Sagging Heater Pedestal


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Old 01-01-06, 03:25 PM
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Sagging Heater Pedestal

I hope this is the right forum for this topic...

I need to replace the water-damaged and sagging pedestal in the garage that supports my gas-fired water heater and my boiler.

What could I do for a top surface that would hold a 40-gallon water heater and a boiler and that wouldn't be damaged by water should either take a dump on me? Can I build the supporting stucture out of 2x4?

I am looking for an idea of how much is involved before I plan the project next summer, and I can't peek underneath because it is covered by drywall.
 
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Old 01-01-06, 03:43 PM
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sagging heater pedestal

What is the present pedestal made of? It is doubtful you could have a wooden surface for either to sit on. It is possible to build the framework from dimension lumber, but the top would probably have to be of a fire retardant material. I would opt to build the base from lumber, top it with a piece of 1/4" steel plate, and back it (if it is against a sheetrock wall) with another sheet of the steel. This may keep the inspector happy. You will want to check with local codes before doing this.
 
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Old 01-01-06, 05:35 PM
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Hi Larry,

The pedestal is plywood. The outside wall is sheetrocked, as is the inner wall (shared with a washer/dryer closet inside the house). No fireproofing of any kind exists. Should one of the heaters pop or should a safety valve open, I'll have major problems in the basement as well as in the adjoining room. There is nowhere for water to drain, unless the concrete garage floor does not extend beneath the pedestal.

I was thinking about steel awhile back but had forgotten about it.

The house was built in 1982 in Grand Junction, CO, right in the middle of the oil shale boom. You'd be shocked at how fast these houses went up and what kind of shortcuts were taken to get 'em up.
 
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Old 01-02-06, 06:29 PM
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sagging heater pedestal

My daughter lives in Aurora, and the building there is like planting petunias. I know they may have put all this together without fire protection, and a water heater alone, may be alright, but with a gas fired boiler, too, that's a bit much to allow for error. That is why I suggested the plates, mainly for base support, and back heat protection. The water heater T&P valve should be routed to protect from scalding. Hopefully they have, at least, routed it to within 6" of the floor. There are products that, when installed in your main water line, will shut off the water flow to the water heater and beyond. A sensor is placed in a pan under the water heater and any water will complete a connection and activate a valve, shutting off the water. If there is an outside wall close enough to this room, I would route the T&P to the exterior of the house.
 
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Old 01-08-06, 08:30 AM
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Route the T&P pipe to the outside?? You'd think, but...

That pipe, and the equivalent on the boiler, just hang open. Probably why the plywood is rotten.

I routed the pipe into a bucket that, by the way, has to be dumped every couple of weeks. It's the 3rd T&P valve, so I don't know what the problem is.

When I do the job, I will route the pipe through the garage exterior wall (brick and all) and that should take care of any problems.

Appreciate your comments. Yes, the houses were slapped together rather quickly.
 
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Old 01-08-06, 01:02 PM
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You are building up too much pressure in your water heater, and should install an expansion tank asap to keep the t&p from doing what it is supposed to do, and that is relieve pressure to the atmosphere.
 
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Old 01-08-06, 01:42 PM
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Sagging Heater Pedestal

Routing a water heater pressure line into a bucket or anything is against code. The pipe should end about 6" above ground, be open and not have threads on it.

I am not sure if bends are allowed.

The world record for height of an exploding overheated water heater is a little under 300 feet.

Dick
 
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Old 01-21-06, 02:28 PM
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Originally Posted by chandler
You are building up too much pressure in your water heater, and should install an expansion tank asap to keep the t&p from doing what it is supposed to do, and that is relieve pressure to the atmosphere.

That's what my plumber suggested, so I told him to install one. Didn't help at all.
 
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Old 01-25-06, 03:36 AM
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Since your t&p was dripping prior to the installation of the tank, did he replace the t&p, also. I know you have replaced it several times, but it could have been compromised by all the pressure build up prior to the tank install. I hate to suggest it, but change the t&p as well. Have you checked the incoming water pressure from your source, whether it be city or well? You may have too much pressure to begin with, and heating it only complicates things.
 
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Old 01-25-06, 06:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Concretemasonry
Routing a water heater pressure line into a bucket or anything is against code. The pipe should end about 6" above ground, be open and not have threads on it.

I am not sure if bends are allowed.

The world record for height of an exploding overheated water heater is a little under 300 feet.

Dick

What I did is slip a 3/4" flexible hose over the end of the pipe and placed the other end into a bucket. The hose can flap around freely and is not restrained in any way.
 
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Old 01-25-06, 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by chandler
I hate to suggest it, but change the t&p as well. Have you checked the incoming water pressure from your source, whether it be city or well? You may have too much pressure to begin with, and heating it only complicates things.
Incoming pressure is 75 psig. The last time I replaced the T&P was after the plumber installed the bladder.
 
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Old 01-25-06, 07:28 PM
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I may be overridden, but 80psi is the threshold where things go bonkers. If you are at 75psi, you are inviting problems, especially after heating/expanding the water. You can live quite well at 45 to 50 psi, and could reduce the water heater problems. You can buy a pressure gauge that hooks to an outside faucet, and locating the pressure diaphram, reduce the pressure to a moderate one.
 
 

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