Garage Door Won't Stay Closed!

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Old 05-30-11, 09:42 PM
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Garage Door Won't Stay Closed!

My garage door has a mind of it's own. You push the button to close or open and sometimes it will go all the way up or down but usually it will only travel a few feet and stop or reverse directions. I thought it was in the safety settings in the lifter, but that had no effect.

The door has been in service for about 15 years. The motor is a Lift Master 1/2 H.P. and the roller wheels on the door appear to be worn out. I have sprayed garage door lubricant on the wheels and it will usually work correctly for a short while. For that reason, I am thinking that what I need to do is replace the rollers & it should operate smoothly & freely. That way the lifter will not be fooled into thinking that the door is hitting something.

Does that sound reasonable or should I be looking for something else before spending the funds to replace the rollers?

Thanks
Ben
 
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Old 05-31-11, 05:40 AM
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If this is a fairly new problem, you are on the right track with replacing the rollers. The door is binding and the opener is set to exert a set amount of downward force on the door. This downward force can be adjusted but since the trouble has started after 15 years, a door tune up sounds needed.

You can also check things by disconnecting the door from the opener (red rope) and opening it by hand to see how it is binding.
 
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Old 05-31-11, 07:04 AM
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Garage Door Won't Stay Closed!

The problem is not new. It has done this for 6+ months. I have released the door & it moves relatively smoothly. I do not feel any inconsistent or major drags at any point. The 90 deg curve at the top is naturally the roughest. The interesting point is that the door stops or reverses at any/all points from when the top panel passing the curve to 6" from the ground. It also hits the ground & goes up about 6-12 inches. I get the feel that the lift motor is confused. Also, I have noticed that several neighbors leave their doors are about 6" from the ground & assumed that they were leaving an air gap. Is this an age issue with garage door opener/closers? What signs would indicate that the rollers must be replaced? I am trying to identify a direction (rollers vs closer adjustment/replacement, other).
Thanks
Ben
 
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Old 05-31-11, 10:02 AM
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Also, I have noticed that several neighbors leave their doors are about 6" from the ground & assumed that they were leaving an air gap.
Not sure about yours but my 21 year old doors have a second set of holes in the track about 6" from closed. That way you can have the door open a little and still be locked. I do that sometimes if the floor is damp from humidity. Always wondered why they don't have a set of holes in the fully open position so you can lock it open whilst changing springs.

You might want to give the rollers and pulleys a bit of oil, especially the ones near the wall if you have stretch springs along the track.
 
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Old 05-31-11, 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by bfp1984 View Post
The problem is not new. It has done this for 6+ months. I have released the door & it moves relatively smoothly. I do not feel any inconsistent or major drags at any point. The 90 deg curve at the top is naturally the roughest. The interesting point is that the door stops or reverses at any/all points from when the top panel passing the curve to 6" from the ground. It also hits the ground & goes up about 6-12 inches. I get the feel that the lift motor is confused. Also, I have noticed that several neighbors leave their doors are about 6" from the ground & assumed that they were leaving an air gap. Is this an age issue with garage door opener/closers? What signs would indicate that the rollers must be replaced? I am trying to identify a direction (rollers vs closer adjustment/replacement, other).
Thanks
Ben
If it has done this in the last 6 months out of 15 years I would still categorize it is "new" If it rolls pretty well by hand maybe just increase the force a little bit. On the back or side of the opener there should be some adjustment knobs for down and up force. (be careful because there may also be travel adjustment knobs) Turn which ever one you need (I'm guessing down force) a little bit at a time until the door goes all the way down on it own.

BTW - did you ever try holding the button on the entire downward travel. That bypasses the "safeties".
 
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