Craftsman opener power kicks off?


  #1  
Old 04-29-12, 12:14 PM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Exclamation Craftsman opener power kicks off?

Craftsman
1/2 HP, 120V, 6 AMP
Model: 139.53985D

History: A few weeks ago, it started not shutting all the way. Usually another bump of the remote or garage switch would close it. First thing I looked at was the chain itself, made a slight adjustment but no noticeable improvement.

It kept happening so I examined the sensors, and cleaned off the dust, ect. This actually seemed to make things better, but every now and then it would just stop again.

Lately it's been stopping and you'd have to wait for it to reset before trying again. Only now when it reset the instant you hit the button it would die again.

Plus Today I discovered that if I tap the overhead unit's box the light on the garage switch would come back on and power was available.

Sometimes it will close all the way, but usually it just starts for a second and then stops. You'd have to keep tapping the box for it to close completely. I disconnected power, inspected all the wires and plugs and didn't notice anything being loose or frayed. I also looked at the gears and they all look fine.

What could it be?
 

Last edited by ALUCARD; 04-29-12 at 12:51 PM.
  #2  
Old 04-29-12, 05:35 PM
P
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,265
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
I had to repair a door that was stopping. Finally, when I greased the rail, all was well.

That's the short version of the story but it might be all you need.
 
  #3  
Old 04-30-12, 03:23 AM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 943
Received 42 Upvotes on 41 Posts
I believe your circuit board is failing, do you know how old the opener is? if more thsn ten years I would put money towards a new opener.
 
  #4  
Old 04-30-12, 06:49 PM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Pulpo, I greased the rails a few months ago and that helped travel, but that doesn't explain why I lose and gain power simply by tapping the box.

Doorman, the opener has a manufacture date 7 years old. It came with a older house that we bought in 2008, so it's got at least 4 years of use, max of 7 if the family before us installed it in 2005.

How much does a logic board run if I install it myself? Or better still to get another opener?

Thank guys.
 
  #5  
Old 05-01-12, 07:38 AM
F
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 187
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
I would pull the logic board and check for loose connections on the printed circuit. This is a fairly common problem.
 
  #6  
Old 05-17-12, 10:59 PM
A
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2012
Posts: 3
Upvotes: 0
Received 0 Upvotes on 0 Posts
Replaced Opener, new problem.

Update:

So I got a new opener, same model - whole unit for $70. I installed it and even with the door released it will travel about a foot and reverse to it's original position. Light on box flashes 5 times, which is supposed to mean RPM sensor? The guy I bought it from insisted that he tested the unit and it worked fine - I tried adjusting the up and down limits and well as the up and down force and it doesn't change anything. Would it be possible for the RPM sensor to be knocked loose or not work due to dust or something? What can I do? I could also try replacing the RPM sensor from my old unit, no idea if it even works though.
 
  #7  
Old 05-18-12, 01:26 PM
F
Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: USA
Posts: 187
Upvotes: 0
Received 1 Upvote on 1 Post
It's probably the RPM sensor board. The one out of your old opener will work.
 
  #8  
Old 06-13-12, 06:51 AM
D
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 522
Upvotes: 0
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
Have similar problem with my craftsman 1/2HP garage door opener, Belt Drive model#139.53964SRT, Manufactured 04/00. I installed this after we built house in 2000. We always enter/exit through garage so gets lots of use. one day light shut off and opener didn't work, just "clicked" a few times when I pushed button. light wouldn't work either. after opening the case, light came on and opener worked. put case back on, didn't work. a few light taps (fonzie method) and the light came back on, and worked for 2-3 weeks straight. This morning stopped working, will open cover and check circuit, maybe give a shot of air to clean dust...

Given that it is 12 years old, should I just replace? next question, I bought 2 openers in 2000, never installed on other door, still in box. Can I expect this to operate as new, since it is still in original packaging? was going to just swap out the opener and leave the belts, drive rods, etc. in place from old opener.
 
