Stripped Screws On Garage Door Arm Mount

Reply

  #1  
Old 03-06-13, 04:56 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Stripped Screws On Garage Door Arm Mount

I cam home from work the other day and my garage door wouldn't open. I went in the garage door and saw the arm that attaches the door to the trolly haging down off the trolly. The bolts that were holding the garage door had stipped out (see attached picture). I'm wondering if there is an easy way to fix this. I can't access the open area behind the holes as everything is capped off. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Attached Images  
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 03-06-13, 05:36 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,107
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
You need to buy a reinforcement (garage door opener mounting) bracket, after you verify that the door is properly balanced and operates smoothly. About $15 or so at a home center.

Openers should never be attached to the stamped sheet metal framing of the door.

It was installed incorrectly initially.
 
  #3  
Old 03-06-13, 06:48 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks GunGuy. That was what I suspected. I can open and close the door pretty easily so I think the door is in good shape.
 
  #4  
Old 03-07-13, 07:56 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,107
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Looking again...how far below the top of the door is the mounting point? It looks pretty low based on the amount of door panel above the strut.

Check the manufacturers instructions but I think it should be about even with the top rollers which is normally about 3-4" from the top of the door.

This is a sectional roll up door isn't it? Not a one piece swingout?
 
  #5  
Old 03-07-13, 09:33 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thanks for checking again!

Yeah it is a sectional roll-up door. I have to check when I get home if it's on the top panel or the second from the top panel. I'll take a wide shot when I get home and get it posted.

Thanks f
 
  #6  
Old 03-07-13, 04:12 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
a lot of stile showing over the strut. where the OP J-arm attaches to the top section of your door shouldnt be much over 3" below the rollers in that section. the idea is that the OP lifts the door from the top of the door, below the strut.
 
  #7  
Old 03-07-13, 08:24 PM
BridgeMan45's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 3,196
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
You can buy a cheap, stamped steel door bracket as gunguy suggested (but plan on spending close to $25 for one, as per my visit to Home Depot yesterday where I saw one displayed), or you can easily make your own using a 2 x 6 scab and a few bucks worth of screws. Make it a foot or so long, mounted horizontally to the lateral strut flange and vertical frame member, with long sheet metal screws. Predrill the 2 x 6 to prevent splitting, and drill the holes at an upward angle at the strut flange to gain enough edge distance. Make sure the screws at the strut aren't too long, or they'll poke through the outside door surface.

I've lost count of the number of such "brackets" that I've installed over the years, usually to help out relatives/friends/acquaintances having the same problem you are. An added advantage of using wood for such an attachment member is that wood is one of the few building materials that readily absorbs energy from impacts (because of its cellular internal structure), such as that from the sudden yanking of the door by the opener.
 
  #8  
Old 03-08-13, 05:43 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So here are a couple of pictures. The one is of the broken door. I circled the previous mount holes. The other one is the other door in the garage which is also clearly mounted incorrectly but I wanted to give you guys a point of reference. BTW, I looked and verified that the doors are both Clopay.
 
Attached Images   
  #9  
Old 03-08-13, 08:53 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So I was looking at the Clopay reinforcement bracket and I am thinking there might be an issue using it given the large strut that spans my door. Thoughts?
 
  #10  
Old 03-08-13, 10:24 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,107
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
As Darren said, I think the mounting point is too low. Can't quite see where the top roller is...but I'm guessing it is directly in line with the strut?

My strut looks exactly like yours (I have a Clopay door as well...looks like the same model), but is mounted at the very top of the door where those other 2 holes are on yours. My opener is then mounted to the reinforcement bracket at about the position of your existing strut directly in line with the top rollers. The bracket is mounted under the strut. The strut flexs enough for that through I had to use longer screws.

Regarding the price...surprisingly, I got mine cheaper than the $25 quoted by ordering direct from Clopay. I think 5 yrs ago it was about $9+shipping. Didn't know HD was charging so much now, when I worked there 7 yrs ago they were right about $15. I think he may have seen the wide bracket I see on their website...which you don't really need, mine is about 1/2 the width. The wider bracket is really designed for their higher end models with the solid insulation and a flat interior steel skin....not the ones with the exposed metal framing.

