New Garage Door Opener and Contract Installation

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  #1  
Old 12-30-09, 01:12 PM
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New Garage Door Opener and Contract Installation

Here is my situation: I currently have a 1/2hp Liftmaster (Model: 41A4252-6D) and the circuit board is most likely bad. It turns on and off on it's own in the middle of a cycle. I have replace several parts on the opener over the years. I have since just purchased a new opener, a Sears Craftsman 3/4hp, (Model# 53990). The contractor come out today and says my springs are not right. I just had the springs replaced by a very reputable company about two years ago and they have a BB rating of a A+ since 1992. This new contractor is telling me to turn in the garage door opener I just bought and then let him install 2 new springs (for $230 +$75 for the circuit board) and a new circuit board. I'm able to lift the door (when disconnected) with two/three fingers. Does this sound like the door is crashing like I was told by the contractor? What should I expect to lift the door when disconnected from the opener? Should the springs do all the work/load? Any advice is most welcome!
 

Last edited by cjacob; 12-30-09 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 12-30-09, 01:38 PM
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He's probably scamming you....call Sears and ask for a new installer or return the opener and call a garage door company....though that may be more costly.

And just so you know...the Sears model you bought is probably made by the same company.

btw...he's not a contractor...he's a contracted installer...he has a license and insurance...but that really doesn't mean much.
 
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Old 12-30-09, 01:46 PM
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If you can lift the door that easily and if it will stay about waist high when you remove your hand you don't need new springs. If you paid Sears for the install I would call them and explain what is going on. If not, get another contractor.
 
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Old 12-30-09, 02:19 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I will check to see if the garage door stays put at about waist high. QQ,,,how many turns of the springs is normal? To balance the door...is it normal for one spring to have more turns then the other?
 
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Old 12-30-09, 02:34 PM
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Well...no...the springs should be pretty close...there may be some difference due to manufacturing tolerances...but within 1+- turn of each other would prob be acceptable.

Number of turns all depends on size, weight, construction...yada yada yada...

Why don't you call the company that did the work before......if you have an existing opener...its probably less than 1 hrs work.
 
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Old 12-30-09, 02:45 PM
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OK, I'll do that. So this could be a spring adjustment...maybe an additonal turn. If the spring is not broken then it's just an ajustment?
 
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Old 12-30-09, 02:59 PM
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Well...you said the door operated normally...if it does..it might help to have it balanced...but much of a door install is experience and adjusting to the dwelling.

You seem to have kind of gone off track...if the door is operating smoothly and as was mentioned earlier (stopping in the middle..etc)...then there is no reason to not install the opener.

I dealt with a few scam installers...and I wouldn't put up with their crud.
 
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Old 12-30-09, 03:16 PM
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OK. what I mean to say is if the door is at waist high and it hangs there OK. If I push it down should it go down? or should there be resistance the closer it gets to the floor?
 
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Old 12-30-09, 03:20 PM
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There will be a little yes...you are putting more tension on the springs...
As long as it doesn't slam down or shoot up after it gets past the middle 1/2 ( as in 1/4- 1/2-1/4....)of the opening...shouldn't be an issue.
 
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Old 12-30-09, 03:52 PM
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Thanks! So if I push ir down after it is hanging at the 1/2 level and it slams the ground then the springs are worn? I would assume the springs should last years 10~20yrs? They are two years old..or do they need tightening?
 
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Old 12-31-09, 02:35 PM
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If the door stays at waist to chest high when you release it, it will not slam down. It is balanced. Why don't you call Sears and have them install the opener? Get away from this contractor that has you all confused.
 
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