  #9  
Old 06-13-12, 07:35 AM
G
Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hamilton County, Ohio
Posts: 3,927
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes on 2 Posts
Your "backup " opener should be good as new. No use by date, as on a carton of milk.
 
  #10  
Old 06-14-12, 06:53 AM
D
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 522
Upvotes: 0
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
Still curious as to what the "clicks" are when I push the opener button. Almost like it clicks on, then off, and on and off again - 4 clicks. there is also a little red button on the unit under the light bulb housing with a green light next to it, either on, or flashes 5 times when I press the red button. The green light is part of the circuit board.
 
  #11  
Old 06-14-12, 08:41 AM
G
Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hamilton County, Ohio
Posts: 3,927
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes on 2 Posts
Check your instruction manual. I suspect that the blinking light is related to the programming of your remotes. Also the manual should have model specific trouble shooting hints.
 
  #12  
Old 06-14-12, 01:04 PM
D
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 522
Upvotes: 0
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
I did see a link listing what all the blinks mean, and 5 blinks means either RPM sensor (when door moves 6-8" or the logic board. decided to just replace unit.

Just swapped out the old opener for the new one, using the existing rail. Since the directions for programming the keyless entry require the keypad to be next to the wall button, I decided to just use the new keypad. door WAS working fine, except the keypad would only allow the door to shut, but not open... then removed the keypad from the wall outside, and while holding it different ways it would sometimes work, then sometimes not. The door then started to move only 6" or so then stop. sounds like RMS sensor?? Then the door stopped moving altogether. lights remained on, but with prior unit I just removed the lights did NOT come on, just heard clicking. Still hear the clicking. Also motor housing felt warm, maybe b/c I was trying to get the keypad to work and giving the opener a workout?? I unplugged and plugged back in to reset...

ok, after 20 minutes, the door started to open, went about 3 feet and stopped...no blinking lights, opener lights remained on, just stopped. housing still feels warm, and almost like a burning smell, hope I am not burning out the motor. almost like the motor is working extremely hard to open the door. I will check the door itself, i did just lubricate the rollers, but the door was a little banged up - my wife ran into it with her truck, but that was about 4 years ago...It is a single garage door, uninsulated, so it's not incredibly heavy.

could the tension be too tight???
 
  #13  
Old 06-14-12, 01:19 PM
G
Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hamilton County, Ohio
Posts: 3,927
Upvotes: 0
Received 2 Upvotes on 2 Posts
Pull the opener release cord and open and close the door by hand. It should work easily and should have a balance point about halfway open. If it is hard to open, you either need a tension adjustment or something is broken or binding.

Spring problems would also explain the door closing but not wanting to open.
 
  #14  
Old 06-14-12, 01:25 PM
D
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 522
Upvotes: 0
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
Ok, let me clarify. When the door would only close and not open with the wireless keypad, the handheld (car) remote worked fine. It was almost like the little antenae wasn't in the right spot when the door was closed...kind of crazy, as the old one worked fine. going to check out the door now
 
  #15  
Old 06-14-12, 02:04 PM
D
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 522
Upvotes: 0
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
door seems fine, re-programmed the OLD keypad and re-installed it. Checked the keypad battery, full charge. Very strange...when the battery compartment is all closed up, door won't open, and sometimes closes. With the batter cover off and the 9-volt battery kind of hanging out, the door opens AND closes....think I am going insane!!
 
  #16  
Old 06-25-12, 06:11 AM
D
Member
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Jackson, NJ
Posts: 522
Upvotes: 0
Received 3 Upvotes on 3 Posts
Latest dilemna: Wireless keypad seems to work pretty consistently now to open and close the door with master code...however, with the temporary passcode, door only closes and doesn't open. Tried re-programming the wirelss keypad with the console per instructions, still won't work properly. And also strange, system won't let me program in a new temporary code....the light is supposed to blink after I enter the main password and the * key, but nothing happens...any ideas??
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: