Garage door bounces and stops opener

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  #1  
Old 04-01-13, 07:26 PM
W
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Garage door bounces and stops opener

Have a 4 piece aluminum garage door for a 2 car garage and a Genie screw drive opener. As the 2nd piece from the top rounds the transition from vertical to horizontal on the track, the door starts to bounce and the opener stops. Any ideas as to what may be causing this?

The tension springs were just replaced last year and appear to be fine. I don't see any loose/detached rollers. When disconnected from the opener, the doors is easily opended with a little effort.

Once the opener stops, I can hit the remote to start it back down and immediatley hit it again to stop it. At that point I can hit it a third time and the door will continue up all the way.

Any help will be appreciated.

Thank!
 
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  #2  
Old 04-02-13, 10:03 AM
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Check the tracks, especially in the bend. They should be clean and free of any dirt, oil, or grease. There is an up force adjustment on the opener and you may need to tweak it up a bit.
 
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Old 04-02-13, 11:24 AM
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I have seen bouncing occur when the incorrect springs were installed, or not installed correctly.

My first recommendation is always to disconnect the arm that connects the door to the opener trolley. Raise the door about 20" and then see if it will stay in that position. Raise to about 40" and 60" and check again. A perfectly balanced door will stay in position at each of those checks. Don't worry too much if it slowly drops when lower than midpoint and slowly raises when above midpoint - it's probably close enough. My own personal spec is that it should not require more than 15 pounds of effort to raise the door from a closed position - and that it should not slam shut nor spring open from any position in its travel. If it does not conform, then the spring that has been installed is either incorrect for the application or incorrectly tensioned.

Another cause of bouncing can come from tightness in the track or roller assembly.

Once the springs have been verified correct and tensioned properly, the next issue should be cleaning and lubrication of the rollers, hinges, and other moving parts of the door, track, springs, cabling, and bearing assemblies. There are several 'how to' videos on You-Tube that will give you good advice on this.

Once these items are checked, cleaned, and adjusted properly, reconnect the arm from the door to the trolley - the door operator will now probably smooth out. If not, get back and let us know what you find. We would also like to hear how this gets resolved.
 
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Old 04-02-13, 10:04 PM
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Based on Lone Star's comments and videos I've seen on You Tube, I think my door is out of balance after performing those tests. I went ahead and lubed the rollers and checked to make sure those and hinges were secured to the door - appears that they are installed with sheet metal screws so I'm unable to screw them down real tight, but that doesn't appear to be the issue. After lubing the rollers, the door is still having the same problem.

There is some buildup on the roller axels, but the rollers appear to spin freely so I don't believe that such is causing the problem

I'm guessing I'll need to call the company that installed the tension springs - maybe there is something they will do since its my position that they should have balanced the door when they installed them. Possible that they did and the door got out of balance through normal use? If so, I'm guessing that would be the result of the tension springs slipping some???

Thanks for the input!
 
  #5  
Old 04-03-13, 06:20 PM
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remove the opener J-arm from the carriage, close the door completely. see if the carriage travels the length of the rail without fail. if this doesnt bring anything to light, re-attach the J-arm to the carriage and "be the opener". with the door closed grasp the carriage with the door attached and raise the door. look for anything binding. also be sure the inside slide lock hasnt been nudged out and is catching the track.

its a game of inspector gadget after that.
 
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Old 04-03-13, 06:25 PM
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also, dont mess with the cables. frayed cables can lead to quick and serious injury. on the T-spring door youll only lube them with spray where they attach to the bottom bracket of the door. if there is no slack in the cables when the door is fully open youre good to go.
 
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Old 04-03-13, 08:33 PM
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Darren - understand waht you're saying about detaching the J arm and seeing if the carriages will travel the length of the rail - it does. But not sure about 'being the opener'. My opener is a screw drive, so I don't beleive the carriage will move without the screw mechanism turning. What am i missing here?
 
  #8  
Old 04-04-13, 09:51 AM
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What he is saying is to disconnect the J arm from the door -usually a cotterpin and hitch bolt. Then power the opener and see if the opener operates smoothly from one end to the other. If it is okay, then reattach the J arm to the door with the hitch bolt and cotter pin.

Next, pull the release cord and grasp the j arm near the top. Pull the J arm by hand towards the opener motor - you are the motor for this test, see if the door cocks or binds when you act as the motor.

When that test is complete, close the door and reset the release.
 
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