I am preparing to build a large shop this upcoming summer and am wondering what to do for the support for the 2nd floor. The shop is going to be a 36 (or 40)x60 gambrel roofed barn type shop with a full upstairs for a woodworking shop (50 psf load rating). I have plans for framing the roof with 2"x12"x14' from the USDA plans archive, I am not sure if these will pass engineering approval, but from prior experience I think that it shouldn't be that hard to get a structural engineers approval on tried and true plans. Also I have an option to buy a set of plans for $285 that would limit me to 36ft span but are already signed off by an engineer, and have actual Gambrel Trusses which utilize 2x6's and 2x4's rather than 2x12's probably would be cheaper on lumber but more work and jobsite built. The sidewalls are to be 14ft tall and the 2nd floor is to start there, I would prefer to have clearspan for the 36-40ft 1st floor for use as a auto shop, however the only way I can see doing that is with either 4 - 40ft gluelambs and running joists perpendicular to them, or by purchasing floor trusses. This is where a lot of confusion arises for me, which would be the better way to go for cost and ease of installation? I would have to go with 6x6's or 8x8's under the gluelams for support, whereas with floor trusses I would just normally frame the walls and only use beams where necessary. So I am wondering if also I'beams for floor would be ok with a set of 2 posts in the center making the span 18-20ft and running a gluelamb up the center... Anyway any advise would be much appreciated. Thanks! Sean

I've read and reread most of the posts on this board regarding garage doors not going down all the way. I have not found the solution to my problem. Like everyone else my door goes up fine. It doesn't matter if I use the remote or the hardwired button to send the door down, it will go a little bit then stop and reverse. If I am quick enough I can get it to start down again. Some days it may take 5 tries to get it all the way down, some days I spend 15 minutes before I get out of the car and lower it manually. Yesterday was the boiling point as I had to manually lower it and when I pressed the button to lower (not attached to the door) the arm didn't go all the way down to catch the door and my wife had major problems leaving the house to go to work. I tightened the chain as it was very loose and rubbing against the arm as it moved. Both lights on the sensors are lit and when I break the connection with my foot one light goes out. The downward power is at the max. The door is level when closed. The opener is 11 years old, Craftsman 1/4 HP and the door is large enough for a 2 bay garage. Tonight I plan on spraying the rollers on the door with WD40 as suggested by a co-worker. If anyone has any other ideas before I bring in a handyman please let me know. I do not believe the opener is shot yet as it has no problems bringing the door up. This all started when it got cold, but on the coldest day the door workd like new (one day only).