New Work Bench Build, Any Tips?

I've been missing a proper work bench for far too long, and have decided this is the week one is going to be built.

I have very basic carpentry skills, just enough to get me by hopefully.

I'm starting from scratch, and welcome any suggestions, ideas, and experiences.

Here's what I've got to work with;

It will be a corner workbench. There are 6"x6" posts, with 2x4's nailed towards the outside. The posts are spaced 8' long on one side, and 10' on the other side.

I've got shelving for totes above, and peg board along the two walls.

Now I need to find some plans!

 

Your skeleton plans are good. 6x6s are a little overkill, as 4x4s would suffice. I would put an intermediate post on the 10 side just for stability. Attach a 2x4 along the walls at 36" (or chosen height) and carry this around your posts as a band, holding everything together. Then install perlins front to back between the front 2x4 and back 2x4 every 16", just like you were building a horizontal wall. I like to use 2x6 decking for work benches as it is sturdy enough to bang on. If you need a smooth surface to build watches on, you can coat the 2x6's with laminated hardboard. If you use it for carpentry work, leave it nekkid.

That is one way to build one. If you need plans, there are books at the box stores that will give you visual plans with cut schedules, etc. Or you can google "work bench plans".

 

Not trying to reinvent it for you, but just in case you are considering how to install drawers or cabinets in it, I built the primary bench in my shop on a 2x4 frame, 5 legs each along the front and back, boxed in with plywood and attached doors between two sets of legs, and attached drawer rails between the remaining two sets of legs, so have two lower cabinets and two columns of drawers. I used a combination of 2x6's and 2x8's for the top, probably whatever I had at the time, that worked out to the depth what I wanted, and it has been solid as a rock for 30 some years. Otherwise, if you want it open underneath, yes, you are on the right track, but, as Chandler said, a 10' span would likely be a bit songy, and you don't need 6x6's; in fact you could double up 2x4's, in lieu of 4x4's, maybe even leaving one short on each pair, to accomodate your top stringer. You're also going to want something, maybe along the back sides, perhaps with a partial shelf, to keep your legs rigid; or you might want to consider a couple of diag's.

 

Thanks guys, great suggestions.

I realized after reading my original post, I had mis-spoken. I had described the corner of my pole barn walls, thinking I could build off of those posts for a more sturdy bench.

After thinking about it a bit more, I'm not sure if that's the way to go, versus freestanding.

Not sure what I'd like to go with for the top. 2x6's sound good. I was also thinking maybe laying a sheet of osb over a strong frame, and laying a 1/2" MDF sheet on top. I think that'd give me a smooth surface I could bang on all day.

I'd like to keep the bottom open for now, maybe add some doors later on but nothing fancy.

Also planning a 3" ledge on the back.

Going to pick up some 4x4's, 2x4's, and probably some 2x6's. I'll also price out the MDF boards.

 

MDF might work well for a bobby bench, someplace to rebuild the vacuum cleaner, rebuild a small engine, clean guns, load ammo, etc., but I would not use it for something that I might literally beat on; for "heavy" use, it is going to be hard to beat a 2x top. For double duty, you could always have a piece of Masonite or whatever to flop on there for working on small projects where a smooth, clean surface is preferrable.

 

Yeah, although I will be using it as more a hobby bench, I was thinking along the same lines as far as using 2x6's on top, and just having some kind of 'cover' when needed.

I think I will go that route.

Any thoughts on fasteners? Would you just go with 3" wood screws? Bolts? Lag screws?

 

I built my bench with 2X4 and got a discounted dinged up 1 3/4 solid core luan door for the top. One thing I would suggest it to let the top overhang a few inches so you can clamp things down to it. Also, a few coats of poly will make cleaning up spills easier.

 

My favorite work bench is the one I installed thin steel sheets on the top with the front edge bent over the front lip.
I can hammer all day long and not screw up the top surface.

 

One thing I didn't see mentioned or I missed. You don't want to nail a workbench together. Deck and/or lag screws or carriage bolts at high stress points is the way to go. Half lap joints on the support posts will also greatly increase the rigidity and strength. They will also give more under bench room for storage.

I may not mean half lap...I mean just notch the post so the horizontal member sits flush. Use glue on the joints if you don't ever intend to dismantle and move it.

I'd also suggest going to sites like Family Handyman, Pop Mech, woodworking magazines, etc and call up articles for work benches. Might give you some visual hints and ideas.

A basic work bench can be knocked together in a few hours. One that will last for years and provide all the features you will need for a beginner will take a couple of days.

 

I built a heavy-duty wood-working bench in 1976, and it's been following me around the country since then. Made the top out of flat 2 x 6s, covered with plywood and tempered Masonite, with a small section of heavy vinyl flooring (for delicate, precision work). Steel reinforced overhangs on each end support a large wood-working vise (with movable steel dogs) and a heavy steel vise. I've also permanently wired it with a 20-amp electrical circuit, with (true) 20-amp receptacles in steel junction boxes at 3 convenient locations. The entire rear of the work surface has a vertical 2 x 4 attached, with convenient holes drilled in the edge of it for various small hand tools (pliers, screw drivers, etc.) that get used a lot. The entire thing has all glued and screwed framing joints, and I also bolted it to the shop wall with heavy lags to keep it steady when I get serious with large members in the vises. Half the underside is open shelves, and the other half has a bank of custom-made drawers, including a beefy one with 5 compartments to hold common nut and bolt sizes (smallest in front).

I also made a steel working bench that sits nearby, bolted to the same wall. Top is 1/2" steel plate, with a welded frame and legs of steel angle. It's home to a bench grinder and heavy steel vise with a 6" reach.

Both work benches have the wall above them covered with painted white pegboard, for hanging various larger hand tools. I also built 2 levels of shelves above the benches, with the lower, narrow set supporting a bank of fluorescent light fixtures controlled by a wall switch. Top run of shelving is cantilevered off the wall, a full 4' wide and used for storage of seldom-used, bulky items. With a 12' ceiling, the shop begged me to not waste any space.