Though bridgeman has had success with his method and I would use it on a wood door.....I'd just order the bracket, move the strut to the top and hook your opener up. You will need to adjust the arm and the up and down limits afterwards. You could also use perforated angle iron...but the bracket makes it simpler.

Go to the Clopay site and pull an instruction manual for your type door and see what they say. Garage Doors, Residential Garage Doors - Clopay
 
  #11  
Old 03-08-13, 12:42 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So I can just move the strut up with no worries?
 
  #12  
Old 03-08-13, 01:54 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,107
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Well, mine has been in that position since '05 with no issues. The top strut is mainly to support the top panel when it's on the up position, so you don't get stress fractures in the door and for operation of the GDO.

The other panels are connected via the hinges so it's not as big an issue.
 
  #13  
Old 03-08-13, 07:03 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
ok. you have a unique install. you have quick turn brackets as your top fixtures.

what you HAVE to do is buy an 8' stick of 2" pre-punched angle iron from someplace. dont buy the thin stuff, 1 1/2" will also work. youre going to make a "T" out of the angle iron and screw it to the very top of your door. center the leg of the "T" on the center stile. mount the T to the center stile and top of the door using fine thread screws, you may take one of the hinge screws out to get an idea of what youre buying. dont move the strut. mount your J-arm as far up on the vertical angle iron as possible. a 2" 5/16 bolt and 2 nuts will make a life-long J-arm connection.

ill check back from time to time for questions.
 
Attached Images  
  #14  
Old 03-08-13, 07:11 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So my vertical angle iron will be pretty short then? I figure it'll have to be.

How long should I make the cross piece?
 
  #15  
Old 03-09-13, 08:48 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
use whats left of the 8' piece.
 
  #16  
Old 03-10-13, 09:19 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So that piece that runs along the top that I need to mount the angle iron to is pretty flimsy. Are you sure it's strong enough to mount to? I almost feel like mount to the strut might be stronger. Thoughts?
 
  #17  
Old 03-10-13, 02:56 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
youll be fine. as stated use a fine thread screw and dont over tighten them. use a lag screw every 8 inches or so. dont use self tapping screws. same with the center stile.
 
  #18  
Old 03-11-13, 08:42 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Finding those matching screws to what is used on the door hing is darn hard! I can't find anything to match anywhere. I guess I can use the self-drilling version and maybe that'll work.

The angle iron is still a work in process too. None of the home improvement places have anything that will work so I've gotta check out some metal places.
 
  #19  
Old 03-11-13, 11:28 AM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,107
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
A garage door install company will probably have some screws they would give you off an old door waiting for disposal. Or try a real full service hardware store. Other than that a specialty fastener shop. I wouldn't use the self tappers.

As to the angle...the hardware store or a welding/fabrication shop.

Being in the Cleveland area, you should have no problems with a little searching.
 
  #20  
Old 03-11-13, 11:55 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Found one place for the angle iron, but they want $4/ft which seems pretty steep. Going to keep searching.

I guess I could use standard hex hed flange screws without a pointed tip (the ones in my hinges all have a pointed tip that doesn't appear to be self tapping).
 
  #21  
Old 03-11-13, 01:31 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,107
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
That price is pretty ridiculous. $12-15 (maybe $20?) for an 8' stick would be more appropriate I think. Keep looking...
 
  #22  
Old 03-11-13, 05:55 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
worst case go to Home Depot and get the 4' ers. through bolt along the top of the door with 1/4 x 20 x 1/2" nut/bolts and use self tappers on the center stile.
 
  #23  
Old 03-25-13, 12:25 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: USA
Posts: 322
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So I am getting ready to fix the door and I just realized that if I mount the J-arm higher the garage door opener will have to stop sooner. I'm assuming there is a way to adjust that on the opener right? I haven't looked yet, but wanted to check before I dug too much.
 
  #24  
Old 03-25-13, 01:06 PM
Gunguy45's Avatar
Super Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 21,107
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Depends on the opener but yes...it is adjustable either by turning some adjustment screws, electronically programming the up and down set points, or moving small micro-switches on the rail. Looks like yours will be one of the first two. Need to check the manual for the exact procedure....it needs to be followed exactly.
 
  #25  
Old 03-25-13, 07:21 PM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: USA
Posts: 95
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
limits are clear on the Sears units. left side of the powerhead, facing the door. screws adjust the up/down.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: