Problem with CHI Garage Doors and Sears Openers

Reply

  #1  
Old 02-14-06, 04:54 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Problem with CHI Garage Doors and Sears Openers

I recently had two C.H.I. garage doors installed to replace my older wooden doors. The contractor replaced the doors, rails, springs, etc - everything except the openers. When the new doors open they actually hit the rails of the opener and scrape slightly along the rails leaving a black streak on the doors. The contractor told me the problem is my finished ceiling height (88.5") was too low and that was the reason the doors were now hitting the opener rails.

Now one opener has failed because it jammed and the plastic gears stripped out in the Sears Craftsman opener. I could replace the gears or the opener but I know that will not solve the problem. I'm afraid the other opener will have the same problem. Also, why should a door hit the opener? I think something was not done properly here or another door should have been used. I contacted the manufacturer and below is what was communicated between myself and them:

From: CHIOHD [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Monday, February 13, 2006 12:13 PM
To: 'Pidgeon, Robert'
Subject: RE: Model 2283 Question


You have extension springs, not torsion, so you will not have end bearings.
12" LHR extension is the track you need to get in 3", it sounds like you have this. If you have questions, please call a door installer to check it out.

Regards,
Doug Pollock
CHI Overhead Doors
[email protected]


-----Original Message-----
From: Pidgeon, Robert [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:30 AM
To: '[email protected]'
Subject: RE: Model 2283 Question

The number on the side of the door is 843278 (Bill Reynolds Jr. Garage - they did not do the installation - my contractor purchased the doors from someone - I assume it was Bill Reynolds). There is also a number on the rails which is 809089-1. I did not see a name on the rails.

When my contractor tried to install one of the doors the first day he had a problem and went back to where he purchased the doors and then said that he had some of the wrong hardware or was not given the right hardware. He then installed both doors and I have the problem described below. Again, I saw in the manual the end bearing flange but it does not look like they are on the rails. I don't know what the problem is - I just need to know should these doors fit with the ceiling height I have and if so, then I will call the contractor back to have him fix the problem. Or, if he has the wrong doors or rails, then he needs to correct that.

Thanks for your help,

Bob Pidgeon

-----Original Message-----
From: CHIOHD [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Friday, February 10, 2006 11:50 AM
To: 'Pidgeon, Robert'
Subject: RE: Model 2283 Question


Please look on the side of the sections for a white sticker with a six digit code so I can see the actual door order. With the ceiling being 88 1/2, you should have low headroom track which takes 3" to put in, 2" or 1 1/2" on opener, which puts you right there.

Regards,
Doug Pollock
CHI Overhead Doors
[email protected]


-----Original Message-----
From: Pidgeon, Robert [mailto:[email protected]]
Sent: Thursday, February 09, 2006 5:17 PM
To: '[email protected]'
Subject: Model 2283 Question

I recently had 2 9X7 C.H.I. garage doors installed and was wondering what is the minimum ceiling height that these doors needs to be installed? I previously had wood doors and they opened and closed fine - once these 2283 doors were installed they have been rubbing against the track on the garage door opener and now one opener has stripped gears because it was jamming in the up position. I don't think the contractor installed the doors properly or if there is a minimum height requirement, he should have know this and then not install these doors.

I noticed in the installation manual that there is an end bearing flange indicated for low headroom assembly - it does not appear that these were installed. I do not have a front mounted torsion spring - the springs are on the sides of the rails and appear to be correctly installed. The one thing that's missing is the end bearing flange. Could this be the problem?

The ceilings are finished and are 88 1/2" high and there are Sears Craftsman Garage Door Openers installed (with Chain pulleys). I would like to know if you could advise me if the 2283 doors should fit or if they should not have been used for this installation. I will have to work this out with the contractor but was hoping to get some information from the manufacturer.

The doors are fine - we have no problem with them other than the fact that they are getting marked up and caught on the garage opener rail.

Thanks,

Bob Pidgeon


ANY suggestions as to how to solve this problem??

Thanks for any help in advance
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 02-14-06, 07:10 PM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 871
Received 11 Votes on 11 Posts
Ok you have 7 foot 4 and 1/2 inch from floor to finished ceiling,
1.How tall are the new doors?
2. How tall is the actual door opening height?
3.Did the contractor use Lowheadroom track?(this would be a double track going horizonal)
The plastic gear stripping is very common on that model and probably was on it's way out a long time ago
 
  #3  
Old 02-15-06, 07:55 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Problem with CHI Garage Doors and Sears Openers

Thanks for responding Doorman2722. To answer your questions:

1. New doors are 85" from floor to top of door.
2. Actual door opening (measured with molding installed from outside of door) is 83 1/2".
3. Yes, Low Headroom track is installed.

I remeasured the floor to finished ceiling height and found it is 88 3/4" - I was off by 1/4". But that means the distance between the top of the door and the finished ceiling is 3 and 3/4" - the rail (chain drive) for the opener sits 1 3/4" below the ceiling at the door but I see that it slopes slightly downward towards the middle of the rail (down over 2" from ceiling) and then goes back up near the opener. This is an older opener and not the one that stripped, but this is the one that is marking up the door (looks like the black paint is rubbing off the rail). The other opener has a different rail and is attached directly to the ceiling. It's a newer Craftsman model and still marks the door, but only slightly.

Sounds like I may need new openers - any suggestions? Also, any way to post photos on this forum - I took some pictures of the outside of the door and the inside showing the tracks and the opener rail.

Thanks,

Bob Pidgeon
 
  #4  
Old 02-15-06, 04:10 PM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 871
Received 11 Votes on 11 Posts
With 3 3/4'' headroom they are going to rub. Probably your old doors were a little thinner and may have rubbed as well. What's weard is I ran into this exact situation today, except I had 4 1/2 '' of head room, both low headroom doors rubbed the openers. I had to cut 1 3/4 '' of the bottom of the vertical track to lower the horizonal track down away from the opener rails and they still rubbed. I then had to cut the top off the bracket that attatches the opener to the front wall and moved it up 3/8 of an inch. Then moved the back of the opener as high as possible to the ceiling. They now just miss with no rubbing. This took me all day with a lot of adjusting and swearing. You may want to call an experienced door man. As for replacing your opener, I recomend liftmaster, chamberlian or craftsman. You said "one opener rail bows down in the middle", It is probably a three piece rail that bolts together, push it up with your hand and tighten the 7/16 nuts holding it together. I am not sure how to post photo's on here but it sure would be a help, email them to me, maybe i can think of something else with them. email: [email protected]


After thinking about this and reading your original post, Does the door just rub on the top section or is it rubbing most of the door all the way when opening? Replacing those piece together rails on a craftsman with a one piece rail from a profesional door Co. like a liftmaster will reduce any sagging and having it profesionaly installed, may get it up and away from the door
 

Last edited by Doorman2722; 02-16-06 at 05:04 AM.
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: