Opener hums, won't open door

Reply

  #1  
Old 01-16-08, 11:43 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Question Opener hums, won't open door

We have a Craftsman chain-driven opener, at least 6 yrs old. (Sorry, Jack, it came with the house.) When either the wall button or the remote button is pushed, the opener hums/buzzes twice and then goes silent. There's a yellow light on the back of the opener next to the transmitter reset button that's flashing. It flashes 5 times, pauses, flashes 5 times, etc. I imagine it's time to buy a new one, but thought I'd check here to see if I can get the old one to work in the meantime. Any suggestions? Thanks!
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 01-16-08, 03:42 PM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 863
Received 9 Votes on 9 Posts
is the opener in the open/up position?
 
  #3  
Old 01-16-08, 04:14 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 24
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sounds like the gear is stripped........Pull off the cover and you'll probably find alot of white shavings...Not too hard to change just have to drop the motor down to get the gear off.......Good luck
 
  #4  
Old 01-16-08, 04:16 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Not anymore. It stopped working after opening the door, but after we tried to figure out the problem, it is now in the closed position.
 
  #5  
Old 01-16-08, 04:31 PM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 863
Received 9 Votes on 9 Posts
Originally Posted by patsymo View Post
Not anymore. It stopped working after opening the door, but after we tried to figure out the problem, it is now in the closed position.
Not the garage door, the opener trolley. is it all the way in the up/ open position. Look at it closely I'll bet it is jammed against the 5/16 bolt, just in front of the motor unit. If so loosen the chain adjuster until it is no longer jammed against the bolt, run the opener down a few inches and then unplug it. Re tighten the chain, then you need to back off the open limit on the left side of the opener so the trolley can't travel as far up again.
 
  #6  
Old 01-16-08, 06:26 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 4
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thumbs up

I knew what you meant! However, my darlin' husband pointed out to me that I answered incorrectly. Duh. The trolley was indeed in the open position. We did as you instructed and the problem is solved (as you knew it would be)! Woohoo!!! I have no idea why, after all these years, the door would suddenly decide to open too far, but I don't really care. Thank you so much for your expert advice, Doorman!!!
 
  #7  
Old 01-23-08, 09:14 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Garage Opener hums but does not open the door

I too have a similar issue.

I have a LiftMaster 1/3 HP garage door opener. Until a few days ago it was working well. Now when I press the electric button or the remote button the motor hums but won't open the door. I am able to open the door in manual mode using the red string. In this mode it stops at all positions bot on the way up and down.

I did pull back the trolley a little and when I tried to operate it it moved to a close position. I tightened the chain a bit but with no avail.

Please help me undertsand what the problem could be and if it needs a processional to fix it.
 
  #8  
Old 01-24-08, 02:42 AM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 863
Received 9 Votes on 9 Posts
Originally Posted by bourne2diy View Post
I too have a similar issue.

I have a LiftMaster 1/3 HP garage door opener. Until a few days ago it was working well. Now when I press the electric button or the remote button the motor hums but won't open the door. I am able to open the door in manual mode using the red string. In this mode it stops at all positions bot on the way up and down.

I did pull back the trolley a little and when I tried to operate it it moved to a close position. I tightened the chain a bit but with no avail.

Please help me undertsand what the problem could be and if it needs a processional to fix it.
Your problem sounds like the plastic gear inside has stripped. see here http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=194172
 
  #9  
Old 04-04-08, 04:55 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thumbs up The motor does only a quarter turn

As advised by you I replaced the plastic gears that were worn out. Got the kit from Sears for $30.

After fixing it all up the motor just does a quarter turn one way then the other. What could I have done that makes this happen?

Please advise.
 
  #10  
Old 04-04-08, 05:43 PM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 863
Received 9 Votes on 9 Posts
That is an RPM sensor failure did you hook everything (Wires) back up properly and remember to put the black disc back on the end of the motor shaft
 
  #11  
Old 04-22-08, 09:26 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 5
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Everything is connected and in place.

Should I readjust the up/down screws?

The shuttle that moves between both the sensors does not move back and forth. It stay fixed in between both sensors.
 
  #12  
Old 04-23-08, 03:27 AM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 863
Received 9 Votes on 9 Posts
Originally Posted by bourne2diy View Post
Everything is connected and in place.

Should I readjust the up/down screws?

The shuttle that moves between both the sensors does not move back and forth. It stay fixed in between both sensors.
Then you forgot to reinstall the little white plastic gear that drives the worm gear that drives that little shuttle your talking about
With that said you still have an RPM sensor problem, because without that little shuttle moving and making contact, the motor would just run and never shut off. Not "just does a quarter turn one way then the other"
 
  #13  
Old 11-29-08, 06:10 PM
Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Doorman2722 View Post
Not the garage door, the opener trolley. is it all the way in the up/ open position. Look at it closely I'll bet it is jammed against the 5/16 bolt, just in front of the motor unit. If so loosen the chain adjuster until it is no longer jammed against the bolt, run the opener down a few inches and then unplug it. Re tighten the chain, then you need to back off the open limit on the left side of the opener so the trolley can't travel as far up again.
Mr doorman2722..I to have a similar problem. The trolley is not jammed and when I open the door manually it moves fine. how can I readjust it so the opener works again. any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
  #14  
Old 11-30-08, 04:04 AM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 863
Received 9 Votes on 9 Posts
Originally Posted by fav34 View Post
Mr doorman2722..I to have a similar problem. The trolley is not jammed and when I open the door manually it moves fine. how can I readjust it so the opener works again. any help would be greatly appreciated.
What is the opener doing or not doing?
 
  #15  
Old 07-07-11, 04:09 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: london, ontario, canada
Posts: 9
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I have the very same issue. The opener hums but won't open the door. The door is free and very easy to lift. I recently had the torsion spring replaced. This deal started about 2 months later - hums, won't open. If I leave it for a couple of days it opens again for a few days then hum, won't open. I've checked the path along the chain, free of anything that might catch. I've checked the sensors, even moved them and re-aligned them, still does the same thing. One thing I've noticed from these posts is that people state the door should open manually and stay in the position I leave it in? When I open mine manually, it falls (slowly) to the ground. I have what appears to be an older model Home Depot opener? One other thing I noticed is that the small green LED, for the receiver?, is flashing. The door operates the same whether I use the remote or the hardwired button. Does this mean my opener's on the way out? There's no grinding or screeching when the opener does work, very quiet now with the new spring. Thanks a bunch!
 
  #16  
Old 07-07-11, 07:13 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 212
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Random flashing of that LED is normal. It sounds like you may have a start capacitor that is going bad. A model number would help.
 
  #17  
Old 07-20-11, 03:24 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: london, ontario, canada
Posts: 9
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by figpickle View Post
Random flashing of that LED is normal. It sounds like you may have a start capacitor that is going bad. A model number would help.
Sorry for the late reply... it's a Home Hardware Home Builder system (The Protector System 1/2 HP). I can't find a model number specifically but the part number is 41A4252-7B - actually, that would be the logic board on the opener I'm guessing (after a little googling ). I'm not sure where to find the model number? There's a panel on the back, the logic board, but it only has the part number, FCC number and a Canada number listed. I can't see a specific model number anywhere?
 

Last edited by rockstar(cf); 07-20-11 at 03:30 PM. Reason: wrong info...
  #18  
Old 07-21-11, 06:47 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 212
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
The model number should be on the end opposite the logic board but we now know it is a Chamberlain opener by the part number you gave. The start capacitor lies next to the motor and is available at any good door service company in the yellow pages.
 
  #19  
Old 07-21-11, 04:02 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: london, ontario, canada
Posts: 9
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by figpickle View Post
The model number should be on the end opposite the logic board but we now know it is a Chamberlain opener by the part number you gave. The start capacitor lies next to the motor and is available at any good door service company in the yellow pages.
Many Thanks, I appreciate the help.
 
  #20  
Old 03-07-12, 03:02 PM
Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
same humming but not gears

Glad I found this thread,

I have the same humming and no movement issue.
I took the opener apart. The motor shaft seemed stuck, with all the gears off it would still just humm.

I turned it by hand a few times by hand, that got it going but was very noysy. After a few runs it was stuck again.
Based on this, can any one guess if the motor is hosed, or could there be some bad shaft bearing?

Thanks!
 
  #21  
Old 03-08-12, 01:29 PM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 212
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sounds like it could be a bearing problem.
 
  #22  
Old 08-05-13, 09:03 AM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
legacy garage opener - similar problem

hello all, I'm experiencing a similar problem: the opener makes a humming noise and doesn't open the door at first. If I pull down the manual release it then works again, and will even open and close the door multiple times. However, if I leave it for 15 minutes and come back again, I experience the same problem. Any help?
 
  #23  
Old 08-29-13, 06:34 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 16
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
if your trolley is not jammed against the 5/16 bolt then it's the motor capacitor. half the time if the capacitor is bad it will show signs of leaking oil. if it's jammed against the bolt i usually take the cover off and a pair of channel locks to turn the motor shaft (short stub shaft opposite end of worm gear) a few turns to unjam it from the bolt.

after you unjam it, clean the limit switches with a razor knife so they make good contact. older limits were copper and they would oxidize over time. humid climates especially. basically the door/trolley has to stop before hitting the bolt. oxidized or bad limits will cause the trolley to jam.
 
  #24  
Old 09-03-13, 05:35 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Garage Door Opener Hums for 3 seconds, then goes silent

I have a Liftmaster Garage Door opener Model 1265LM. It was not operating two weeks ago; I would get two clicks out of the unit and LED would flash 5 times but no door movement. I unhooked the carriage and the door would operate fine manully.

In reading previous posts, I determined the board was shot and replaced it. Now the unit only hums for three seconds, then stops with still the LED flashing 5 times.

The carriage is next to the door, not the stop bolt. One side of the chain is extremely tight, the other sags. The capacitor looks fine. The plastic gears were replaced 3 years ago and look fine.

If I unloosen the carriage, the side with the sagging chain will just sag more. I'd like to remove the chain and see if the motor will run but the chain is so tight I can't get it to move. There is no 'stub' on the other side of the motor to turn the motor by hand.

Any help to further diagnose would be appreciated.
 
  #25  
Old 09-04-13, 06:34 PM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 2
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
my trolley is jammed on the other end at the door not the bolt. There is no way I can turn the motor shaft as there is not enough 'stub' sticking our the motor to get a channel lock on. I'd like to at least be able to move the trolley and/or get some slack in the chain so I can see if it's the motor or capacitor.

Is there a way I can check the capacitor without getting my butt fried?
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: