liftmaster 1260lm craziness


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Old 01-18-11, 08:26 AM
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liftmaster 1260lm craziness

The door wouldn't close by itself - I determined the safety sensors were inop.

I bought new sensors from the local guy off the liftmaster website. I removed the existing bell wire and visually checked every inch. I rewired all connections per the online manual using the new sensors. I tested the unit with sensors 3" apart and both the wall control plus remote worked flawlessly to open and close the door normally. I attached the sensors to the brackets and stapled the bell wires with low-voltage staples. The sensors show a steady green light which I can break with my foot, so they are working (??). The wall control stopped working. I bought a cheap, lighted, door-bell-looking button and the door will open fine. But I can't convince the door to close unless I hold the wall control button down. I opened the door, unplugged the unit and let sit for 60 minutes. Plugged it back in, cleared all remotes, then tried to lower the door with the wall button. The door starts to travel then reverses. The rear light bulb flashes 10 times (front light bulb socket is unhappy so I removed the bulb). The door will close if I hold the cheap, lighted, door-bell-looking button down. What am I missing?!?!?! Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 01-18-11, 09:21 AM
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Here is a link to the Liftmaster site and a copy of the installation/instruction manual. It does sound like a wiring problem with the sensors - unless the control board is bad. Go over the instructions and be sure all of your wiring is on the correct terminals and the alignment is correct.

http://www.liftmaster.com/consumerwe...s/114A1915.PDF
 
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Old 01-18-11, 09:36 AM
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Also...look at the lights on the sensors when the button is first pushed (a helper is an advantage). I have seen installs where the initial vibration of the door starting to move caused the sensors to momentarily mis-align if they were not perfectly centered. If the sensor LED even flickers..the door will reverse.

If you have a multimeter..you can check the wires for continuity and shorts..just to be sure.

Also, make sure all plugs and connectors are securely seated inside the motor head unit.
 
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Old 01-18-11, 02:58 PM
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goldstar - thx for confirming I have the right manual
gunguy45 - good tips - I will try then circle back
 
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Old 02-03-11, 01:02 PM
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I checked the sensors (with a helper) and the lights never even flicker. I bought new bell wire (all they had was 18g - an upgrade, right ...) and installed that -- same thing. Unit works flawlessly except auto-close, but sensors don't seem to be the problem????. So now I'm in for 2 sensors, 2 remotes, a new wall button, new bell wire ...

gunguy45: How do I "... make sure all plugs and connectors are securely seated inside the motor head unit ..."?

Thanks again guys
 
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Old 02-05-11, 06:26 AM
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You'll have to take the cover off the motor...normally just a few screws and maybe a clip or tab. Then just check any plugs or card edge connectors.

Starting to sound like the control board is bad...not getting the signal from the sensors.
 
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Old 02-09-11, 01:04 PM
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Will do. Will let you know.

BTW - 'Starting to sound like the control board is bad...not getting the signal from the sensors.' I called the guy who sold me all the parts (again, got him from chamberlain dealer site) and he said 'if the board was bad you wouldn't get any response from the transmitters or wall button' -- does this track with your experience? Perhaps a better question is can a board be bad and the only symptom is no signal from sensors?
 
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Old 02-10-11, 06:56 AM
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I'm no expert on these...but if the control board has a fault of some sort where an IC is locked to a "blocked door sensor" state, everything else would function just as you describe, I believe.

If reseating all plugs and boards doesn't do it...I'd have to look at the board...thats just me.

Have you tried calling the manufacturer tech support? Prob out of warranty I imagine.
 
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Old 02-12-11, 05:50 PM
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Smile Closing force adjustment required.

Have you tried turning the closing force higher? Its possible your door thinks something is in the way.
Slowly turn the closing force higher and try each time. I believe that was the problem all along.
 
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Old 03-23-11, 03:42 PM
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I adjusted the closing force and nada. A buddy suggested I remove the sensor eyes, put them on bricks, and see what happens - voila! Gunguy45's initial reply mentioned this, but since the bleepin' light doesn't even flicker I figured this isn't it ...

It now works flawlessly - I just have to figure out how to mount it to something that doesn't vibrate.

Thanks to all who took the time to reply. Cheers!
 
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Old 07-03-12, 04:52 PM
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Remove from mounts and try it out

I also tried the remove the senor from mounts and put them on something else method and it worked! Thank you!

I had previously already tried tightening them and re-aligning them a few times and nothing. For some reason, I removed them from the mounts, set them on something else, aligned them, and tried closing it and it worked no problem. I reattached them to their mounts, just like they were before and now it closes each time.
 
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Old 07-04-12, 02:21 PM
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The information the guy gave you about your remotes not working is wrong.

Check for 5vdc between terminals 2 and 3 on the rear of the motor unit. If there is no voltage or if it is greater than 6vdc the logic board is bad.
 
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Old 07-20-12, 12:24 PM
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Clip on photoeyes for Liftmaster

Anytime that light flashes 10 times, that is the error code for your safety sensors. If the door reverses while going down and the lights don't flash, you have a force issue. Holding the wall button is the override to the safety sensors.

When you removed the sensors from the track it began to work, so this tells me 1 of 2 things. The tracks are too tight against the door and are flexing outward when the door closes, or the photoeyes aren't seated correctly in their brackets. You can adjust them with the wing nut so they face more towards the front or back of the bracket. If your tracks are flexing when the door comes down, adjust them so that there is about a knuckle worth of roller stem between the hinges and track.
This is very common and a reason for many professional company callbacks. You can either mount the eyes on the wall by the track, using something to space them away from the wall (a 2x4 or something) or you can adjust the track so the door isn't moving the track when it operates.
 
 

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