reframing garage door


  #1  
Old 10-24-04, 09:11 PM
scott68
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
reframing garage door

Hi,
I am undertaking the task of re-framing my 8x7 flip-up garage door so I can install a 10x7 sectional door in it's place. It is located in the gable end and there is sufficient room all around for the new door, however I have run into a little problem. The walls are ~ 96 1/2" tall which leaves me 9 1/2" from the top of the door to the bottom of the top-plate. I am planning to use a double 2x8 header because a 2x10 would not leave enough room for a jamb. I am planning to use 2x6 jambs all around. Problem is using the 2x8 headers and 2x6 jambs leaves me with a 3/4" gap at the top of the door. I haven't actually started the framing yet because I don't know what to do about this. How should I frame it so that I get the right vertical height for the opening? Also, should I frame the opening to the size of the door and then use stop molding or frame it a little smaller than the door so the frame acts as the stop? The directions that came with the door aren't very clear about any of this.
 
  #2  
Old 10-25-04, 11:49 AM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: US
Posts: 367
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Are you intending on putting finish trim over the 2X8s and 2X6s, or are you just going to paint the rough framing? Putting the appropriate size piece of finished trim, such as a 3/4 " thick by 6" or 8" wide piece of pine around the rough frame sounds like it would solve your problem.

I would also call the door manufacturer for some more detailed info on framing the rough opening.
 
  #3  
Old 10-25-04, 12:04 PM
S
Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: US
Posts: 367
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I forgot to answer your question about framing the opening smaller than the door. If your rough frame is the size of the door and you use the 3/4" finish pine on top of the frame, then the pine acts as the stop. Just go to your local Home Depot or lumber yard and they sell a garage door weather strip that then nails onto the pine and the flexible gasket rests against the door to seal out drafts and rain.

It seems that you need to drop the header down 3/4" to get the rough frame to be flush with the top of the door. Add a piece of 3/4" pine on the flat to the top of the double 2X8 header. This will drop your header down while still maintaining the strength of the header. You then add the 2X6 rough frame to the bottom of the header and then a 3/4" pine trim pieceto the rough frame.

The result should be a door that has a 3/4" stop all around it which is created by the pine boards.
 
  #4  
Old 10-25-04, 01:42 PM
scott68
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
That sounds like the solution I need. Thanks.
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: