Just not sure which one to tackle first.
Old 12-29-05, 12:40 PM
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forget the half now half later. you have to clean the floor with the chemicals that come with the epoxy, and you wont like the lap line it leaves. do the other work first and that will actually pre-clean the floor. the product works well. follow the directions and don't get ahead of yourself. i used a small handheld fertilizer spreader for the color chips and it worked great. durability is good so far - 2 years in a rental equipment repair area. the only damage was from a vibratory roller parked on the floor for 3 days. other than that, oil, gas , fuel, and other solvents have had no effect on the surface. the cleaning took the most time and effort. the coverage figures are fairly accurate but pick up and extra kit so you have it there while you're working. be prepared for a slick floor if you opt not to use the color chips
Old 02-20-06, 12:21 PM
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Clear Coat

I was in HD today and noticed they have 3 products for epoxy shield.
1st is epoxy shield. one year warranty
2nd is called premium epoxy shield, which is a two step process. primer, then coating. two year warranty
3rd is called ultra epoxy shield, which is 3 step process. primer, coating and then a protective coating. three year warranty.
Great thing about the premium and ultra, is the color selections. Bad thing is that it is only available per HD installers. I called rustoleum and they are telling me that the premium and ultra is made specially for HD. I like to know what they are using for the primer and protective coating.

In response to the Ultra Epoxy package, the top coat is Rust Oleum EPOXYshield Premium Clear coating as seen on I am still unsure as to what they are using for the primer. That product doesn't seem to be available as a stand-alone consumer product. Here is Rust Oleum's at home installation service website with even more information about the differences between EPOXYshield, Premium, and Ultra levels of service. Per the website , the Ultra level is
1) Epoxy Primer: Seals concrete and securely bonds the epoxy to floor.
2) Epoxy Coating: A 2-part, 100% solids. Easy to clean with MAXIMUM protection against chemicals, gasoline, antifreeze, oil, salt, humidity & hot tire pick-up.
3) Protective Clear Cloat: An extra heavy-duty, ultra-durable, clear coating that's specially formulated for the ULTIMATE concrete floor protection... Easiest to clean!

The Premium is just the first 2 steps (no clear coat) and the EPOXYshield just uses their WATER BASED epoxy and that alone (no primer or clear coat).

I'm seriously looking at coating my floor and trying to figure out whether to use UCoatIt, Permacrete, or Rust Oleum. It looks as thought the Premium level (solvent based) of Rust Oleum is just as good as the other brands just mentioned, but much cheaper.
Old 02-20-06, 01:44 PM
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MODERATOR NOTE: This post was originally started just shy of 2 years ago. It has/had some good points but is getting too long and products mentioned, outdated. Anyone wanting/needing more information on this process should start a new thread which would give information that is current. This post is closed.
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