Epoxy seal garage floor

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  #1  
Old 09-05-12, 08:47 PM
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Epoxy seal garage floor

Looking for some advice regarding garage epoxy floor sealers? I want to seal my floor but have some questions.

Currently:
- Floor has some kind of brown paint covering the whole floor. Doesn't look like a sealer though
- Paint is chipping in areas
- I have dripped other types of paint on the floor while doing some home repairs (Kind of why I want to seal it)
- There are some spots in the floor where the concrete has a divot in it. None are real big (quarter size), but none the less there are a few.
- In some areas the footings are raised about 6 inches along the wall, and out a few inches. Mikes like a street "curb".
- There is a a separator along the edges I'm assuming for some movement in the floor and walls.
- Walls and ceiling are all drywalled and closed

Questions:
- Will the muriatic acid be enough to clean all the paint from the floor? If not any recommendations on what to use? Or is this one of those try it and see what happens?
- Recommendations on what to do with the divots? I was told by a friend HD or Lowes sells some kind of a filler - I forget the name he used. After searching the forums I found this "Quickrete All-Crete"
- Is it recommended to clean and seal the "curb" listed above?
- Do I go right over the separated along the edge? Or up to the edge on the bottom and wall side if I decide to seal the "curbs"
- Recommendations on what epoxy brand to use?
- If I do the floor in 2 sections would it be recommended to etch the whole floor -> do one half -> when done clean (that leads to how) the undone half and finish?
- I live in SoCal so moisture really isn't an issue, but I read that the heat can have an effect on the curing of the epoxy. Does anybody have info on recommended temperatures - To hot -> to cold....yaddi yaddi yaddi.....

I have a couple pix attached of the floor.

thanx all
 
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  #2  
Old 09-06-12, 06:04 AM
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Muratic acid is not a paint stripper so you will first need to use a paint remover. You could test a area to see if a chemical stripper will work. You can also try a very powerful pressure washer with a stripping type tip and as a final resort the surface can be ground.

I would strip and prep the entire floor. As long as you have the garage empty and the tools for the job you might as well do it all.

Personally I would not coat the exposed footing but you can if you want. For ease of installation you can go over your expansion joints at the perimeter but the epoxy will probably eventually crack and flake off in that area. I usually tape over the expansion joint so when the tape is removed you have a nice, clean edge to your epoxy.

I like the solvent based epoxy coatings and have had good luck with the RustOleum Professional Epoxy Shield. It's reasonably priced compared to other commercial epoxy floor coatings and the oldest floor I've done is approaching 8 years old and still looks new. There are other brands available. RustOleum just happened to be what one of my suppliers sold so I picked it and stuck with it. I have never tried the water based floor coatings. Personally I don't know how they can stand up as well as the traditional solvent based ones and I'm not willing to try it on one of my floors.

If you do your floor during the warmer months then you may have to do it half and half. The warmer the temperature the faster the epoxy will cure and once it starts to kick/harden there is nothing you can do but stop. You can chill your epoxy cans in the fridge or freezer and mix in a bucket sitting in a drum of ice water to slow it's curing in the pot but once it hits the floor it rapidly goes to the floor's temperature.

You always want a wet edge when working. So, if you cannot do the whole floor at once I'd mask off half and have a nice straight tape line or control joint as the border between the two sections.

If you plan to use colored flakes I've found a leaf blower to be the best way to spread them. I coat the entire floor and while it is still wet (un-cured). I have a helper sprinkle the flakes into the air stream and shoot the flakes across the floor. It makes it very easy to get a uniform distribution and you can shoot them about 20 feet depending on your leaf blower. The most difficult is if shooting to a back wall where the air flow curls back but you can see where the flakes are landing and compensate accordingly.
 
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Old 09-06-12, 06:26 AM
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Like PD said, muratic acid has little or no effect on paint. Muratic acid is only effective on bare concrete, mostly for etching slick concrete so the paint coating can adhere.You say the floor is painted brown but doesn't have a sealer ?? Does the brown paint repel water?

Be sure to follow ALL of the coating manufacturer's prep instructions! The number 1 reason for coating failure is poor prep. Clean the entire floor at one time. It's ok to just paint sections at a time just make sure the unpainted sections stay clean.
 
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Old 09-06-12, 08:43 PM
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doesn't look like it repels water. I poured some on the floor, but it bubbled up a bit, but looked like it was soaking in.
 
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Old 09-07-12, 05:16 AM
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What does not look like it repels water? What did you pour on the floor (water, muratic acid, paint remover...)?
 
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Old 09-07-12, 09:26 PM
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I poured some water on top of the paint.
 
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Old 09-08-12, 04:51 AM
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If the concrete soaks up the water - it's not sealed although most any coating should repel water. The existing coating is visible in the 1st pic but the long shot pic it almost looks like bare concrete

You'll need to clean the concrete before you make any repairs or apply a new coating so I'd suggest starting there and see where it goes.
 
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Old 09-08-12, 06:20 AM
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Whatever you do, do not skimp on the surface preparation. Preparing the concrete is probably more important than which epoxy product you choose.
 
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Old 09-09-12, 11:23 AM
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Yeah the second picture doesn't look it, but the "brown paint" is on the whole floor. Looks like I'll have to plan this out a bit with steps... I went thru and cleaned up the garage a bi. I have a lot off the floor now and removed one shelving unit. I'll probably tackle this in a couple weeks when it cools here a little...

thanx all for the advice
 
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Old 04-28-13, 09:22 AM
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Talking preparation is the key

pilot dane is right

preparation is the key as long as you do the right garage floor preparation for epoxy coating you will have a long lasting and enduring coating. But like anything worth while it requires effort and hard work.
 

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Old 12-07-13, 06:05 PM
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I know this is an older post, but if you still visit I was curious what product you used and how it turned out?
 
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Old 12-08-13, 11:02 AM
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Epoxy Coating New Concrete in Garage

I have a new garage with concrete that is completely clean and cured for 6 months. Does anyone know if I still need to do the preparation? I know the manufacturer will say yes, but seems like etching in not needed?
 
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Old 12-08-13, 11:52 AM
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Welcome to the forums Eric!

An acid wash will open up the pores of the concrete so the coating can get a better bond. Was there any type of sealer applied to the concrete after it was finished?
 
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Old 12-08-13, 12:46 PM
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diamond grinding for paint removal,,, most rental shops have floor buffers w/diamond grinding attachments,,, use a 4" or 7" hand grinder for edges,,, threaded diamond cup wheels are cheaper on eBay

most guys grind ( 80 or 100grit ) to achieve uniform surface, better product adhesion, & getting done faster - no power washing, acid, neutralizing, scrubbing, rinsing, or drying,,, 2car garage = 2 men - 2d,,, 1st d, jnt/crk/spall reprs, grind, squeegee & backroll epoxy base coat, broadcast full vinyl flake; 2nd d, rake & vac loose chips, light sanding, & top w/urethane coat

IF you need spall/jnt repairs, suggest rapid set - fast, strong, & workable.

friend of mine buys apron/vest kits for his garage then redoes the floor every yr ( wtr-based epoxies ) ,,, i did ours 9 yrs ago - nothing since,,, expect we'll get another 11 easily - why 20 ? we guarantee our work that long

use the spike overshoes ! its difficult buying specialty materials at ANY apron/vest store,,, all we get there is 6mm plastic, bagged conc mix, & foam brushes,,, pour out your epoxy in cornrows - squeegee - backroll after outgassing - broadcast chips,,, & BEWARE WATER-BASED EPOXIES !
 
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Old 12-09-13, 11:31 AM
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Hello Eric, I have a new home as well and want to put down and epoxy coating on it. That is why I asked earlier how the floor turned out for the person who asked all the questions originally.

I found a good article here that tells you why you need to either acid etch or grind, even if you have a new floor. In fact there is good information about epoxy floors there. I want to do my own to save some money but I'm not sure if I should make this a DIY project or not.

Have you chosen what brand or kind of epoxy to use yet? I was looking at the Rustoleum kits but I'm thinking that I might want something better now. I'm just worried that I might mess it up doing it myself.
 
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Old 12-13-13, 05:25 AM
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impo, ANY epoxy kits sold by apron/vest/paint stores are the quality range btm end as they cater to h/o's & diy'ers who are well-known & notorious for being cheap
 
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Old 12-13-13, 01:31 PM
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impo, ANY epoxy kits sold by apron/vest/paint stores are the quality range btm end as they cater to h/o's & diy'ers who are well-known & notorious for being cheap
That is the impression that I've gotten after reading up more about epoxy floors. Thanks.
 
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Old 12-14-13, 09:21 AM
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any good stuff's about the same in in performance & pricing,,, over the yrs, we've mainly used eliteCrete, florock, & polymax,,, when it was time for our garage floor, we diamond ground 1st then used polymer-modified eC for slope & elevation change ( job leftovers ), ' roadware ' 10min epoxy for crack sealing, ' polymax ' for base, finish, & urethane top coat ( supplier's close ), quartz border & full-chip parking area for car, trk, & FYK BMW bike ,,, apron/vest stores supplied chip brushes & contractor trash bags
 
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Old 02-22-14, 09:19 AM
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Sorry all I know this is old... I got stuck on other projects. Turns out the things I want to do take a back a seat to what the wife wants... I didn't see that in the manual before I got married..

But again I'm hoping to do this soon. We're expecting twins in July and I have a feeling my time might be a bit cramped when they get home...

So no pix or stories... Hopefully soon..


ak
 
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Old 07-30-15, 01:15 PM
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Well a couple years later (NEVER LOSE THE DREAM)I got my garage floor done. Was not an easy chore. I would do some things different... But as I type half of my garage is back in..

Process:
- To get the paint off the floor we Rented a Edco Concrete Grinder, and bought a diamond drum for my hand grinder for the edges. Corners were a bit hard. I tried using my Oscillating tool with a diamond triangle tip. That didn't work that well..
- The paint was on harder than we expected.. I'm assuming that the previous owner put down garage sealant paint, but not epoxy over top... I don't know.. We had to do some touch up grinding the next day before painting.
- Rolling was ok. A little circus with my dad and nephew trying to sprinkle the coloring chips, mom behind telling us all we're doing it wrong, and me trying to keep things moving so I can finish before the paint dried.
- The amount of paint, and epoxy was just not enough. I bought 2 of each (paint and epoxy) just in case we needed more - we did. We had to touch up the paint the day after cause there were spots that I rolled, but didn't cover 100%. The Remix is just a bit off color. If you look close you can see where we re-painted.. But I don't care.. Same with Epoxy - we had to touch up in places that we missed. The Epoxy was virtually impossible (for us) to see where we rolled. Ended up seeing a spot in the center we missed. Just so happen to be the same place the pan of Epoxy was sitting when we did it...lol we had to put heads to the floor to see what was smooth and not.
- I used the Behr sprinkles and non-stick sand stuff.. worked fine
- We let the paint dry a full week before Epoxy, and the Epoxy close to 80 hours before putting things back on.

Issues:
- Weather: We're in the middle of a "End of Days" drought in SoCal. The weekend we decide to do this we get monsoonal rain and humidity.. Geesh - yeah I know I could, and should have postponed this. But I had dad and nephew in town visiting (FREE LABOR).
- Grinding was kind of a pain. Found our garage floor isn't smooth which led to a lot of touch ups with the hand grinder.. Not sure if that's normal or not..

Parts:
- Grinder: Classic-Style Single-Disc Floor Grinder - EDCO
- Off the Shelf Drum for hand grinder
- Floor covering: I used Epmar Kemiko Epoxy. Was 2 containers to mix for paint and 2 to mix for epoxy.. Was not cheap... I think if I had to do this again I'd use the Rust-oleum product..
 
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Old 07-30-15, 02:31 PM
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Thanks for the update looks nice
 
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